Looking to acquire gimbal calibration software for the CGO3+
- Thread starter cabinfourus
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Some step-by-step instructions or user manuals for this software?
I can do CGO3+ from A to Z if the gimbal board is used at least one time and some magnet positions are stored. Of course, will be interesting to prepare some solutions to use brand new boards too. On the other hand, here are available a lot of used boards, so obtaining one more is not a problem.
CGO 3 is an obsolete camera, so any effort in research is just wasted time.
C23/E90 is a bit difficult to maintain due to the mechanical design of the yaw portion but it is more tolerant to magnets' positions.
I do not have the software or the instructions. I only know they exist from a former member of the forum that worked at a repair facility. They were bound legally by a no disclosure agreement and could not share the software or instructions.
Everyone can share a story about how it uses software and how to obtain the results. This is not a violation of the purchase agreement.
I'm talking about any software, not for this one only.
Doesn't matter, cameras can be done with trivial tools in 99% of cases. The rest one percent will be with software or the camera will be used as a donor.
I'm talking about any software, not for this one only.
Doesn't matter, cameras can be done with trivial tools in 99% of cases. The rest one percent will be with software or the camera will be used as a donor.
I just wanted to update this thread with a link to the software.
This is the Yuneec calibration software for cameras/gimbals
drive.google.com
This is the Yuneec calibration software for cameras/gimbals
GB-SET V39 ENGLISH.rar
drive.google.com
h-elsner
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Has anyone gat this working with CGO3+? It looks like I get connection to the camera (not sure but "something" happens) but there is no reaction to the buttons at all. Nothing changed.
I have one camera that is not exactly directed forward and hoped to get it corrected. Unfortunately no change.
br HE
I have one camera that is not exactly directed forward and hoped to get it corrected. Unfortunately no change.
br HE
h-elsner
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2016
- Messages
- 2,311
- Reaction score
- 2,043
- Location
- Bavaria / Germany
- Website
- h-elsner.mooo.com
I know I am late coming back to this but I am going to start working with this software. I will post any results I have.
Also, the guy I got the software from tells me he will send me a copy of the manual but I am not counting on it. I'd like to get this worked out soon. This has been a sore in my side for a few years. I enjoy a good challenge and is the main reason I worked so hard to get the software.
It is sad that the ones who say they can repair these gimbals won't share their information with anyone, blaming the lengthy learning curve when it actually comes down to money. The days of repairing these gimbals and making money from them are long gone since most have moved away from this setup. Honestly, a nice GoPro Session 5 with its built-in stabilization is much better than a CGO3+ and you don't have to worry about breaking wires when you crash it.
I am not in this to make money. Money is the least of my worries. The 125-150 dollar charge for calibrating a gimbal is ridiculous. The process takes about 30 minutes and your computer does most of the work. No one is going to get rich from calibrating Yuneec gimbals or selling their products since most of the customer base has left. I am sure there are many broken Yuneec products sitting in the corners of garages all over the world since no one wants to spend hundreds of dollars to repair an outdated drone/gimbal/camera.
The software I shared came from a former Yuneec employee who took a better job with DJI when Yuneec laid him off. He said he has more to share with me but he has to find it. He has it stored on different flash drives and when he moved he misplaced them. I recently reached out to him again and am waiting for his reply. If you have trouble with the software, try an OS compatibility change. Try running the software for Windows 7/8 or maybe even Linux.
I am curious to know if anyone has had to calibrate their IMU sensor for the gimbal. It requires putting your gimbal in the freezer set at 32 degrees and then in the oven set at 150 degrees. Is this the operating temp range?
Well, my fingers are tired so I am done.
Also, the guy I got the software from tells me he will send me a copy of the manual but I am not counting on it. I'd like to get this worked out soon. This has been a sore in my side for a few years. I enjoy a good challenge and is the main reason I worked so hard to get the software.
It is sad that the ones who say they can repair these gimbals won't share their information with anyone, blaming the lengthy learning curve when it actually comes down to money. The days of repairing these gimbals and making money from them are long gone since most have moved away from this setup. Honestly, a nice GoPro Session 5 with its built-in stabilization is much better than a CGO3+ and you don't have to worry about breaking wires when you crash it.
I am not in this to make money. Money is the least of my worries. The 125-150 dollar charge for calibrating a gimbal is ridiculous. The process takes about 30 minutes and your computer does most of the work. No one is going to get rich from calibrating Yuneec gimbals or selling their products since most of the customer base has left. I am sure there are many broken Yuneec products sitting in the corners of garages all over the world since no one wants to spend hundreds of dollars to repair an outdated drone/gimbal/camera.
The software I shared came from a former Yuneec employee who took a better job with DJI when Yuneec laid him off. He said he has more to share with me but he has to find it. He has it stored on different flash drives and when he moved he misplaced them. I recently reached out to him again and am waiting for his reply. If you have trouble with the software, try an OS compatibility change. Try running the software for Windows 7/8 or maybe even Linux.
I am curious to know if anyone has had to calibrate their IMU sensor for the gimbal. It requires putting your gimbal in the freezer set at 32 degrees and then in the oven set at 150 degrees. Is this the operating temp range?
Well, my fingers are tired so I am done.
Last edited:
Yuneec US has closed their operations down permanently, even though they claim it's only during the COVID19 episode. If you need anything done through Yuneec, you're pretty much SOL.
Yes, they did. Without warning. Our lovely government carries some of the blame but Yuneec could have complied and stayed open in the US.
