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Help! J1 not responding fully

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What can I do. J1 throttle max at 93%. It goes slowly back to 0 and same from minimum.
i have tried to calibrate and J1 doesn’t go clear in green.
 

DoomMeister

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You need to open the back of the ST16 and check that the potentiometer is not loose and use a plastic safe contact cleaner to clean the potentiometer. Once it is clean and following your movements you should perform the calibration again.

This video will help in taking the ST16 apart.

When you have it opened up move the sticks and observe the potentiometers and make sure they are not rocking in their mounts. Then using a plastic safe contact cleaner spray a small amount into the small hole on the body and move the stick vigorously. I do this about three times for each potentiometer.
954769D9-A94D-4A3F-AD43-418D36542BD8.jpeg
Reassemble the ST16 and perform the calibration again. Make sure the sticks, tilt slider, rate slider, and pan knob are centered before exiting the first half of the calibration.

Sorry, I copied the wrong link and linked the playlist instead of the calibration video.
 
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Hi Doom Master
First. Thank you for reply. Appreciated. thanks for the detailed description. I will check if I can find a more skilled tech person to help out :)
I notice the following.

after doing the calibration test the J1 is still red in the first “Calibration part”. When doing section 2 it is green?
It become slightly better. Still , it doesn’t get back to 0 quick and tends to strive downwards??

I think your move is the way to do it. Will try. Thanks.
 
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What can I do. J1 throttle max at 93%. It goes slowly back to 0 and same from minimum.
i have tried to calibrate and J1 doesn’t go clear in green.
I have had the same exact problem and still get it from time to time. My issue was/is that Yuneec's controller gets some oxidation on the stick sensors making them lag, this apparently is a common problem if you live in humid areas. All you have to do to fix it is spray it with contact cleaner and move the sticks around to work in the cleaner. You may have to do it several times, let it sit and do it a few more if it's really bad. I take my controller apart to access the metal wheels/sensors better but I have seen people spray it from the outside and it does work if it's a mild case (tried that too). I only get repeated problems after I let the controller sit unused for a while. So it's become apart of my maintenance routine. I would say if it's slowly re-centering, you likely have an oxidation problem not a broken stick and it's easy to fix. Contact cleaner is usually sold at automotive parts stores usually under or around $10. CRC makes a good one but really any should work. If your throttle goes quickly back to place but doesn't go to the extents of control, then you likely have a broken stick but it sounds to me like you have oxidation issues. Also, even if it's not an oxidation issue, the contact cleaner won't hurt your equipment, just let it dry for a few minutes before powering it back up. Hope this helps!
 

DoomMeister

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Hi Doom Master
First. Thank you for reply. Appreciated. thanks for the detailed description. I will check if I can find a more skilled tech person to help out :)
I notice the following.

after doing the calibration test the J1 is still red in the first “Calibration part”. When doing section 2 it is green?
It become slightly better. Still , it doesn’t get back to 0 quick and tends to strive downwards??

I think your move is the way to do it. Will try. Thanks.
I will be back home in about 4 hours. If you need some guidance beyond the videos just click on my name and select Start Conversation.
 
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I have had the same exact problem and still get it from time to time. My issue was/is that Yuneec's controller gets some oxidation on the stick sensors making them lag, this apparently is a common problem if you live in humid areas. All you have to do to fix it is spray it with contact cleaner and move the sticks around to work in the cleaner. You may have to do it several times, let it sit and do it a few more if it's really bad. I take my controller apart to access the metal wheels/sensors better but I have seen people spray it from the outside and it does work if it's a mild case (tried that too). I only get repeated problems after I let the controller sit unused for a while. So it's become apart of my maintenance routine. I would say if it's slowly re-centering, you likely have an oxidation problem not a broken stick and it's easy to fix. Contact cleaner is usually sold at automotive parts stores usually under or around $10. CRC makes a good one but really any should work. If your throttle goes quickly back to place but doesn't go to the extents of control, then you likely have a broken stick but it sounds to me like you have oxidation issues. Also, even if it's not an oxidation issue, the contact cleaner won't hurt your equipment, just let it dry for a few minutes before powering it back up. Hope this helps!
 
