WooHoo, usb cable #4, got a connection.... IPS not installed, RealSense not installed, everything else checkmarked good.
Hello from Missouri
- Thread starter Jrevans5
- Start date
Vehicle firmware version 1.35 2017-3-3
controller V03.01.b30
Sorry completely missed the "use supplied usb". am currently using one from my kindle.
controller V03.01.b30
Sorry completely missed the "use supplied usb". am currently using one from my kindle.
shutdown drone, controller, added the camera back, brought everything back up. I went into the "pad" and joined my house wifi.. I tried the web, and google works. went back to the home screen, bound my camera, back home, I have wifi, and 5.8 signal, still no drone to bind.
Since you are able to fly the simulator it tells me the ST-16 is fine. With the aircraft never showing up it does not bode well for the Receiver board in the aircraft. When you are in the bind menu have you used the refresh button to see if the aircraft shows up (when the Main LED is flashing orange rapidly) while set to bind.
I have tried the refresh button. Drone shows orange only briefly, then starts a fast blue flash, beeps every 30 seconds.
Leave the ST16 off and power up the aircraft. You should get a rapidly flashing blue on the a Main LED. Now tilt it forward by 45 degrees twice. The status LED should start flashing orange and remain that way.
If it stays flashing orange, turn on the ST16 and try to bind.
If it stays flashing orange, turn on the ST16 and try to bind.
Have you tried tilting it more than twice and by more than 45 degrees forward to get it into bind mode?
There is definitely a problem with the RF unit in the aircraft. I would say that @Steve Carr and @WTFDproject could give you a better idea of where to start on troubleshooting. It could be as easy as a connector being unplugged.
Hi, @Jrevans5,
First step will just be to see if the drone receiver (RF Module) is powered up. You do not need the camera for this. The camera can be removed to avoid stress on it. Leave the controller OFF.
1.) Power the drone up and wait until the rear main LED is flashing blue.
2.) Turn the drone upside down.
3.) look into the lower left rear vent (which will be on the right when upside down). Look a little forward of the actual vent holes. See if there is an orange LED flashing fairly slowly. About 2-3 flashes per second.
4.) Come back and post what you see.
First step will just be to see if the drone receiver (RF Module) is powered up. You do not need the camera for this. The camera can be removed to avoid stress on it. Leave the controller OFF.
1.) Power the drone up and wait until the rear main LED is flashing blue.
2.) Turn the drone upside down.
3.) look into the lower left rear vent (which will be on the right when upside down). Look a little forward of the actual vent holes. See if there is an orange LED flashing fairly slowly. About 2-3 flashes per second.
4.) Come back and post what you see.
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Now do the 45 degree tilt thing awhile, and look at the strobing light again. The strobing rate should double from the 2-3 per second to about 5 times per second.
Tilted it forward and back to level for 4-5 minutes leaving it position for a second or 2. No change in the frequency of the led.
Good. That narrows it down. Here's what we have.
1.) The Drone mainboard knows it is in bind mode.
2.) The drone receiver (RF Module) does not.
That means the communication between the mainboard and the RF module is broken somewhere. The comunication between the two is one of the four RF Module wires. I THINK it is the gray wire.
The most common failure point is the connector on the mainboard end. One of the pictures below shows the location of the connector, and to fully access the connector involves removing the top shell and at least the four mainboard screws to allow you to lift the board up.
The connector is somewhat available via the battery door. The second image shows where it is. Look for any of the wire pins backed out of the connector, and try to shove it back in. You may be able to wiggle the whole connector out a little and back in with a pair of bent nosed tweezers. Again, I THINK it is the gray wire, but look at all of them closely.
Note: The TH used for the picture had colored wires between mainboard and RF Module. I think on most, all 4 wires are gray.
1.) The Drone mainboard knows it is in bind mode.
2.) The drone receiver (RF Module) does not.
That means the communication between the mainboard and the RF module is broken somewhere. The comunication between the two is one of the four RF Module wires. I THINK it is the gray wire.
The most common failure point is the connector on the mainboard end. One of the pictures below shows the location of the connector, and to fully access the connector involves removing the top shell and at least the four mainboard screws to allow you to lift the board up.
The connector is somewhat available via the battery door. The second image shows where it is. Look for any of the wire pins backed out of the connector, and try to shove it back in. You may be able to wiggle the whole connector out a little and back in with a pair of bent nosed tweezers. Again, I THINK it is the gray wire, but look at all of them closely.
Note: The TH used for the picture had colored wires between mainboard and RF Module. I think on most, all 4 wires are gray.
Was able to get away from chores long enough to peek through the battery compartment. Looks pretty well seated. Pushed on it a little. Didn’t seem to move. Haven’t been able to get away long enough to test. Will probably have to dive into it. Probably Monday. I really appreciate the assistance!
You actually need a metric hex of 1.5mm to remove the body screws. The ones holding the landing gear and antenna tubes are 2mm hex.
Note: a T6 can be used in place of a 1.5mm hex and a T7 can be used in place of a 2mm hex.
Oh, hex... ok got the top cover off, slightly pulled the connector towards off, and pushed it back in, everything appears to be seated well. No change in led.
