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Zoom on the c23

johnnyb57

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Noticed today the zoom doesnt change by taping 2X, and so on ? Noticed that the the button at the top above the mode icon doesnt change to 1X with the magnifying + around it it stays with the box thing ? How do I correct this ?
 
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Mine will not change zoom unless I stop recording. I have no idea if that is normal, I never used it except ONCE to try it out. I'm on build 822.
Yea, On one of mine its works, the other it does not, both H+'s and this is in picture mode, as far as video you have to stop recording, change it, then start recording again ? Its either a setting, or the firmware ? When I tap the 2X l hear the tap sound, but thats it ?
 
The zoom feature was not widely available until Build 822, and may not function if any part or your system is still running on an earlier build. Especially if the date on your camera firmware is older than 20190312. Check your update screen to ensure all the listed firmware dates are equal to or greater than listed in this image:
Build 822.png
 
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The zoom feature was not widely available until Build 822, and may not function if any part or your system is still running on an earlier build. Especially if the date on your camera firmware is older than 20190312. Check your update screen to ensure all the listed firmware dates are equal to or greater than listed in this image:
View attachment 20779
Thats it, I guess I'll have to update ?
 
Thats it, I guess I'll have to update ?
Yes. Updates come with risk. The potential for updating into a gimbal vibration situation is a concern. And many folks unfamiliar with the update process have bricked their systems. If your system is functioning normally, and if you don't really need the zoom feature, I hope you will consider the risk/benefits of doing the update.
If you decide an update is warranted, the video in the post linked below is worth reviewing. I would add that the main pitfall of updates are the "dead" periods. Several times in the process, all lights will go out, camera will go limp, controller shuts down, and there is no evidence anything is happening. Folks think the update has failed, and turn things off. The update has not failed. The "dead times" are normal, and can last several minutes. If you turn things off, you are interrupting an update in progress. The result is often a brick. Not sure how well that comes across in the video. But you need to be aware of it.

Official Yuneec Update Tutorial Video
 
Yes. Updates come with risk. The potential for updating into a gimbal vibration situation is a concern. And many folks unfamiliar with the update process have bricked their systems. If your system is functioning normally, and if you don't really need the zoom feature, I hope you will consider the risk/benefits of doing the update.
If you decide an update is warranted, the video in the post linked below is worth reviewing. I would add that the main pitfall of updates are the "dead" periods. Several times in the process, all lights will go out, camera will go limp, controller shuts down, and there is no evidence anything is happening. Folks think the update has failed, and turn things off. The update has not failed. The "dead times" are normal, and can last several minutes. If you turn things off, you are interrupting an update in progress. The result is often a brick. Not sure how well that comes across in the video. But you need to be aware of it.

Official Yuneec Update Tutorial Video
I really like the zoom feature, so i'll try the update after l retain as much as possible ? Who, or how to unbrick it should this happen ? Also what about the cards, do they play a role in this ?
 
Last edited:
Yes. Updates come with risk. The potential for updating into a gimbal vibration situation is a concern. And many folks unfamiliar with the update process have bricked their systems. If your system is functioning normally, and if you don't really need the zoom feature, I hope you will consider the risk/benefits of doing the update.
If you decide an update is warranted, the video in the post linked below is worth reviewing. I would add that the main pitfall of updates are the "dead" periods. Several times in the process, all lights will go out, camera will go limp, controller shuts down, and there is no evidence anything is happening. Folks think the update has failed, and turn things off. The update has not failed. The "dead times" are normal, and can last several minutes. If you turn things off, you are interrupting an update in progress. The result is often a brick. Not sure how well that comes across in the video. But you need to be aware of it.

Official Yuneec Update Tutorial Video
By watching that video seems easy enough, but I know theres got to be more to it ? What should I be aware of, sort of the do's, and dont's
 
The thing to remember about the zoom is that it is digital. You can achieve the same thing in post processing with much better results. From a photography/videography standpoint the zoom is totally useless.

The zoom was implemented more for people using the H+ in a Search and Rescue role. They can maintain clearance and zoom in on an area of interest without jeopardizing the aircraft.
 
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I really like the zoom feature, so i'll try the update after l retain as much as possible ? Who, or how to unbrick it should this happen ? Also what about the cards, do they play a role in this ?
I really like the zoom feature, so i'll try the update after l retain as much as possible ? Who, or how to unbrick it should this happen ? Also what about the cards, do they play a role in this ?
Who, or how to unbrick it should this happen ?
I don't know enough to speak to unbrick in general. Sometimes if things hang up, you can use SD cards to restart the update. But I am sure there are other times when it would require more help.

Also what about the cards, do they play a role in this ?
The OTA update described in the video is easier if it works, and only requires a blank SD card in the camera. The SD card updates are mainly for downgrading, and maybe one way to get out of trouble if needed.
 
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By watching that video seems easy enough, but I know theres got to be more to it ? What should I be aware of, sort of the do's, and dont's

The dead spots are the most common trap. With that said, sometimes it does go legitimately dead. The only way to tell the difference is to wait. If the system normally comes back to visible life within a few minutes. If it does not respond for about 10 minutes, you have to shut everything down and try to restart the update. I've had that happen only twice. Both times restarted and completed normally. But that's not enough "history" to have much faith in.

Figure out how you want to use the video. Sounds like you've watched it to get a general idea. That is very good. I think most folks watch it one action at a time, pause the video while taking the action, then move to the next. Trying to memorize the entire sequence doesn't work for me. Be sure you understand the part where you leave the update process momentarily to bind the controller to the camera.
 
Who, or how to unbrick it should this happen ?
I don't know enough to speak to unbrick in general. Sometimes if things hang up, you can use SD cards to restart the update. But I am sure there are other times when it would require more help.

Also what about the cards, do they play a role in this ?
The OTA update described in the video is easier if it works, and only requires a blank SD card in the camera. The SD card updates are mainly for downgrading, and maybe one way to get out of trouble if needed.
Ok, so leave the card in the controller as is, and format the camera card so its blank ? One more question if you dont mind my front leds (white) ones not on, so I replaced it, still not on then in the advanced menu I noticed its in the off position with the led still on, then i switch it on go to the menu again its in the off position ? What could cause this ? I'm going to check again to make sure the leds are plugged into the right plugs ?
 
Not sure. I don't fly with LEDs off, so all I could do was try to duplicate what you see. One way I was able to make mine behave as you describe was put the controller in manual mode, shut down the controller first, drone second. Then I restarted drone first, then controller, and had the issue you describe.
I normally start the controller first, and shut it down last. And I don't use Manual mode.
 
Not sure. I don't fly with LEDs off, so all I could do was try to duplicate what you see. One way I was able to make mine behave as you describe was put the controller in manual mode, shut down the controller first, drone second. Then I restarted drone first, then controller, and had the issue you describe.
I normally start the controller first, and shut it down last. And I don't use Manual mode.
I havnt done manual mode, and always turn the controller on first, and off last ? Next I'll remove the top cover to make sure I didnt pull another boob move ? Just seems odd
 

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