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I will be back home in about 4 hours. If you need some guidance beyond the videos just click on my name and select Start Conversation.
Hi again Doom Meister
First. Sorry for my spelling mistake of your name.
Thanks again for your guidance. Highly appreciated. I have now placed the ST16 in the hands of a more skilled person then myself:). Hopefully it’s just an oxidation problem. Ok let you know.
Again. Thank you so much for taking time to respond.
 
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Hi again. According to the technical guy looking at the ST16 there is no problem with oxidation.
However, he mean that the accelerometer in the ST16 doesn’t work correctly.
That this part has to be changed. Any tips on where to buy or if you have come across this before ?
 

DoomMeister

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Hi again. According to the technical guy looking at the ST16 there is no problem with oxidation.
However, he mean that the accelerometer in the ST16 doesn’t work correctly.
That this part has to be changed. Any tips on where to buy or if you have come across this before ?
That sounds really strange to me. The accelerometer is only used in follow me/watch me mode and does not affect the response of J1 (throttle - assuming mode 2 control setup). I’m not sure how he would have tested it.
 

WTFDproject

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What can I do. J1 throttle max at 93%. It goes slowly back to 0 and same from minimum.
i have tried to calibrate and J1 doesn’t go clear in green.
@Gurrago,
Ett försiktighetsord borde ha varit på plats innan du försökte använda kalibreringsprogrammet för att åtgärda ett hårdvaruproblem. Men det har redan gjorts, så det enda alternativet är att gå vidare.
Lite bakgrundsinformation först: Som föreslagits ovan är kalibreringsprogrammet inte rätt verktyg för att korrigera ett hårdvaruproblem. Det är inte dess syfte. Det är där för att kalibrera nya komponenter när de läggs till i systemet eller efter reparation av komponenter. Problemet är att kalibreringsprogrammet ofta verkar lösa hårdvaruproblem. Men det är en illusion. Oxidation är ett perfekt exempel. Att använda kalibreringsprogrammet för att hantera ett oxidationsproblem kan tyckas lösa problemet. I verkligheten är oxidationen fortfarande närvarande. Och oxidationen kommer att förändra dess egenskaper. När oxidationsegenskaperna ändras kan du uppleva oväntade förändringar i ditt regulatorsvar under flygningen. Kanske mindre men också allvarligare förändringar. Av denna anledning rekommenderas det inte att använda kalibreringsprogrammet alls, förutom kalibrering av nya eller fysiskt reparerade komponenter. Om rengöring av befintlig utrustning inte löser problemet bör krukorna bytas ut och en kalibrering utföras.
Men det gäller inte din nuvarande situation. Du har redan stört de ursprungliga kalibreringsvärdena. Allt du kan göra nu är att rengöra det bästa och försöka återställa krukorna till deras ursprungliga fysiska skick. Då måste du köra kalibreringsprogrammet igen för att återställa de ursprungliga kalibreringsvärdena. Det finns ett problem med detta. Eftersom de ursprungliga kalibreringsvärdena är borta har du inget sätt att faktiskt bekräfta att krukorna verkligen har återställts till sitt ursprungliga fysiska tillstånd. Allt du kan göra är att göra så bra du kan och sedan köra kalibreringen.

Ledsen för alla orden. Alla dessa ord ledde bara till detta slutliga uttalande:
Tänk på att dina kontrollegenskaper kan förändras oväntat under flygningen.



