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Require a lens hood?

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I went out this past weekend with my P3P, and because I didn;t have a lens hood (didn;t know I needed one), the video turned out with big rolling bands across it due to the shadow of the propellers. Does the Q500 also have this issue?
 
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I went out this past weekend with my P3P, and because I didn;t have a lens hood (didn;t know I needed one), the video turned out with big rolling bands across it due to the shadow of the propellers. Does the Q500 also have this issue?
Rarely...sometimes gets jello under extreme flight corrections...sometimes the shadow of the blades somehow gets recorded when the angle of the sun aligns with the lens...again, it rarely happens.
 

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Anytime the sun causes shadows across the sensor this can happen. It is just one of those things. I have had success using a homemade hood.
 
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Look for a video on YouTube about this. Otherwise, here's the quckie version: If you increase the frame rate or resolution of the video, it will go away. Try to reproduce the effect, then try changing the resolution and/or frame rate and see what happens.
 

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Look for a video on YouTube about this. Otherwise, here's the quckie version: If you increase the frame rate or resolution of the video, it will go away. Try to reproduce the effect, then try changing the resolution and/or frame rate and see what happens.
Have you tried this? How did it go for you?
 
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Yes, it does work. It's like this: when you see a film where the wheels on a car look like they're going backwards, or a television has lines through it... that is an issue with the frame rate not working between the camera and the object. The blades are out of sync with the frame speed of the video. I have had luck slowing down the frame rate, but it is possible that speeding it up would help too.
 

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Your describing what is known in the film world as the "wagon wheel" effect. The stop motion look to it occurs when the wheels match the frame rate and you see only parts of it (even the naked eye sees this although it is not fully understood why but there are theories). In the case of your props, they are constantly changing speeds thereby changing when the banding appears. Frame rate adjustment alone will not solve the issue in all instances. A hood will stop the light/shadows from entering and prevent most all banding caused by shadows.
 
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I am working on a lens hood solution anyway as the shadows of the props often make their way onto the lower portion of the video in other situations. Flare will also be reduced increasing contrast.

Rob
 
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I've had some thought on this. I want a hood like the one I use on my Canon DSLR lenses, so I've had some thought about making one out of thin black plastic. Not real sure yet how I would attach it and not void my warranty. Maybe attach it with some clear silicone??

Here's a rough idea of what I was thinking (renders not that good, but...)

HoodCover_320.jpg
 

Ari

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Here's a classic example of shutter speed sync with helicopter main rotors:

 
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I've had some thought on this. I want a hood like the one I use on my Canon DSLR lenses, so I've had some thought about making one out of thin black plastic. Not real sure yet how I would attach it and not void my warranty. Maybe attach it with some clear silicone??

Here's a rough idea of what I was thinking (renders not that good, but...)

View attachment 4132
If you look around at various plastic bottle necks, like a Coke bottle, dish washing liquid, shampoo, etc... and find one that might be the look/size you are going for then cut it down to size, get the spray paint made for plastic and spray it flat black. Or find some thin plastic sheet and go from scratch and make your own, then paint.
Then get a spare clear/UV filter like that comes with the CGO3 and glue the home made sun shade directly to the filter (in fact you might want to pop out the glass and just use the ring with the notches in it) then you could use the CGO3's notches to push/turn to lock it into place. That way you wouldn't be altering the camera at all just the filter ring. Probably a good idea to sand or scuff up the filter ring before you try to glue the sunshade in place just to make sure it gets a good bond. Then you could just re-spray the whole thing flat black to cover up the sanded areas and the glue in case you don't use black silicone. I've not looked close at mine so I'm not sure if the stock UV filter ring is plastic or metal.

I had the same banding in pictureYUNC0662F (Large).jpg experience when I was flying to take some pictures of my friends new house under construction!
Very annoying!
 
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I was very worried about this. I even wrote Yuneec tech support, sent them the video, etc. They suggested me to try taking footage at shorter distances and using a better SD card (which I did). The problem didn't go away, even when recording at 4K (25 fps), or at HD (30/60 fps).
Of course, the propellers' shadow explanation is way easier to understand/believe. I looked for shades for the CGO3, to no avail. There are for the DJI's Phantom series, but not for the Typhoon. I will need to build my own, I guess. Will report results.
Regards, all.
 
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If you're going to add some kind of lense hood onto your camera, try to keep it as light as possible. Otherwise the extra weight might affect the balance of camera on your gimbal, and make video less stable.
 

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