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***UPDATE*** Typhoon H Rebuild

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Just bought a crashed Typhoon H today. Brand new to Yuneec. I have owned and serviced many DJI drones including: P3's, P4's, a Spark, Mavic, Inspire 1, and Mavic Air. I bought the Typhoon H cheap. Current state and parts needed:

Camera housing
Gimbal vertical arm
(2) motors
(2) (B) props

I think this will be an easy fix. I found props and the camera housing for cheap. So 2 questions. First off, the guy said 2 motors were bad. Only problem is, I can't start them up to figure out which motors are bad. How can I find out which ones are bad? And, where can I find a good deal on a used vertical gimbal arm? Anybody got one??


****UPDATE****

Got some props in today. The drone does fly just fine! The right landing gear would not retract but the left did. I ordered a camera frame on Ebay that will be here Friday. The camera DOES work and come on. However, I will need a screw kit and still need a gimbal vertical arm. If anyone has these parts plz let me know! Thanks!

Location: Winston Salem, NC
 
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Get on the Yuneec website and download the GUI for the Typhoon H. Run it as an admin on your Windows PC. It will also tell you if any internal parts show as bad.
 
Hook the Typhoon H to the GUI to see which motors are bad.

These links may help:
"Downloads Typhoon H"
"
"

Note that the prognosis of "two bad motors" is probably bad news. Very rare for a motor to be bad, fairly common for a speed controller to be bad. And the speed controllers are integral to the main ESC board.
 
Okay so just tried this. I got all the motors to come on and turn and it says everything is fine. But when I would manually cut the motors on (without props) and increase motor speed one would make a scratchy weird noise and the drone went into (5 motor mode) but the motor continued to turn. I don't have a prop to fly it yet but I don't know if it is safe to after that
 
It does however have an (X) on IPS and Real Sense. I do NOT have the remote or camera connected though. Everything else has a green check
 
That is Normal it won't Operate without the Props, it knows it's not under a load, but not when it's connected to the GUI, Let me Clarify-Don't put the Props on while it's on the GUI, the Motors make strange Noises with out the Props on.
 
That is Normal it won't Operate without the Props, it knows it's not under a load, but not when it's connected to the GUI, Let me Clarify-Don't put the Props on while it's on the GUI, the Motors make strange Noises with out the Props on.

Should they shake or rattle though? And why does that one motor send it into 5 motor mode
 
The Motors should not shake, but they will make strange sounds & show an Engine Loss without the Props on. Spin Each Motor and they shouldn't Drag, or Grind, and make sure there's no loose screws that may have been pulled into the Motors the Magnets are very Strong.
Make sure he ST16, Camera & the H are all updated. then Re-calibrate the ST16, Accelerometer, Gimbal & Compass, then "Go Fly it" >>>>> IN ANGLE MODE <<<<<<<<
 
We aren't there. We have to make guesses, based on your descriptions, and try to make comparisons with what we have seen before. You may have a bad motor. You may have debris in a motor. You may have a bad mosfet on the associated ESC.
It is not all that hard to swap motors and arms around. It might be a good idea to swap the "bad" arm and motor with another one, and give it another try. If the problem follows the motor, we need to talk about the motor. If the problems stays in the same place, we need to talk about the ESC.
 
Just bought a crashed Typhoon H today. Brand new to Yuneec. I have owned and serviced many DJI drones including: P3's, P4's, a Spark, Mavic, Inspire 1, and Mavic Air.

Than you will not have any problems. Repairing a Yuneec drone it is way easier for most parts of it.

We aren't there. We have to make guesses, based on your descriptions, and try to make comparisons with what we have seen before. You may have a bad motor. You may have debris in a motor. You may have a bad mosfet on the associated ESC.
It is not all that hard to swap motors and arms around. It might be a good idea to swap the "bad" arm and motor with another one, and give it another try. If the problem follows the motor, we need to talk about the motor. If the problems stays in the same place, we need to talk about the ESC.

Remember that also the ESCs have fuses on the lower side of the mainboard. With a little bit of luck they are broken. Best way to check this, is by removing the whole shell around the body and check each of the white fuses with a multimeter.

It would also not do any harm if you check the single white fuse on top of the mainboard. It is marked with the letter "K" and secures the current output to the camera. It is pretty likely to fail if the gimbal is prevented from moving freely. It is not uncommon that this happens in case of a crash.

And, where can I find a good deal on a used vertical gimbal arm? Anybody got one??

I got one but since this forum ist very international it might be hard to send it to you. Where are you from?
 
Than you will not have any problems. Repairing a Yuneec drone it is way easier for most parts of it.



Remember that also the ESCs have fuses on the lower side of the mainboard. With a little bit of luck they are broken. Best way to check this, is by removing the whole shell around the body and check each of the white fuses with a multimeter.

It would also not do any harm if you check the single white fuse on top of the mainboard. It is marked with the letter "K" and secures the current output to the camera. It is pretty likely to fail if the gimbal is prevented from moving freely. It is not uncommon that this happens in case of a crash.



I got one but since this forum ist very international it might be hard to send it to you. Where are you from?
 
Than you will not have any problems. Repairing a Yuneec drone it is way easier for most parts of it.



Remember that also the ESCs have fuses on the lower side of the mainboard. With a little bit of luck they are broken. Best way to check this, is by removing the whole shell around the body and check each of the white fuses with a multimeter.

It would also not do any harm if you check the single white fuse on top of the mainboard. It is marked with the letter "K" and secures the current output to the camera. It is pretty likely to fail if the gimbal is prevented from moving freely. It is not uncommon that this happens in case of a crash.



I got one but since this forum ist very international it might be hard to send it to you. Where are you from?


Winston Salem, NC 27051, US
 
I ran into the same behavior after first ,crash/re build. Running up the motor speed caused the 5 motor mode. After asking for help in the forum. Was told was normal. Have flown since, woth no flight issues
 
I ran into the same behavior after first ,crash/re build. Running up the motor speed caused the 5 motor mode. After asking for help in the forum. Was told was normal. Have flown since, woth no flight issues


Hoping to get it in the air once I get props. I guess I'll find out lol. I've been paranoid
 
I updated this post this morning. Also, I noticed my landing gear that does work only goes halfway up. What could be the problem?
 
I updated this post this morning. Also, I noticed my landing gear that does work only goes halfway up. What could be the problem?
Does the landing gear feel loose? Did you invert the H and cycle the gear a couple of times?
 
You could also try completely removing the bad one. The landing gear stops when EITHER side sees resistance. The bad one may just be keeping the good one from moving full travel.
 
You could also try completely removing the bad one. The landing gear stops when EITHER side sees resistance. The bad one may just be keeping the good one from moving full travel.
Is there a way to adjust their travel? I've noticed some of the legs rubbing against the foam inserts in the bag, some fit in easy others don't. Even on new ones.
 
Is there a way to adjust their travel?

I don't think so. They are "self adjusting" to a certain extent, in that they will get closer and closer to each other in the max up and max down positions during each cycle following maintenance, . But I think ultimately, full travel to the travel stops will be the final permanent adjustment.
 

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