A word of caution would have been in order before you attempted to use the calibration program to fix a hardware issue. But that has already been done, so the only option is to move forward.
A little background information first: As suggested above, the calibration program is not the proper tool for correcting a hardware issue. That is not it's purpose. It is there to calibrate new components when they are added to the system, or after repair of components. The problem is that the calibration program often appears to fix hardware issues. But that is an illusion. The oxidation is a perfect example. If you use the calibration program to address an oxidation problem, it may appear to resolve the problem. In reality, the oxidation is still present. And the oxidation will change it's characteristics. When the oxidation characteristics change, you can get unexpected changes in your controller response during flight. Perhaps minor, but also perhaps more serious changes. For this reason, it is not normally advised to use the calibration program at all, other than calibration of new or physically repaired components. If cleaning the existing equipment does not resolve the issue, the pots should be replaced, and then a calibration performed.
But that does not apply to your current situation. You have already disturbed the original calibration values. All you can do now is the best cleaning possible, and try to restore the pots to their original physical state. Then you will need to run the calibration program again to restore the original calibration values. There is a problem with this. Since the original calibration values are gone, you have no way to actually confirm the pots have been truly restored to their original condition. All you can do is the best you can, and then run the calibration.

Sorry for all the words. All these words were just leading to this final statement:
Be aware your controller characteristics may change unexpectedly during flight.
 

DoomMeister

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Can you have him take a photo of what he thinks needs to be changed and have you upload it here using the Attach files button.
 
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That sounds really strange to me. The accelerometer is only used in follow me/watch me mode and does not affect the response of J1 (throttle - assuming mode 2 control setup). I’m not sure how he would have tested it.
Ok. Thanks for the reply. I will give your input to the technician.
To be continued...
 

WTFDproject

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Hi again. According to the technical guy looking at the ST16 there is no problem with oxidation.
However, he mean that the accelerometer in the ST16 doesn’t work correctly.
That this part has to be changed. Any tips on where to buy or if you have come across this before ?
With courtesy, I would disagree with your technical guy.

I believe you are seeing the abnormality when viewing in "Hardware Monitor". If you are looking at "Hardware Monitor" that is the output of J1 itself, unaffected by any downstream signal conditioners other than the Calibration program. The pots need to be cleaned or replaced.

However, if you are seeing normal values in "Hardware Monitor", but abnormal values on the Final output display or on the Channel settings menus, there could be other reasons.

Please ensure we understand which of the available monitoring systems you are using to see the abnormal values.
 
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@Gurrago,
Ett försiktighetsord borde ha varit på plats innan du försökte använda kalibreringsprogrammet för att åtgärda ett hårdvaruproblem. Men det har redan gjorts, så det enda alternativet är att gå vidare.
Lite bakgrundsinformation först: Som föreslagits ovan är kalibreringsprogrammet inte rätt verktyg för att korrigera ett hårdvaruproblem. Det är inte dess syfte. Det är där för att kalibrera nya komponenter när de läggs till i systemet eller efter reparation av komponenter. Problemet är att kalibreringsprogrammet ofta verkar lösa hårdvaruproblem. Men det är en illusion. Oxidation är ett perfekt exempel. Att använda kalibreringsprogrammet för att hantera ett oxidationsproblem kan tyckas lösa problemet. I verkligheten är oxidationen fortfarande närvarande. Och oxidationen kommer att förändra dess egenskaper. När oxidationsegenskaperna ändras kan du uppleva oväntade förändringar i ditt regulatorsvar under flygningen. Kanske mindre men också allvarligare förändringar. Av denna anledning rekommenderas det inte att använda kalibreringsprogrammet alls, förutom kalibrering av nya eller fysiskt reparerade komponenter. Om rengöring av befintlig utrustning inte löser problemet bör krukorna bytas ut och en kalibrering utföras.
Men det gäller inte din nuvarande situation. Du har redan stört de ursprungliga kalibreringsvärdena. Allt du kan göra nu är att rengöra det bästa och försöka återställa krukorna till deras ursprungliga fysiska skick. Då måste du köra kalibreringsprogrammet igen för att återställa de ursprungliga kalibreringsvärdena. Det finns ett problem med detta. Eftersom de ursprungliga kalibreringsvärdena är borta har du inget sätt att faktiskt bekräfta att krukorna verkligen har återställts till sitt ursprungliga fysiska tillstånd. Allt du kan göra är att göra så bra du kan och sedan köra kalibreringen.

Ledsen för alla orden. Alla dessa ord ledde bara till detta slutliga uttalande:
Tänk på att dina kontrollegenskaper kan förändras oväntat under flygningen.



