Hi wtfdproject,thanks for input,more specifically I was wondering about the motors and the fixtures and the esc 's?
yuneec typhoon q500
- Thread starter Michael is yuneec
- Start date
Motors are identical. Some are gray, some black, otherwise the same.
Some of the older ESCs are version 4, the newer ones are Version 5. The two versions are interchangeable, but I have heard at least one comment that mixing them can increase the normal "wobble" associated with the Q500.
The compass is the same. I think. If there is a difference, I never noticed it.
Some minor variations occurred with the mainboard, but any of them work with any drone, except you may have to solder the camera wires.
Yuneec changed the way they connected the camera wires to the mainboard at least three times. All work exactly the same, they just attached the wires in different places by different means.
I believe some of the early landing gear had a tab on the landing gear, running through square holes in the body (I think). Later versions had latch tabs on the body, that came out through square holes in the landing gear. The replacements you get now days don't have a latch tab, and will work with either.
The early version had the rear receiver antenna wire running down the left landing gear. On later models, and most refurbished older models, the antenna wire is routed inside the left 'wing" support. Works the same electronically, but putting it in the wing makes it easier to remove the landing gear.
The receiver LED (normally) visible in the left wing is orange on newer models. On some, it was blue. And in a few cases, the receiver was mounted face down, and you can't see the LED at all. (bummer if you need to check the light)
The early receivers had a longer wire set. The receiver wires came out through a notch in the upper right corner inside the battery door, and connected to the mainboard pigtail that was routed out the same notch. The 4K model had shorter receiver wire, which joined with the mainboard pigtail via a "tap" harness inside the drone body. An extension of the tap came out through the notch in the battery door to allow access to the GUI.
Early models did not have the 4K "Hotshoe" camera mount, or the extra wiring harness that feeds it, or the small square hole in the body under the camera mount for the wire to exit.
Early models had six longer attachment screws along the main body joint, and shorter screws of the same diameter along the "wing" joint. Later models used the shorter screws for both.
The cameras came in a couple options, and evolved to the 4K CGo3. The Q500 series version of the CG03 uses either hotshoe or pigtail. The Blade Chroma version uses only pigtail, and has a notch in the camera guard specifically for the pigtail. And the Chroma version is white instead of black.
Of course, the later bodies (airframes) are a different color.
All of these are pretty much details. With a little ingenuity, you can swap things around without too much trouble.
I hope you enjoy these birds as much as I do.
Some of the older ESCs are version 4, the newer ones are Version 5. The two versions are interchangeable, but I have heard at least one comment that mixing them can increase the normal "wobble" associated with the Q500.
The compass is the same. I think. If there is a difference, I never noticed it.
Some minor variations occurred with the mainboard, but any of them work with any drone, except you may have to solder the camera wires.
Yuneec changed the way they connected the camera wires to the mainboard at least three times. All work exactly the same, they just attached the wires in different places by different means.
I believe some of the early landing gear had a tab on the landing gear, running through square holes in the body (I think). Later versions had latch tabs on the body, that came out through square holes in the landing gear. The replacements you get now days don't have a latch tab, and will work with either.
The early version had the rear receiver antenna wire running down the left landing gear. On later models, and most refurbished older models, the antenna wire is routed inside the left 'wing" support. Works the same electronically, but putting it in the wing makes it easier to remove the landing gear.
The receiver LED (normally) visible in the left wing is orange on newer models. On some, it was blue. And in a few cases, the receiver was mounted face down, and you can't see the LED at all. (bummer if you need to check the light)
The early receivers had a longer wire set. The receiver wires came out through a notch in the upper right corner inside the battery door, and connected to the mainboard pigtail that was routed out the same notch. The 4K model had shorter receiver wire, which joined with the mainboard pigtail via a "tap" harness inside the drone body. An extension of the tap came out through the notch in the battery door to allow access to the GUI.
Early models did not have the 4K "Hotshoe" camera mount, or the extra wiring harness that feeds it, or the small square hole in the body under the camera mount for the wire to exit.
Early models had six longer attachment screws along the main body joint, and shorter screws of the same diameter along the "wing" joint. Later models used the shorter screws for both.
The cameras came in a couple options, and evolved to the 4K CGo3. The Q500 series version of the CG03 uses either hotshoe or pigtail. The Blade Chroma version uses only pigtail, and has a notch in the camera guard specifically for the pigtail. And the Chroma version is white instead of black.
Of course, the later bodies (airframes) are a different color.
All of these are pretty much details. With a little ingenuity, you can swap things around without too much trouble.
I hope you enjoy these birds as much as I do.
