New update 777-20181022

[10-8]

@10-8

With my early experience with Build 757

GPS to drone was green (let’s just say 17 gps) Satellite to controller was red (let’s just say 8) and when I flew it, it drifted, ascends without throttle input and hard to land.

With Build 777 I took off at red 8 satellites and the H+ flew solid, this was not the case in Build 757

That's

@10-8

With my early experience with Build 757

GPS to drone was green (let’s just say 17 gps) Satellite to controller was red (let’s just say 8) and when I flew it, it drifted, ascends without throttle input and hard to land.

With Build 777 I took off at red 8 satellites and the H+ flew solid, this was not the case in Build 757

That's great, but nothing to do with GPS on controller. Controller position is in no way feeding it's position to the drone for hover accuracy. You could also say the first time you flew it was great and the next time it was all over and the only difference was you had coffee that morning. Controller is there so the PIC has input to the drone and nothing to do with the on board FC and GPS. That is why you can take off and then simply turn off the controller and not have an effect on how the drone flies. It would just simply initiate it's programmed FS. And if you program a 10sec delay for that FS, you would not see a difference in the hover when the controller is turned off.

 

[daylight99]

Flying from my front yard lastnight and I noticed something very cool when I brought it down to land. Once it was about 3' to 4' above the ground I was getting ready for a hand catch but noticed how dead still the H was. Normally it would drift a little hovering at that height but after 777 it didn't move even a 1/4" in any direction. Yuneec did a great job on this one.

 

[BrianA.]

@10-8

With my early experience with Build 757

GPS to drone was green (let’s just say 17 gps) Satellite to controller was red (let’s just say 8) and when I flew it, it drifted, ascends without throttle input and hard to land.

With Build 777 I took off at red 8 satellites and the H+ flew solid, this was not the case in Build 757

I've had the same problem a couple of times. Almost zero control and full down stick barely gets the aircraft back to the ground. Kill switch doesn't work. Scared the crap out of me the first time since I had a full battery when it happened just after takeoff. After power cycling the aircraft, everything worked as advertised. Was waiting on updating FW until I see people's responses from updating. Maybe I should just go ahead and update.

 

[Frontier]

Updated yesterday to build 777 but since it was already dark, performed a small test flight today.
The usual jello effect - although not so much - came back, almost the same experience like build 757 before.

I will try to do the same thing like before: resetting everything back to build 652 and performing the upgrade from there to see if that fixes the issue.
I'll report my results here.

 

[mbernholdt]

Updated yesterday to build 777 but since it was already dark, performed a small test flight today.
The usual jello effect - although not so much - came back, almost the same experience like build 757 before.

I will try to do the same thing like before: resetting everything back to build 652 and performing the upgrade from there to see if that fixes the issue.
I'll report my results here.

It looks more like a shake than a jello to me.

Have you tried to check your prop balance, rubber dampers and arms for damage?

 

[oliver]

Updated yesterday to build 777 but since it was already dark, performed a small test flight today.
The usual jello effect - although not so much - came back, almost the same experience like build 757 before.

I will try to do the same thing like before: resetting everything back to build 652 and performing the upgrade from there to see if that fixes the issue.
I'll report my results here.

This is not jello, usually caused by a shutter speed that is too high. It is evening, the shutter speed must be low. I would say in the first place a problem with dampers, second camera stabilization (engine, sensor, etc.) and third camera firmware

 

[record.play.rewind]

That's

That's great, but nothing to do with GPS on controller. Controller position is in no way feeding it's position to the drone for hover accuracy. You could also say the first time you flew it was great and the next time it was all over and the only difference was you had coffee that morning. Controller is there so the PIC has input to the drone and nothing to do with the on board FC and GPS. That is why you can take off and then simply turn off the controller and not have an effect on how the drone flies. It would just simply initiate it's programmed FS. And if you program a 10sec delay for that FS, you would not see a difference in the hover when the controller is turned off.

Yuneec has unique problems, try flying yours with 5 or 2 links to the controller and report back, and be honest with your findings.

 

[10-8]

Yuneec has unique problems, try flying yours with 5 or 2 links to the controller and report back, and be honest with your findings.

