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Chroma Blade motors...

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He decidido tomarme el tiempo para probarlo. Puede que tengas que venir a protegerme de la ira de mi mujer, que no está muy contenta conmigo ahora.😄
El GUI funciona bien con el motor desenchufado. El motor no se ha parado después de unos segundos. Lo dejé funcionar durante un rato.
Había desenchufado el Motor #1. Había suficiente cable disponible para conectar el Motor #4 al ESC del Motor #1. Eso también funcionó sin problema. El motor #4 funciona en sentido contrario a las agujas del reloj cuando se conecta normalmente al ESC #4. Funcionó en el sentido de las agujas del reloj (como se esperaba) cuando se conectó al ESC #1.

I decided to take the time to try it. You may need to come protect me from the wrath of my wife, who is not very happy with me now.😄
The GUI works fine with a motor unplugged. There was no stopping of the motor after a few seconds. I let it run for awhile.
I had unplugged Motor #1. There was enough wire available to connect Motor #4 to the Motor #1 ESC. That also worked without problem. Motor #4 runs counter clockwise when normally connected to ESC #4. It ran clockwise (as expected) when connected to ESC #1.
Hello my friend,
Sorry to hear that your wife is not very happy with your hobby.
I just tried the GUI without engine 3 as well and it works without a problem. I have tried the other engines and they work as expected.
I then switched motor 1 (in perfect condition) to motor 3 position, tested it and it responds the same as motor 3, ie erratically.
Question: does this mean that ESC 3 is failing?
Something I didn't do is to test motor 3 (supposedly damaged) in the position of motor 1.
I will do that tomorrow when I manage to get the main board out with the proper tool that I don't have right now, so I can visually check for any obvious damage, if I manage to identify the ESCs.
Greetings

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I think esc 3 is damaged, and motor 3 too (due to smoke...)
You have to check esc components as in attached picture: they are on opposite side of the motor connector on the mainboard.

Creo que esc 3 está dañado, y motor 3 también (debido al humo...)
Debe verificar los componentes esc como en la imagen adjunta: están en el lado opuesto del conector del motor en la placa base.
IMG_20211119_101731.jpg
 

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Hello my friend,
Sorry to hear that your wife is not very happy with your hobby.
I just tried the GUI without engine 3 as well and it works without a problem. I have tried the other engines and they work as expected.
I then switched motor 1 (in perfect condition) to motor 3 position, tested it and it responds the same as motor 3, ie erratically.
Question: does this mean that ESC 3 is failing?
Something I didn't do is to test motor 3 (supposedly damaged) in the position of motor 1.
I will do that tomorrow when I manage to get the main board out with the proper tool that I don't have right now, so I can visually check for any obvious damage, if I manage to identify the ESCs.
Greetings

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
"Something I didn't do is to test motor 3 (supposedly damaged) in the position of motor 1.
I will do that tomorrow..."
It is not a good idea to put Motor #3 in Motor #1 position for a test.
@Pier2162 is very correct. Motor #3 is damaged and ESC #3 is damaged. It is not possible to conclude with certainty which failure caused the other failure, but that is somewhat irrelevant to the discussion of whether to risk ESC #1. What is known is that if you try to power a damaged motor from a good ESC, the ESC will almost certainly be damaged. If you put Motor #3 on ESC #1, you will also damage ESC #1. It would also not be good to do further testing with Motor #1 on ESC #3. You know the problem exists, and further testing may damage motor #1.

ESC failures are often manifested as Mosfet failures. The erratic behavior of the motor suggests the ESC processor is having a problem. Bad ESC processors are usually the cause of the failure of the Mosfets. You can often see the Mosfet damage. You can almost NEVER see the damage to the processor. It will look completely normal.
I am not very familiar with the arrangement on the Chroma board or the part numbers for the Mosfets and processor. I will try to get a board out and look at it this morning.
@Pier2162 , do you know the component IDs for both Mosfet sides and the processor for the Chroma? Have you ever replaced them? I have not. All I can do is comment based on working with Q500 and similar ESCs.
 
