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Cleaning the pots?

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Thanks to @WTFDproject attachment 41, I'm about to have a go at cleaning the potentiometers on my ST16S as the hardware monitor reports small stick deflection when I've got full stick applied.
The document suggests 'plastic safe contact cleaner'. Amazon UK has this which seems to be the right thing, can someone confirm that for me, please?


I see that the stick self-centring force can be increased while I'm in there too, so I'll probably stiffen them up a little, I've always thought they are a bit sloppy.

Thanks

Paul
 
The Kudos go to @DoomMeister for Attachment 41. Doom provided the attachment. I just pasted it into the document.

Not certain about that cleaner. Way, way down the list it finally mentions use on plastic. I feel better about the ones that have "Plastic Safe" in great, big, unambiguous words right up where you can see it. Just a choice in marketing text, I know. Either way, I think I would try a little in some inconspicuous, harmless place before I gave it a full blast.
 
Thanks to @WTFDproject attachment 41, I'm about to have a go at cleaning the potentiometers on my ST16S as the hardware monitor reports small stick deflection when I've got full stick applied.
The document suggests 'plastic safe contact cleaner'. Amazon UK has this which seems to be the right thing, can someone confirm that for me, please?


I see that the stick self-centring force can be increased while I'm in there too, so I'll probably stiffen them up a little, I've always thought they are a bit sloppy.

Thanks

Paul
From the use data from WD-40 it appears that should do fine as they use it on plastic gamepad joysticks. For safety’s sake I would remove the sticks to clean them as shown in Attch. 41.

Use caution in stiffening the action of the sticks. It is easy to strip the plastic if you try to over do it. Once it is stripped you will need to replace the control gimbal.
 
I wish not use WD40, it's oil base and will leave an oil film that can attract dust and dirty.
I recommend CRC 2-26
The one he linked to is a different product from the company WD-40. If it was their original product I would agree. It does say it is very flammable, so there will be VOC’s. He will need to use it in a well ventilated area.
 
The one he linked to is a different product from the company WD-40. If it was their original product I would agree. It does say it is very flammable, so there will be VOC’s. He will need to use it in a well ventilated area.
Yes, I wouldn't spray penetrating oil in the controller. This spray I linked is a contact cleaner made by the WD-40 company
 
I was quite certain that is what you linked to. I still remove mine when I clean them. It is a bit OCD, but just a carry over from working in electronics labs.
 
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I spray mines before any flight day, I've had problems from time to time in the past, but never now...
 
I had sluggish, non centering gimbles in my ST16. The Typhoon would barely rotate at all in the air. I use "Corrosion X" with a hypodermic needle on the lube ports and pots. Also lightly coated all the ribbon connectors and anything else that involved intermittent contact that I could find. (without disconnecting, BTW) Gimbles are perfect now. Immediate return to perfect center every time. Typhoon flies with excellent response and stability. Corrosion X is used by military in harsh climates to protect and restore electronic equipment. I feel like it protects from corrosion and maintains electrical contacts longer and more effectively than "cleaners". Go to Utube and search for Corrosion X.
 
We spent a couple of hours disassembling the ST16S. The online walkthroughs only seem to cover the ST16 which has case screws in different places to the S, but we figured it out eventually. We invested in a set of tiny hex screwdrivers, 1.5mm and 2mm as well as larger sizes. I'll keep them in my drone toolkit from now on,
I did some research on this particular spray. It's well known in the UK RC aircraft community and they all say it's just fine to use for this.
We didn't remove the pots from the shell and sprayed them while they were in place. We didn't adjust the tensioner in the end - we'll just learn to be light on the sticks.
 
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