I often fly from under a metal roof and usually have 0 on the controller. But wouldn't matter. The controller GPS reception is not communicating with the FC in any way for flight stability. Think about what you are trying to imply; the ability of the drone to hold IT'S POSITION depends on the controller's reported position (no matter how far away) and it's accuracy. And if that were true, turning the controller off would have an effect as well. It doesn't and is often done in testing. I only make a point of this because there are many new pilots on here and they don't need any more misinformation.

Controller GPS is used for:
The Distance to drone reading on the controller (other manufactures will typically use the HP due to no GPS in the controller.)
Mission Planning and to display current position.
Recording position of the controller when Dynamic HP is chosen (return to controller option). This is updated every second but ONLY when the controller has a minimum of 10 Sats. This creates a new HP 8m in front of the controller position. If less than 10 sats, it will use the original HP recorded on takeoff. If there are 10 or more sats and a dynamic HP is recorded but then there are less than 10 later in the flight, the HP will be 8m in front of the last recorded HP. I have suggested that be changed.

 

[record.play.rewind]

I often fly from under a metal roof and usually have 0 on the controller. But wouldn't matter. The controller GPS reception is not communicating with the FC in any way for flight stability. Think about what you are trying to imply; the ability of the drone to hold IT'S POSITION depends on the controller's reported position (no matter how far away) and it's accuracy. And if that were true, turning the controller off would have an effect as well. It doesn't and is often done in testing. I only make a point of this because there are many new pilots on here and they don't need any more misinformation.

Controller GPS is used for:
The Distance to drone reading on the controller (other manufactures will typically use the HP due to no GPS in the controller.)
Mission Planning and to display current position.
Recording position of the controller when Dynamic HP is chosen (return to controller option). This is updated every second but ONLY when the controller has a minimum of 10 Sats. This creates a new HP 8m in front of the controller position. If less than 10 sats, it will use the original HP recorded on takeoff. If there are 10 or more sats and a dynamic HP is recorded but then there are less than 10 later in the flight, the HP will be 8m in front of the last recorded HP. I have suggested that be changed.

I just ordered an HDMI video recorder, footage from my body cam are not clear to help me visually explain of what I have been having with my H+ I fly in a lot of roofs and busy pits.

 

[JeorgheIT]

I often fly from under a metal roof and usually have 0 on the controller. But wouldn't matter. The controller GPS reception is not communicating with the FC in any way for flight stability. Think about what you are trying to imply; the ability of the drone to hold IT'S POSITION depends on the controller's reported position (no matter how far away) and it's accuracy. And if that were true, turning the controller off would have an effect as well. It doesn't and is often done in testing. I only make a point of this because there are many new pilots on here and they don't need any more misinformation.

Controller GPS is used for:
The Distance to drone reading on the controller (other manufactures will typically use the HP due to no GPS in the controller.)
Mission Planning and to display current position.
Recording position of the controller when Dynamic HP is chosen (return to controller option). This is updated every second but ONLY when the controller has a minimum of 10 Sats. This creates a new HP 8m in front of the controller position. If less than 10 sats, it will use the original HP recorded on takeoff. If there are 10 or more sats and a dynamic HP is recorded but then there are less than 10 later in the flight, the HP will be 8m in front of the last recorded HP. I have suggested that be changed.

Thanks for this clear informations.

 

[Frontier]

@mbernholdt
@oliver
Thank you for your insights. The blades are pretty new (less than 2 hours total flight time) and there are no issues with the gimbal dampers.

The test video was shot on 7:45 AM local time today. As it turned out, I performed exactly the same procedure like I did here and reflashed build 777 after downgrading everything to build 652.
Performed a flight test afterwards (5:30 PM local time), no jello at all. The aircraft is rock steady with this release regarding hovering, not drifting at all.
The test was on an area with lots of WiFi networks (over 30, both 2.4GHz and 5.8GHz), no issues at all (RTH also worked perfectly).

Here is the test video after performing 777 -> 652 -> 777 flash.

Note to myself: always downgrade to 652 before applying any future upgrades; it seems that my gimbal needs some sort of calibration that only after flashing 652 is performed.
It would be nice if Yuneec added some gimbal calibration routine to the gimbal code, it would save all this hassle.

 

[mbernholdt]

@mbernholdt
@oliver
Thank you for your insights. The blades are pretty new (less than 2 hours total flight time) and there are no issues with the gimbal dampers.