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"Algo que no hice fue probar el motor 3 (supuestamente dañado) en la posición del motor 1.
Mañana lo haré..."
No es una buena idea poner el motor n. ° 3 en la posición de motor n. ° 1 para una prueba.
[USER = 26148] @ Pier2162 [/ USER] es muy correcto. El motor n. ° 3 está dañado y el ESC n. ° 3 está dañado. No es posible concluir con certeza qué falla causó la otra falla, pero eso es algo irrelevante para la discusión de si se debe arriesgar el ESC # 1. Lo que se sabe es que si intenta alimentar un motor dañado con un buen ESC, es casi seguro que el ESC resultará dañado. Si coloca el motor n. ° 3 en el ESC n. ° 1, también dañará el ESC n. ° 1. Tampoco sería bueno hacer más pruebas con el motor n. ° 1 en el ESC n. ° 3. Sabe que existe el problema y que las pruebas adicionales pueden dañar el motor n. ° 1.

Las fallas de ESC a menudo se manifiestan como fallas de Mosfet. El comportamiento errático del motor sugiere que el procesador ESC está teniendo un problema. Los procesadores ESC defectuosos suelen ser la causa del fallo de los Mosfets. A menudo se puede ver el daño de Mosfet. Casi NUNCA puede ver el daño en el procesador. Se verá completamente normal.
No estoy muy familiarizado con la disposición de la placa Chroma o los números de pieza de los Mosfets y el procesador. Intentaré sacar una tabla y mirarla esta mañana.
[USER = 26148] @ Pier2162 [/ USER], ¿conoce los ID de componentes para ambos lados Mosfet y el procesador para Chroma? ¿Los ha reemplazado alguna vez? Yo no tengo. Todo lo que puedo hacer es comentar basado en trabajar con Q500 y ESC similares.
Gracias a ambos por todo su tiempo en esta discusión.
Así que no intentaré probar el motor 3 en la posición 1.
Solo quitaré la placa para hacer una inspección visual de los ESC.
No voy a resolver nada de todos modos.
Si tuviera esta información antes, que los ESC en el Chroma Blade son parte de la placa principal, no la habría comprado.
Aún no se puede separar la campana del estator en el motor dañado 3.
Tengo una consulta final, basada en un artículo que leí sobre los ESC y su relación con las baterías: el hecho de que estaba usando baterías de 7500 mAh en lugar de las baterías originales de 5400 mAh puede haber tenido una mala influencia en el motor y el daño del ESC. ?

Thank you both for all your time in this discussion.
So I will not attempt to test motor 3 in position 1.
I will just remove the board to do a visual inspection of the ESCs.
I'm not going to figure anything out anyway.
If I had this information before, that the ESCs on the Chroma Blade are part of the main board, I would not have bought it.
Still can't separate the bell from the stator on the damaged motor 3.
I have a final query, based on an article I read about ESCs and their relationship to batteries: the fact that I was using 7500 mAh batteries instead of the original 5400 mAh batteries may have had a bad influence on the motor and ESC damage. ?

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... the fact that I was using 7500mAh batteries instead of the original 5400mAh batteries may have had a bad influence on the engine and damage from the ESC.
La batería de mayor capacidad no sería un problema para los ESC. Serían más sensibles al voltaje de la batería.
Esta imagen muestra los identificadores de los chips asociados a los ESC Chroma. Como se puede ver, había una gran dificultad para leer los números en uno de los tipos de chip. ¿Quizás alguien pueda comentar sobre la exactitud de éste?

The higher capacity battery would not be a problem for the ESCs. They would be more sensitive to the battery voltage.
This image shows the identifiers of the chips associated with the Chroma ESCs. As you can see, there was difficulty in reading the numbers on one of the chip types. Perhaps someone can comment on the accuracy of this one?