I still own a ton of Yuneec stuff. When I learned they were going to shut their doors in the US, I purchased crashed and damaged drones to use as replacement parts. I got a bit carried away though. I own seven Typhoon H, five H plus, eleven Q500, and between 60-70 CGO cameras/gimbals of various models. I have tons of motors, boards, controllers, and body parts stored in my building. People started selling off their Yuneec stuff when they heard they were closing up shop in the US and I was able to get a LOT of this stuff very cheap.
My wife is a professional photographer and supported my indulgence of drones until my building became full and left her no room to store her belongings. Needless to say, I had to build another building for her. (c:
I became friends with a couple of former Yuneec technicians who are willing to share software and information some of us need but it takes time. One of my friends is currently searching for some hard drives he has stored that have the Y Ground Control GUI. He said he has it but finding it is difficult. He also has bootloaders for many of the cameras, gimbals, and drone boards. I offered to fly out and help him look. He is a great guy that really knows this stuff well. Another friend of mine was a technician for Best Buy and says he may have some of the software we need.
Anyway, fingers crossed, maybe one day I will get to play with it.
I want to explain some of the things I am working on.
I am using the Yaw motor in the example.
Yuneec uses absolute encoders with these gimbals. An absolute encoder needs a magnet to use for a reference when getting a position reading. In the picture, you will see the Yaw motor's magnet mounted on the motor's shaft and glued in place. When working on these gimbals, this glue sometimes breaks loose and the magnet will move out of place. This causes the dreaded death spin or shaking out of control. To fix this you have to position the magnet back to its original position. You need to know where the magnet poles (magnetic pull or push) are. I use a piece of sewing thread and a needle and float it over the magnet until it pulls the needle to it. I also use a magnetometer with some. In the picture of the Yaw encoder, I placed colored lines representing different strengths of the magnetic pull. These are the settings you normally have to change with the calibration software. You must realign the camera and motors to zero position. As long as you keep the main board with the IMU, you don't need to calibrate these gimbals. Simply mark the magnet with paint and move it 1-2mm each until you get a steady camera. It takes time but can be done.
I am using the Yaw motor in the example.
Yuneec uses absolute encoders with these gimbals. An absolute encoder needs a magnet to use for a reference when getting a position reading. In the picture, you will see the Yaw motor's magnet mounted on the motor's shaft and glued in place. When working on these gimbals, this glue sometimes breaks loose and the magnet will move out of place. This causes the dreaded death spin or shaking out of control. To fix this you have to position the magnet back to its original position. You need to know where the magnet poles (magnetic pull or push) are. I use a piece of sewing thread and a needle and float it over the magnet until it pulls the needle to it. I also use a magnetometer with some. In the picture of the Yaw encoder, I placed colored lines representing different strengths of the magnetic pull. These are the settings you normally have to change with the calibration software. You must realign the camera and motors to zero position. As long as you keep the main board with the IMU, you don't need to calibrate these gimbals. Simply mark the magnet with paint and move it 1-2mm each until you get a steady camera. It takes time but can be done.
Attachments
1. The YAW magnet is usually not glued.
2. The internal logic of the gimbal is a little bit more sophisticated than you are expecting.
3. As one good boy said some time ago, "If we have a chance to stabilize the camera itself, in any case, it will not point forward, and no solution to avoid this!". A solution exists, focus on this. The rest is already done with simple methods and hardware, and it is explained in the forum.
Hint. Tilt and roll magnets are positioned with almost the same orientation. @h-elsner provided a good tool to monitor the position via I2C. I'm lazy and use PWM output for the same purpose.
2. The internal logic of the gimbal is a little bit more sophisticated than you are expecting.
3. As one good boy said some time ago, "If we have a chance to stabilize the camera itself, in any case, it will not point forward, and no solution to avoid this!". A solution exists, focus on this. The rest is already done with simple methods and hardware, and it is explained in the forum.
Hint. Tilt and roll magnets are positioned with almost the same orientation. @h-elsner provided a good tool to monitor the position via I2C. I'm lazy and use PWM output for the same purpose.
BTW, don't move the YAW magnet if the camera is still in working condition. After that, it will not work.
Yes, I know. I am working with several people right now on some different ways to get this done. h-elsner is working with us.
It truly isn't that difficult to make the changes. The problem is communicating with the STM32 chip. Some of the yaw magnets are glued. I am not sure if it is older or newer though.
Would you like to share with us your final target and the way with cornerstones you will use to reach it?
Reading and exploring the content of the ST is definitely the road to nowhere in the meantime of the next few years.
Reading and exploring the content of the ST is definitely the road to nowhere in the meantime of the next few years.
I will when I reach the final stages of this. I don't want to toss anything out there that may or may not mess up someone's gimbal.
Reading the STM32 and accessing the bootloader is one of my main objectives. Using standard software provided by STM isn't going to work.
The STM32F processor's readout protection has been cracked but it is not an easy task. It is not something I was able to do but rather someone using a JTAG broke the readout protection and
it had some people worried about 'back door' or 'cold boot' access. I have been working with the STM products for a few years now and it's mostly a personal challenge.
Shedding too much Light on a Microcontroller’s Firmware Protection - Fraunhofer AISEC
www.aisec.fraunhofer.de
I do have some GREAT software for reading firmware files, deleted files, and much more. I picked it up from the NC prison system.
Someone was using a Typhoon H to drop drugs into a local prison and they were able to catch the drone and the software they used to open everything up is awesome.
010 Editor
Autopsy
Exiftool
Mediainfo GUI
OpenJDK2
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