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After upgrading my ST16 do I need to do a firmware upgrade?

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So this morning I did 2 flights, both with the stock antenna's (but the 3, not the original 2 that I had when it was just the stock unmodified ST16).
The first flight was fine, I flew till the ST16 joysticks were no longer controlling the Typhoon H and then I used the RTH feature. I would say I didn't get any less or more significant distance than the flight I had done with the 4hawks antenna, but that was based on the view of my naked eye, not on exact distance recorded by my telemetry info (I forgot to look at the distance to see how far it went).

The 2nd flight is where things got interesting. I removed the camera and prepared to send it up again. So, if the post above saying I would love to see a flight without a camera was joking, or just a throw away thought/sentence... I fell for it ;)
I started the ST16 and H up, the H got RC connection, but not the wifi (I assume because no camera).
I hit the red button and it fired up so i took off and flew to the same area as the previous flight.. Here is where I am going by memory, so I hope I give the right order of what I did.
I had the same loss of control and need to hit the RTH as earlier, and the H began to come back.
I then noticed it was still trying to connect to wifi (that message was on the screen) so I used the back arrow to remove the message... but then I noticed nothing I could do would make any difference even when the H was back to where I took off and above me. In other words, when I flicked the RTH off, I still didn't have control.. I couldn't make it move anywhere. So it just hovered above me for sometime.
What I did next was probably silly.. but like anything else in life (especially my cellphone or computers etc), when it doesn't work... reset and start again... So, with that thought in mind.. I turned off and back on the ST16 hoping it would then allow it to connect to the H that was hovering right above me... it didn't .. so, I just hung around another 20 mins or so and waited for it to run the battery dead and then the H came back down with all lights flashing under the engines and I caught it as it landed.
I wasn't able to turn it off, so I just pulled the battery and then turned the ST16 off.
It was a nervous wait waiting for the battery to die enough for it to want to land, because I didnt want it to drift into a tree or something. It did well in where it came down, it was pretty much right where I took off.

I am guessing that the turning the ST16 off during flight to reset is a bad move and won't try that again, no matter what message is on the screen. And, pathetic as this sounds, at least now I understand that the camera is a wifi connection and the H is an RC connection. I had never really stopped to think of which part of things connected to the ST16 as far as RC or wifi etc.

With all that in mind.. Good luck looking at the flight logs.
I also have a new RC card arriving next week to put into the H to connect to the antenna's if needed. If I need to replace the card in my ST16 I may just go the route of getting a whole new ST16 with the 3 antenna' already installed to save time and effort. I have seen them new/ish online for around $120.
 

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DoomMeister

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I'll take a look at your latest flights in a little while.

I finally took a test flight with mine today. First outing since making the antenna mod on the ST16. The first flight is with the stock antennas to a distance of 600 meters. I stopped at that distance because I did not want to cross over a busy road. The second flight was with the Itelite antenna to a distance of 625 meters. You will notice a drop to redundancy right at the start of the flight when I did the climb out and failed to point the antenna face at the aircraft. You see the gain in signal again as I gain latitude and the aircraft enters the radiation pattern of the antenna. Edit: The last two sentences were a misread on my part. The very beginning of the fsk_rssi plot is showing just the RC connection. At 45:52 you see where the camera connected and control redundancy is established. I didn’t realize what the lack of a camera looked like until observing the telemetry of @Seachange01 when he removed the camera. Learn something new each day.
Kit stock 600 meters.jpg
Kit stock Ele Histo.png
Kit with stock antennas.png
All the above are from stock antenna flight

Kit Itelite 625 meters.jpg
Kit Itelite Ele Histo.png
Kit with Itelite antenna.png The last three images are using the Itelite antenna

These are posted for comparison purposes with those of @Seachange01
 
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Flight 00089 is from 2/19/21 and I assume you still had the 4Hawks attached at that time. Flights 00090 and 00091 are from 2/21/21. The camera removal actually shows at the end of flight 00090 and we do not regain telemetry until the aircraft is right above the controller and ready to descend. The flights all occurred in the same area as flight 00088 so I'm not posting Google Earth screen grabs.