Chip ID #4.jpg
 
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La batería de mayor capacidad no sería un problema para los ESC. Serían más sensibles al voltaje de la batería.
Esta imagen muestra los identificadores de los chips asociados a los ESC Chroma. Como se puede ver, había una gran dificultad para leer los números en uno de los tipos de chip. ¿Quizás alguien pueda comentar sobre la exactitud de éste?

The higher capacity battery would not be a problem for the ESCs. They would be more sensitive to the battery voltage.
This image shows the identifiers of the chips associated with the Chroma ESCs. As you can see, there was great difficulty in reading the numbers on one of the chip types. Perhaps someone can comment on the accuracy of this one?

View attachment 26966
Well, I pulled out the main board. To the naked eye I don't see any apparent damage. I only see that it is very dirty. How can I clean it safely?
Is it possible to test a brushless motor without the ESC?
Can a battery be connected directly to the connectors (black, white, grey) of the motor?
I have checked information about it and the ESC is always present.
At this point I don't know what else to do with my Chroma Blade: maybe try to sell it as spare parts (very unlikely) or buy the board and motor 3. If I do the latter I still have the gimbal motor problem. Very onerous expense for a discontinued drone.
Regards.

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WTFDproject

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Well, I pulled out the main board. To the naked eye I don't see any apparent damage. I only see that it is very dirty. How can I clean it safely?
Is it possible to test a brushless motor without the ESC?
Can a battery be connected directly to the connectors (black, white, grey) of the motor?
I have checked information about it and the ESC is always present.
At this point I don't know what else to do with my Chroma Blade: maybe try to sell it as spare parts (very unlikely) or buy the board and motor 3. If I do the latter I still have the gimbal motor problem. Very onerous expense for a discontinued drone.
Regards.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Las opciones no son buenas, como has visto. Posiblemente encuentre otro Chroma y utilice este para las piezas.

La placa de circuito se puede limpiar con alcohol y un cepillo de dientes viejo. La limpieza puede revelar algunos daños. Los ESC que fallan suelen mostrar al menos una pequeña burbuja en el plástico.

The options are not good, as you have seen. Possibly find another Chroma and use this one for parts.
The board can be cleaned with alcohol and an old toothbrush. Cleaning may reveal some damage. Failed ESCs usually show a least a small bubble in the plastic.
 
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May be I'm wrong, 'cause picture is a little out of focus, but it seem like there's a cracked welding on the connector pin, the one circled in red in the picture.
Can you check pls?

Puede ser que me equivoque, porque la imagen está un poco desefocada, pero parece que hay una soldadura agrietada en el pin del conector, la que está rodeada de rojo en la imagen.
Puedes comprobar por favor?
IMG_20211122_085734.jpg
 
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Las opciones no son buenas, como has visto. Posiblemente encuentre otro Chroma y utilice este para las piezas.

La placa de circuito se puede limpiar con alcohol y un cepillo de dientes viejo. La limpieza puede revelar algunos daños. Los ESC que fallan suelen mostrar al menos una pequeña burbuja en el plástico.

The options are not good, as you have seen. Possibly find another Chroma and use this one for parts.
The board can be cleaned with alcohol and an old toothbrush. Cleaning may reveal some damage. Failed ESCs usually show a least a small bubble in the plastic.
I'll do it like that. You may notice something odd after cleaning.
 
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May be I'm wrong, 'cause picture is a little out of focus, but it seem like there's a cracked welding on the connector pin, the one circled in red in the picture.
Can you check pls?

Puede ser que me equivoque, porque la imagen está un poco desefocada, pero parece que hay una soldadura agrietada en el pin del conector, la que está rodeada de rojo en la imagen.
Puedes comprobar por favor?
View attachment 26996
I had not noticed it because my eyesight is not good. But my daughter did notice a kind of swelling right in that weld. I'll check with a magnifying glass.
Good observation friend.
That pin corresponds to the black wire of the connector, if I'm not mistaken. What is your function?
 