A word of caution would have been in order before you attempted to use the calibration program to fix a hardware issue. But that has already been done, so the only option is to move forward.
A little background information first: As suggested above, the calibration program is not the proper tool for correcting a hardware issue. That is not it's purpose. It is there to calibrate new components when they are added to the system, or after repair of components. The problem is that the calibration program often appears to fix hardware issues. But that is an illusion. The oxidation is a perfect example. If you use the calibration program to address an oxidation problem, it may appear to resolve the problem. In reality, the oxidation is still present. And the oxidation will change it's characteristics. When the oxidation characteristics change, you can get unexpected changes in your controller response during flight. Perhaps minor, but also perhaps more serious changes. For this reason, it is not normally advised to use the calibration program at all, other than calibration of new or physically repaired components. If cleaning the existing equipment does not resolve the issue, the pots should be replaced, and then a calibration performed.
But that does not apply to your current situation. You have already disturbed the original calibration values. All you can do now is the best cleaning possible, and try to restore the pots to their original physical state. Then you will need to run the calibration program again to restore the original calibration values. There is a problem with this. Since the original calibration values are gone, you have no way to actually confirm the pots have been truly restored to their original condition. All you can do is the best you can, and then run the calibration.

Sorry for all the words. All these words were just leading to this final statement:
Be aware your controller characteristics may change unexpectedly during flight.
Ok thanks.
Sounds tricky. Thanks.
 

WTFDproject

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With courtesy, I would disagree with your technical guy.
Det finns också ett relativt enkelt sätt att testa detta i den praktiska världen. Styrspaksenheterna till vänster och höger har samma artikelnummer. De hålls på plats av endast kontakterna inuti styrenheten och med 1,5 mm insexskruvar på utsidan. Be din tekniska kille att byta ut de två enheterna mot varandra. Om oxidation är problemet blir J1 normalt och det är J3 som sedan visar problemet.

There is also a relatively simple way to test this in the practical world. The left and right Joy Stick assemblies are the same part number. They are held in place by only the connector plugs inside the controller, and by the 1.5mm Hex screws on the outside. Ask your technical guy to swap the two assemblies. If oxidation is the issue, J1 will become normal, and it will be J3 that will then show the problem.
 
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Det finns också ett relativt enkelt sätt att testa detta i den praktiska världen. Styrspaksenheterna till vänster och höger har samma artikelnummer. De hålls på plats av endast kontakterna inuti styrenheten och med 1,5 mm insexskruvar på utsidan. Be din tekniska kille att byta ut de två enheterna mot varandra. Om oxidation är problemet blir J1 normalt och det är J3 som sedan visar problemet.

There is also a relatively simple way to test this in the practical world. The left and right Joy Stick assemblies are the same part number. They are held in place by only the connector plugs inside the controller, and by the 1.5mm Hex screws on the outside. Ask your technical guy to swap the two assemblies. If oxidation is the issue, J1 will become normal, and it will be J3 that will then show the problem.
Thank you. I will pass that information. Appreciated.
 

DoomMeister

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When you visit the technician again try contacting us and we will assist in determining what is wrong. The are very few problems we have not seen before and we know how to recover from most. A photo of what the technician determined to be the problem will help. We can probably have a part number for it also.
 
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When you visit the technician again try contacting us and we will assist in determining what is wrong. The are very few problems we have not seen before and we know how to recover from most. A photo of what the technician determined to be the problem will help. We can probably have a part number for it also.
Thanks
I will use all your relevant input with the technician. Guess we have a major time difference as I’m in north Europe:)
Thanks again and I will for certain let you know the progress in this.
I really appreciate your engagement. Amazing.
 

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DoomMeister

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We are happy to help. We are all owners/operators of Yuneec products and many of us have technical backgrounds and share our knowledge of these systems. The more we share the more our community grows. We are glad you found us and joined our community and hope you will remain an active member.

Hopefully we can resolve your issues with the ST16 in a timely manner. I am responding at 10:50AM my time and you can see how it compares to the time stamp on the post to calculate our time difference.
 
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