00089 with 4Hawks.png
00089 on 2/19/21 with 4Hawks

00090 stock with camera.png
00090 on 2/21/21 with stock antennas and camera during first leg, without camera just before the 59:00 mark

00091 without camera.png
00091 stock antennas without camera (recovery from LOS in 00090)
 

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There is definitely an issue with the 2.4 GHz Zigbee RC on your system. You are dropping to 5.8 GHz redundancy as early as 200 meters at times and then do not regain the 2.4 GHz RC until the aircraft is back close to you. You can compare the top graphs in brown between yours and mine to see the difference. The blank areas are where the 5.8 GHz redundancy is being used in favor of the 2.4 GHz RC.

The next course of action is to determine whether the issue is with the aircraft, the controller, or both. This may be a good time to buy or borrow a multimeter so you can verify connections by using the ohmmeter function. We will be glad to teach you how to use it properly.
 
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There is definitely an issue with the 2.4 GHz Zigbee RC on your system. You are dropping to 5.8 GHz redundancy as early as 200 meters at times and then do not regain the 2.4 GHz RC until the aircraft is back close to you. You can compare the top graphs in brown between yours and mine to see the difference. The blank areas are where the 5.8 GHz redundancy is being used in favor of the 2.4 GHz RC.

The next course of action is to determine whether the issue is with the aircraft, the controller, or both. This may be a good time to buy or borrow a multimeter so you can verify connections by using the ohmmeter function. We will be glad to teach you how to use it properly.
Thanks so much.
I will definitely get a multimeter, and yup, will totally need someone to show me what to do with it lol
So, I have bought a replacement card and its on its way in the mail. I felt like if it turned out to not be needed, then it was a good spare part to have anyway, but if it is needed, then I am a step closer to having it. Can I confirm is he 2.4 card inside the ST16 the same as the card in the H unit itself, or are they different cards?
I hope that isnt a dumb question. It just helps me know if its a case of using the card I have coming if its needed inside the ST16, or if I need another one.
I am also happy to spend the extra money on a new ST16 3 antenna unit if needed too.
Thanks again,
Alan
 
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Can I confirm is he 2.4 card inside the ST16 the same as the card in the H unit itself, or are they different cards?
All SR24 cards are the same. You should do a binding procedure with the new card.

I am also happy to spend the extra money on a new ST16 3 antenna unit if needed too.
Don't waste your money Three antennas is a marketing trick. They aren't better themselves, the third antenna doesn't give anything more.

Much better is to find where is the issue and to repair the affected device.
 
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All SR24 cards are the same. You should do a binding procedure with the new card.


Don't waste your money Three antennas is a marketing trick. They aren't better themselves, the third antenna doesn't give anything more.

Much better is to find where is the issue and to repair the affected device.
Hey Thanks for the info :)
I just meant if I needed to spend $70 on a multimeter and then $30 or so on parts repairing my ST16, then I could just spend a little more and end up with a new one and save the work and money on parts/tools etc.
 
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I just meant if I needed to spend $70 on a multimeter and then $30 or so on parts repairing my ST16, then I could just spend a little more and end up with a new one and save the work and money on parts/tools etc.
Multimeter - 7 bucks;
Parts - probably zero cents;
Knowledge - invaluable.

Where did you see a multimeter for 70?
Yes, a second ST16 to borrow for a few days for tests will be reasonable. To buy a working one from a close friend, too. But why you think someone will sell something useful in the US eBay?

Don't forget, this is just the US.
 
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Multimeter - 7 bucks;
Parts - probably zero cents;
Knowledge - invaluable.

Where did you see a multimeter for 70?
Yes, a second ST16 to borrow for a few days for tests will be reasonable. To buy a working one from a close friend, too. But why you think someone will sell something useful in the US eBay?

Don't forget, this is just the US.
I think there are people who sell ST16's that were once with a crashed and destroyed Typhoon H, also some that may have been returned with Typhoon H's that are sold to 3rd parties and parted out.
The Multimeter I mentioned is :-
 
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All SR24 cards are the same. You should do a binding procedure with the new card.


Don't waste your money Three antennas is a marketing trick. They aren't better themselves, the third antenna doesn't give anything more.