The test video was shot on 7:45 AM local time today. As it turned out, I performed exactly the same procedure like I did here and reflashed build 777 after downgrading everything to build 652.
Performed a flight test afterwards (5:30 PM local time), no jello at all. The aircraft is rock steady with this release regarding hovering, not drifting at all.
The test was on an area with lots of WiFi networks (over 30, both 2.4GHz and 5.8GHz), no issues at all (RTH also worked perfectly).

Here is the test video after performing 777 -> 652 -> 777 flash.

Note to myself: always downgrade to 652 before applying any future upgrades; it seems that my gimbal needs some sort of calibration that only after flashing 652 is performed.
It would be nice if Yuneec added some gimbal calibration routine to the gimbal code, it would save all this hassle.

Really glad to hear it got solved.

 

[mbernholdt]

Really glad to hear it got solved.

Btw the 652 update was that the one that fixed the vibration issue?

 

[oliver]

@mbernholdt
It would be nice if Yuneec added some gimbal calibration routine to the gimbal code, it would save all this hassle.

we had forgotten , i add here: Typhoon H PLUS improvement proposal
Thank's

 

[Eagle's Eye Video]

@mbernholdt
@oliver
Thank you for your insights. The blades are pretty new (less than 2 hours total flight time) and there are no issues with the gimbal dampers.

The test video was shot on 7:45 AM local time today. As it turned out, I performed exactly the same procedure like I did here and reflashed build 777 after downgrading everything to build 652.
Performed a flight test afterwards (5:30 PM local time), no jello at all. The aircraft is rock steady with this release regarding hovering, not drifting at all.
The test was on an area with lots of WiFi networks (over 30, both 2.4GHz and 5.8GHz), no issues at all (RTH also worked perfectly).

Here is the test video after performing 777 -> 652 -> 777 flash.

Note to myself: always downgrade to 652 before applying any future upgrades; it seems that my gimbal needs some sort of calibration that only after flashing 652 is performed.
It would be nice if Yuneec added some gimbal calibration routine to the gimbal code, it would save all this hassle.

@Frontier if there is any way you can video that reflashing process, when you update next and pop it up on YT... I'm sure many pilots would benefit from being able to watch that step by step.

 

[record.play.rewind]

 

[Frontier]

Btw the 652 update was that the one that fixed the vibration issue?

Yes, this upgrade has gimbal firmware code that correctly calibrates the gimbal.
Going for example from 777 to 757 does not fix it, I have to go to 652 and fully upgrade from there to 777 in order to be fixed.

 

[record.play.rewind]

Gang, great news at work today, I found something very interesting.

I’ll post an other quick video, later.

 

[Frontier]

@Frontier if there is any way you can video that reflashing process, when you update next and pop it up on YT... I'm sure many pilots would benefit from being able to watch that step by step.

I will try to do a video and post it.
In the meantime, this is the procedure I've used to downgrade. Please check out this thread on how to extract the necessary firmware code from Typhoon H+ update packages.

To downgrade to 652, I've used update packages TYPHOONHPLUS_C23_E_1.0.08_BUILD652_20180507.yuneec (I have an EU version camera) for the aircraft and TYPHOONHPLUS_CONTROLLER_1.0.08_BUILD652_20180507.yuneec for the transmitter.

Aircraft
Use the files gimbal.yuneec, camera.bin from the TYPHOONHPLUS_C23_E_1.0.08_BUILD652_20180507.yuneec package.
Place each file one at a time on an empty microSD card inside the C23 camera (the transmitter is turned off).
Turn on the aircraft and observe the LED on C23: it should be red or purple when upgrading and green when each upgrade phase is complete.
The flash sequence for the aircraft is: 1) camera.bin, 2) gimbal.yuneec.
Do not upgrade autopilot.yuneec or you'll have to re-bind the transmitter with the aircraft again.

Transmitter
Place the file update.zip and the folder firmware (including it's subfolder tx with all contents) on an empty microSD card while your transmitter is switched off.
Turn on your transmitter and it will start flashing the files to the device, no need to do a factory reset from Android before flashing.

After completing the above steps, your aircraft and transmitter should be running Build 652.
Boot the transmitter and the aircraft, proceed in upgrading to the latest version (in our case, build 777) from within the Typhoon H Plus flight application and you're finished.

This procedure fixed my gimbal jello issue above.
I've followed it both on 757 and 777 upgrade.

 

[mbernholdt]

Gang, great news at work today, I found something very interesting.

I’ll post an other quick video, later.

Don't leave us hanging here.