Strange "warning" sound from the H

[The Boathouse]

Had that happen when trying to take off in grass. The grass was tall and thick enough to put resistance on the camera gimbal.

 

[Photo]

Had that happen when trying to take off in grass. The grass was tall and thick enough to put resistance on the camera gimbal.

For me it was just a flat, clean area. Thanx anyway!

 

[YuneecAv8r]

Would you please provide a link to where it is said I made those statements? It's certainly not residing in the ST-16 Calibration thread linked above. Calibration is a very simple process and one I have done several times. In fact I was the first one that conveyed this beeping issue (AKA beeps of death) to Yuneec and we found the solution to the problem during the course of the phone call. I was also the first one to mention the secret menu in this forum and describe the process used for calibration. The only recommendation I will provide people that experience constant beeping is to use the ST-16 calibration procedure. It is what's required to effectively resolve the problem, and the only way you have to verify your system is functioning correctly. Do it or not, it's on you from this point forward.

 

[YuneecAv8r]

Hi Pat R. I am having the same issue. I have updated the firmware, done the three calibrations (compass, accelerometer, and gimbal) but still get the noise. The motors started on their own once. Would you post again, in detail, how to do the ST16 calibration. I would really appreciate it,

 

[Dr Delta]

Hi Pat R. I am having the same issue. I have updated the firmware, done the three calibrations (compass, accelerometer, and gimbal) but still get the noise. The motors started on their own once. Would you post again, in detail, how to do the ST16 calibration. I would really appreciate it,

Video

 

[PatR]

Since you asked so nicely I grabbed a You Tube link for a visual aid. The video quality is not great but all the important points are shown.

A couple of things I'd like to add that may make the end result a little better. I said may because I'm not sure but they have not caused me any harm and everything works every time after a calibration is done.

1) Remove the props from the H. I do my ST-16 calibrations with the H turned on and the gimbal free of the gimbal lock. The reason I do it this way is because I perform a new gimbal calibration immediately after every ST-16 calibration.

2) When trying to access the calibration menu, also known as "the secret menu", tap "About Controller" 4 or more times very quickly. It's supposed to go into the menu with 5 fast taps but it can be one or so either side of 5. If it doesn't go into the menu after 10 quick taps, exit System Settings and come back into it to start over.

3) Start each calibration page with the sliders and the gimbal knob centered. When finished with each slider and the gimbal knob, place them back in the center position before going to the next calibration page and/or before exiting the calibration menu. The reason for that in a moment.

4) Moving the sticks; The sticks have to be moved fully from top to bottom and side to side, hitting the stops, for the calibration to be effective. "Stirring" the sticks works just as well as long as the sticks stay in contact with the sides of the transmitter gimbal all the way around.

5) On the second page of the calibration menu, every stick, button, switch, knob, and tab has to be handled. Even the "non functional" black button at the upper right side of the ST-16. The D Pads have to be pressed in all 4 pad directions. The switches need to be moved upwards and downwards through each possible position. It does not matter what position they start out or end at. The red arming button needs to be depressed quickly. This is why the props were removed from the H. A quick push will not generally arm the system but better to be safe.

Exit the calibration menu by pressing the sideways "U" Return button on the bottom right side of the screen. Now it's time to perform a gimbal calibration. You already have the sliders and pan knob centered after the ST-16 calibration, which is critical when performing a gimbal calibration. If they do not start out in the center positions your gimbal will not move correctly and the range of motion will be limited when using the pan knob and slider. When the gimbal calibration is complete, turn everything off and put the props back on.

 

[YuneecAv8r]

Since you asked so nicely I grabbed a You Tube link for a visual aid. The video quality is not great but all the important points are shown.

A couple of things I'd like to add that may make the end result a little better. I said may because I'm not sure but they have not caused me any harm and everything works every time after a calibration is done.

1) Remove the props from the H. I do my ST-16 calibrations with the H turned on and the gimbal free of the gimbal lock. The reason I do it this way is because I perform a new gimbal calibration immediately after every ST-16 calibration.

2) When trying to access the calibration menu, also known as "the secret menu", tap "About Controller" 4 or more times very quickly. It's supposed to go into the menu with 5 fast taps but it can be one or so either side of 5. If it doesn't go into the menu after 10 quick taps, exit System Settings and come back into it to start over.

3) Start each calibration page with the sliders and the gimbal knob centered. When finished with each slider and the gimbal knob, place them back in the center position before going to the next calibration page and/or before exiting the calibration menu. The reason for that in a moment.

4) Moving the sticks; The sticks have to be moved fully from top to bottom and side to side, hitting the stops, for the calibration to be effective. "Stirring" the sticks works just as well as long as the sticks stay in contact with the sides of the transmitter gimbal all the way around.

5) On the second page of the calibration menu, every stick, button, switch, knob, and tab has to be handled. Even the "non functional" black button at the upper right side of the ST-16. The D Pads have to be pressed in all 4 pad directions. The switches need to be moved upwards and downwards through each possible position. It does not matter what position they start out or end at. The red arming button needs to be depressed quickly. This is why the props were removed from the H. A quick push will not generally arm the system but better to be safe.

Exit the calibration menu by pressing the sideways "U" Return button on the bottom right side of the screen. Now it's time to perform a gimbal calibration. You already have the sliders and pan knob centered after the ST-16 calibration, which is critical when performing a gimbal calibration. If they do not start out in the center positions your gimbal will not move correctly and the range of motion will be limited when using the pan knob and slider. When the gimbal calibration is complete, turn everything off and put the props back on.

Thank you for the detailed information. I will follow the instructions to the letter. The thing I didn't like at all was that the engines started on their own all at once. Hopefully I'll have a successful test flight. Take care and thank you for the information! Take care

 

[PatR]

When calibrating the red arming button only press and release it quickly. Don't hold it down and release. The arming process requires the button be depressed for a couple/few seconds. A quick press and release should not arm the motors.

 

[Dr Delta]

When calibrating the red arming button only press and release it quickly. Don't hold it down and release. The arming process requires the button be depressed for a couple/few seconds. A quick press and release should not arm the motors.

No need to calibrate ST-16 with the H online, so short press is sufficient to calibrate button.