Much better is to find where is the issue and to repair the affected device.
as far as buying a 3 antenna unit, I just meant that I originally had a 2 Antenna ST16, and upgraded it to a 3 Antenna unit (I did the modification) so that I could put a 4hawks or Itelite Antenna on it. I would assume now that if I were to think of my unit as not worth fixing, then the replacement unit I would want would already have the 3 Antenna's on it to save me having to mess around doing the upgrade again.
 
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Nothing like getting your own multimeter to leave you feeling even more of a novice ;)
So do I need to select a particular "strength" for an ohms read? It seems to be in a group of varying strengths.
 

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DoomMeister

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Sorry for the delay. Had a chore to do.

When measuring center pin to center pin and outer case to outer case use your 400 Ohm range setting. You want readings less than 1 Ohm for these (continuity).

When measuring center pin to outer casing use the 4M setting. You want to see O.L. or very high MegaOhm readings (no continuity).
 
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I think its maybe the little wifi looking symbol I should select
Sorry for the delay. Had a chore to do.

When measuring center pin to center pin and outer case to outer case use your 400 Ohm range setting. You want readings less than 1 Ohm for these (continuity).

When measuring center pin to outer casing use the 4M setting. You want to see O.L. or very high MegaOhm readings (no continuity).
Tested all 3 of these.
They each showed the values they should. (Below 1 on center to center and outer to outer, and then O.L when checking center to outer.
 

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The next ones should be the IPX to SMA cables in the ST16 and in the aircraft. Use the same method of center to center, outer to outer, and center to outer when checking these cables.

You can use the WiFi looking symbol also. It will give you an audible indication for continuity.
 
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The next ones should be the IPX to SMA cables in the ST16 and in the aircraft. Use the same method of center to center, outer to outer, and center to outer when checking these cables.

You can use the WiFi looking symbol also. It will give you an audible indication for continuity.
So one last question (well, I hope so anyway lol), When I get the value showing, it kinda bounces around a little and then settles on the low (below 1) value. Is that normal and OK? Or is it just meant to touch and then solidly show a below 1 value?
Thanks,
Alan
 

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It will usually bounce around and then settle. Part of that is just getting the test lead to make solid consistent contact. Working on small stuff is more difficult to do that. Sounds like you are progressing nicely.

Keep us posted on the results from the other wires.
 
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It will usually bounce around and then settle. Part of that is just getting the test lead to make solid consistent contact. Working on small stuff is more difficult to do that. Sounds like you are progressing nicely.

Keep us posted on the results from the other wires.
sooooooo....
um... ah .... um...
I'm just a little embarrassed here, like, on a scale of 1 to 10 ... about a solid 40.
The 2 clips for the RC card inside the ST16... that one that had popped off last time was off again.
Either I didn't do it up properly, or it popped off again.
I can only assume I didn't do it up properly, because they shouldn't just come off. Its not like I am violent with the ST16.
Anyway, It's back on, all done up, and I am feeling... well... kinda like this guy ;)
Tomorrow afternoon I will head out for a flight and see if I can do better.
Should I try again with no camera, or with a camera? I am fine either way
 

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Test with the camera on and we’ll take a look at the flight data.

I am a bit concerned about the same connector coming loose again. Hoping the connector on the Zigbee card is not damaged. Those connectors are bit touchy. You should feel a light click as it fully seats together.
 
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Test with the camera on and we’ll take a look at the flight data.

I am a bit concerned about the same connector coming loose again. Hoping the connector on the Zigbee card is not damaged. Those connectors are bit touchy. You should feel a light click as it fully seats together.
I have to admit that I too am a little concerned about it coming loose again. I am hoping I just didnt click it in properly. I definitely felt it click in tonight, and I was sure I did last time, but time will tell.
So... I have actually bought (an received) a spare RC card that is the one that goes inside the H itself and has the 2 antenna lines coming off it.
Would that card work inside the ST16 as well if the zigbee card is damaged? or are they actually different cards?
They look identical to my untrained eye.
Further to that, why is it the card inside the H is plastic heat/shrink wrapped, but the one inside the ST16 is not?
 

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