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Brushless motors are practically three-phase motors, they need 3 cables to be able to power the coils in phase and work. If a cable is missing, tension does not arrive properly to the coils, the motor does not turn.
More than a bulge in the weld, it is necessary to check that there are no cracks.
You can also check the continuity of the cable with a multimeter .

Los motores sin escobillas son prácticamente motores trifásicos, necesitan 3 cables para poder alimentar las bobinas en fase y trabajar. Si falta un cable, la tensión no llega correctamente a las bobinas, el motor no gira.
Más que una protuberancia en la soldadura, es necesario verificar que no haya grietas.
También puede comprobar la continuidad del cable con un multímetro.
 
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Helio, I made a mistake.
The correct esc is not the one I indicated but the one next to it (see image)
I messed with the installation location of the main board...
Forgive me

Helio, cometí un error.
El esc correcto no es el que he indicado sino el que está al lado (ver imagen)
Me metí con la ubicación de instalación de la placa principal ...
Perdóname

Thanks @WTFDproject
IMG_20211122_152428.jpg
 
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Helio, I made a mistake.
The correct esc is not the one I indicated but the one next to it (see image)
I messed with the installation location of the main board...
Forgive me

Helio, cometí un error.
El esc correcto no es el que he indicado sino el que está al lado (ver imagen)
Me metí con la ubicación de instalación de la placa principal ...
Perdóname

Thanks @WTFDproject
View attachment 26999
Sure?
The fault was engine 3 ...
???
 

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El tablero está al derecho en todas las fotos. Tanto @Pier2162 como yo nos confundimos. El ESC #3 es el conjunto de mosfets trasero derecho en las fotos, al igual que el Motor #3 es el motor trasero derecho cuando el dron está de pie. La pista finalmente vino cuando se dio cuenta de que el interruptor de encendido/apagado que se puede ver en las fotos está en la parte superior de la placa para el Chroma. Aun así tuve que consultar con Pier para estar seguro. He corregido la imagen en el post #26. Por favor, perdonad la confusión.

Traducción realizada con la versión gratuita del traductor www.DeepL.com/Translator

The board is right side up in all the pictures. Both @Pier2162 and I were confused. ESC #3 is the right rear set of mosfets in the pictures, the same as Motor #3 is the right rear motor when the drone is standing up. The clue finally came when it was realized the on/off switch you can see in the pictures is on the TOP of the board for the Chroma. I still had to consult with Pier to be sure. I have corrected the picture in post #26. Please forgive the confusion.
 
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Yes, sure. Engine 3 is the rear right, viewing the drone from top.

Sí, claro. El motor 3 está en la parte trasera derecha, viendo el dron desde arriba.
The ESC of motor 3 is certainly on the right side of the main board when viewed from above, but flipping the board for the photo is on the left, as is evident.
Please confirm my observation.
 

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¡Creo que estamos de acuerdo en que se confunde fácilmente! 😄
La placa está al revés cuando la sacas del dron. Pero luego le das la vuelta para hacer las fotos y vuelve a estar al derecho.

I think we can agree it is easily confused! 😄
The board is upside down when removing from the drone. But then you flip it over to take the pictures, and it is right side up again.
ESC-MOTOR #3.jpg
 
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¡Creo que estamos de acuerdo en que se confunde fácilmente! 😄
La placa está al revés cuando la sacas del dron. Pero luego le das la vuelta para hacer las fotos y vuelve a estar al derecho.

I think we can agree it is easily confused! 😄
The board is upside down when removing from the drone. But then you flip it over to take the pictures, and it is right side up again.
View attachment 27000
Hahaha... you are absolutely right.
I already realized after I sent my wrong comment.
Sorry friends.
But now the thing gets more complicated, because the supposed cold solder is in ESC 2.
For now my brother, who knows about electronics, will help me to correct those cold soldering.
 

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