Repairing a C23 camera

georgero · Sep 28, 2019

Yes I think you blow up the K fuse is no reason to panic. If you have a multimetter you can check that fuse but I am sure is that one if you don't have any movements in the camera.

ukaleq · Sep 28, 2019

Thanks, how can I check that this is the fuse? I set the multimeter to A (Ampere) and tried to contact both sides of the fuse so that the current would flow through the multimeter but nothing happened. Also tried to shortcut it with a wire, same (lack of) result.

Steve Carr · Sep 28, 2019

Remove the battery and check the fuse on Ohms. Touch the contacts on both sides of the fuse and you should see a very low reading about 1-3 ohms.

georgero · Sep 28, 2019

Also, you can put your multimeter on the sound if you have that feature. If you have sound when you touch the ends of the fuse that fuse is OK if no sound that fuse needs to be replaced.

ukaleq · Sep 29, 2019

georgero said:
Also, you can put your multimeter on the sound if you have that feature. If you have sound when you touch the ends of the fuse that fuse is OK if no sound that fuse needs to be replaced.

Yes that fuse is dead, but what I meant was more: how can I check that it is only the fuse. This is where I expected that shorting it would allow the camera to start. So perhaps another part of the circuit is damaged

(

Steve Carr · Sep 29, 2019

ukaleq said:
Yes that fuse is dead, but what I meant was more: how can I check that it is only the fuse. This is where I expected that shorting it would allow the camera to start. So perhaps another part of the circuit is damaged (

There may be a broken wire on those wires connected to the slip ring.

ukaleq · Sep 29, 2019

Ok my mistake! I repeated the experiment (shorting the fuse) and the camera starts up. So I guess I can send the drone to the same place that I intended to send the camera to, so that they can fix both the K fuse and the U.FL connector. The camera is still vibrating though...

Steve Carr · Sep 29, 2019

ukaleq said:
So I guess I can send the drone to the same place that I intended to send the camera to, so that they can fix both the K fuse and the U.FL connector.

Where are you sending it?

ukaleq said:
The camera is still vibrating though

You might be able to correct the vibration by downgrading the firmware and then reinstalling it.

ukaleq · Sep 30, 2019

Steve Carr said:
Where are you sending it?

You might be able to correct the vibration by downgrading the firmware and then reinstalling it.

Some electronic workshop that can solder components. I only have a shitty $8 soldering iron. What type of soldering iron would be good to do that work? But I guess it also takes some skills and is not just a matter of equipment.

Regarding the downgrade and upgrade, I tried that already, following Georgero's recommendation but it didn't work out unfortunately. Maybe I should try again, those firmware updates seem to be very capricious.

Steve Carr · Sep 30, 2019

ukaleq said:
What type of soldering iron would be good to do that work?

A small pencil tip iron will work. The easier method is to take a 2 amp fuse and solder a small short wire to each end and then solder the wires to each end of the fuse on the board. Essentially making a fused jumper. That way you don't risk overheating the board trying to remove the old fuse.

There is a thread regarding vibration on the E90 camera that occurs when the OA switch is on. Just a thought.

Tony Mazz · Feb 3, 2021

ukaleq said:
After discovering that the problems I had were related to a loose cable (TX cable disconnected from the connector board), I thought I would fix it by replacing the entire slip ring.

I had a spare slip ring for the CGO3 but it looks like the part is not the same (it is smaller on the C23) and the general design of the camera appears to be significantly different as well.

But another thing I discovered when removing the plastic cover of the C23 is that the connection to the clover leaf antenna is broken too. If that's indeed the antenna for the video downstream that would explain why I always had a bad video connection with this camera. Attached are pictures showing the connector that is detached from the board to which it was originally glued/soldered (?).

Now the question is: how could I do a proper repair myself? Any idea?

how do you get the cover off Please HELP

WTFDproject · Feb 3, 2021

Which cover? Are you talking about the camera cover, the gimbal mount, the top shell of the drone?
What are you trying to fix?
Also, which drone? (This thread wandered through a lot of different stuff.)

Tony Mazz · Feb 3, 2021

WTFDproject said:
Which cover? Are you talking about the camera cover, the gimbal mount, the top shell of the drone?
What are you trying to fix?
Also, which drone? (This thread wandered through a lot of different stuff.)

ok i got the gimbal cover off and got into taking apart so i can change slipring connection cable, ordered a new cable waiting for it to come in, this is very tedious job ,working on a c23 camera,

Mike Irish · Feb 3, 2021

Hi Tony. I have a small crack in the front housing of my C23 camera. I would like the change the front housing but I am afraid that I might do damage as I don't know how to remove it?
Cheers.
Mike

WTFDproject · Feb 3, 2021

Mike Irish said:
Hi Tony. I have a small crack in the front housing of my C23 camera. I would like the change the front housing but I am afraid that I might do damage as I don't know how to remove it?
Cheers.
Mike

Mike,
This is just about the most difficult camera cover I've ever seen. And it is pretty easy to damage the ribbon cables, which are difficult to find and difficult to replace. If you want to proceed, here are the instructions for removing the cover:
1.) Remove the black disks over hub covers. They are extremely hard to get off without damage unless you heat them up. A clean soldering iron seems to work as well as anything, but don't over do it. The surrounding plastic melts easily, and there are ribbons/sensors just below the covers. Apply heat ONLY to the center, especially stay away from the edges.
Caution: The left hub is sometimes actually glued to the ribbon cables just beneath it. Work carefully!!
2.) Remove the hubs (two screws each).
3.) Remove the four screws (two on each side) that are on the front half of the camera cover just in front of the axle.
Note: It is necessary to loosen the rear cover, even if you do not intend to remove it.
4.) Remove the four screws at the rear of the camera that hold the rear half of the case.
5.) Open the SD card slot, and make sure the rubber pegs are fully out. (Not detached, just out/open to avoid hanging on the stuff inside.)
6.) Remove the lens filter.
7.) With very moderate force, twist the front and rear cases a few times. You will feel NO movement, but it seems to help with the next steps.
8.) There are four tabs holding the front/rear together. They are located about where the edge of the flat part is. Two on bottom, two on top.
9.) Push DOWN firmly on FRONT side of the seam. At the same time, use your other hand to get a grip on the opening where the axle comes out, and lift UP on the rear side of the seam. They don't give up easy. Do some more twisting and try again as needed.

DO NOT allow yourself to push in on the camera nose. It will break the anchors on the nose ring.

Good luck.

Tony Mazz · Feb 3, 2021

Mike Irish said:
Hi Tony. I have a small crack in the front housing of my C23 camera. I would like the change the front housing but I am afraid that I might do damage as I don't know how to remove it?
Cheers.
Mike