Hello Pat, I searched and couldn't find the answer maybe you can help, the proaction grip, the gimbal control, if you push the button in the center and clicks is it suppose to activate the shutter and take the pic
Thinking of Buying a 920
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I haven't messed with the Pro Action since early December but IRRC the top button (Function Switch) did trigger the shutter. I would have to set up my Pro Action again to be certain. The instructions for both the 920 and the Plus mostly reference the mobile device for triggering stills or video but I'm not finding descriptive reference for the top button of the grip either.
Hi @PatR, could you elaborate on that? I would assume that shooting RAW stills would yield much better results that screenshots from compressed video. Given that I am mainly interested in stills, that sounds very scary.
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Perhaps I should.
The CGO-4 on the 920 Plus (that distinction was deliberate, I don't know how it all works with the 920) takes VERY good pictures, it's just establishing your are taking a good picture or a so-so picture is a bit difficult without a histogram. As the CGO-4 permits shooting 16/9, 4/3, 3/2, and 1/1 you have a lot of options. Highest resolution is in 4/3. Toss in even more by having the options of changing shutter, ISO, WB, and exposure compensation, manual or auto focus. There's also different lens options that provide even more flexibility and quality. But the ST-16 screen does not reflect image alterations with changes in the camera settings as well as it does for video. There's also what seems to be a modified Panasonic/Lumix RW-2 codec used for raw photography, which can be difficult to deal with. My Windows 10 machine does not want to recognize the RW-2 codec unless there is some other program associated with it. None of my Windows programs will open an RW-2 file and others have indicated similar problems. It requires "after market" processing programs to open one, although Microsoft's Photoscape will open one.
It's not that a CGO-4 won't shoot truly great photos, it's just that using photo mode is more difficult (for me) to master than it needs to be. Bracketing is, as always, the best way to assure you've captured what you what captured but we are dealing with a camera that is airborne and time spent bracketing is time depleted from a flight battery. With the video options available with the CGO-4 provides (mov, mp4, mp4-LPCM) along with bit rates up to 200 I just find it easier to run video and pull screen grabs from decent video processing programs. Your skill in still photography could be a lot better than mine and using the still settings may work out a lot better for you than they do for me. BTW, shooting with the mov format makes for nicer imagery. Convert to mp4 after processing if you wish.
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O.k. many thanks for the clarification and details about the difficulty of dealing with the RAW files!
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It is interesting that other CGO4 users have stated that they use video captures instead of stills. I just assumed they were more video oriented or lazy to switch modes. Others have stated that the video in comparison to the stills is the better of the 2 for quality. I assumed from that comparison that video was exceptional and the photos weren't far behind.
It's a very good camera for either purpose but for stills I would prefer it be mounted on a tri-pod with no time constraints instead of a rig limited through limited flight time. I'll put some unfinished video shorts on DropBox and post a link here for access. For general info purposes, my preference goes to shooting stills over video most any day. Videos, IMO, lean more to entertainment where stills are for capturing the moment or condition.
How are you coming along with the camera issues? BTW, I just noticed the spelling of your location. Creative[emoji4]
How are you coming along with the camera issues? BTW, I just noticed the spelling of your location. Creative[emoji4]
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Link to Dropbox folder; Dropbox - YuneecPilots
Let me know if there are problems accessing the files in the folder.
Reason for the linked folder is not to show my video editing skills as they aren't anything special. The reason is to illustrate camera video performance, horizons, edges, a little depth of field, and how orbit shots are not clipped or distorted as some other cameras will do. I'm still working on the best angles for "dolly type" shots where the aircraft is in forward motion capturing video with the camera shooting well off to the side. Some angles (exam; 90* off the nose) can be much to "busy" visually at speeds higher than a crawl.
Back to photo stuff; for still photos selecting 4/3 formatting provides the highest possible still resolution, providing essentially 4k quality. Selecting 16/9 for still photo sizing reduces max resolution to roughly 1080 quality. So if you want the highest possible still quality in a 16/9 format the only way to obtain it is to capture a screen grab from a video that was shot in 4k and use the program to render the frame in 16/9 formatting. Sounds complicated but it works pretty well.
I haven't tried shooting 4/3 and using a post program to convert it to 16/9 but I would expect enlarging/stretching a photo would reduce resolution or distort in some manner.
Let me know if there are problems accessing the files in the folder.
Reason for the linked folder is not to show my video editing skills as they aren't anything special. The reason is to illustrate camera video performance, horizons, edges, a little depth of field, and how orbit shots are not clipped or distorted as some other cameras will do. I'm still working on the best angles for "dolly type" shots where the aircraft is in forward motion capturing video with the camera shooting well off to the side. Some angles (exam; 90* off the nose) can be much to "busy" visually at speeds higher than a crawl.
Back to photo stuff; for still photos selecting 4/3 formatting provides the highest possible still resolution, providing essentially 4k quality. Selecting 16/9 for still photo sizing reduces max resolution to roughly 1080 quality. So if you want the highest possible still quality in a 16/9 format the only way to obtain it is to capture a screen grab from a video that was shot in 4k and use the program to render the frame in 16/9 formatting. Sounds complicated but it works pretty well.
I haven't tried shooting 4/3 and using a post program to convert it to 16/9 but I would expect enlarging/stretching a photo would reduce resolution or distort in some manner.
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North central California. I'll upload the windmill again. I cut out the early part that shows the wire the prop impacted
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I just stopped at a DJI dealer in Sioux Falls, SD. They said they were an authorized Yuneec service and sales dealer but gave up both as service wanted everything to go back to Yuneec.
They are willing to try and solder the broken wire but would prefer a replacement harness with the slip ring but Yuneec doesn't have that item on hand. Yuneec did offer to use a different harness from a 920 that's in the repair facility but I have to send it to them and I don't know if I want to wait for months. I'm torn on this one as it's not an easy at home fix.
Yeah were getting more snow, rain, sleet etc today along with 30 mph winds. On the bright side I did pass my 107 today. Much tougher than I thought it would be. So you old farts that thought I was to dumm to pass it
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Beats the crap outta me. I don't have any of that fancy stuff
Where the heck did Dougcjohn get off to? I hope I didn't tick him off in another forum.
Where the heck did Dougcjohn get off to? I hope I didn't tick him off in another forum.
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Beats the crap outta me. I don't have any of that fancy stuff
Where the heck did Dougcjohn get off to? I hope I didn't tick him off in another forum.
I was wondering the same thing. I'm also a little concerned that ya didn't give me crap about passing my 107. I might have to step up my A game on harassing you
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Might try the Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 EZ Lens. It is plug and play replacement for the Yuneec lens. It may be higher quality than the Yuneec lens. They both look good to me without correction. B&H has the Olympus lens for $199.
