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Anyone try HDR with the Typhoon H - Left D Pad?

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This evening was very cold and overcast.... Dull looking. Since the last two firmware updates added the Exposure Value control to the left "D-PAD", I thought it would be handy if one wanted to do a Bracket Exposure.

Since the Typhoon can hold it's position in the sky pretty well, I thought it should work. A Bracket Exposure just means that you take more than one picture (usually 3) at different exposures. So you take one picture properly exposed, then one picture under exposed and one picture over-exposed. Then you stick all three together into a photo program (like Photoshop) and you tell it to make an HDR image out of the 3 shots. (5 photos also works very well).

Now remember, it was a dull cold evening tonight with little sun so my photos are lacking "contrast - punch", but when you over and under expose them and stick them together into one photo, the results are not too bad. I'll have to try it on a sunny morning when there is plenty of contrast... pics should then looking amazing!

With the Exposure now being on the left D-PAD (up and down), taking images fast and different exposures is possible.

BELOW: You have the Original (properly exposed photo... I'm not showing the over and under exposed photos), and then the HDR photo.

PIC1.jpg

PIC1 - 3 images HDR.jpg





PIC2.jpg

PIC2 - 3 images HDR.jpg
 
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You seem to get some amazing shots there captain thanks for the lesson are you going to make a video on this
 

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I have been shooting sunsets and closing down the EVO to where only things on the ground the sun is hitting sparkle. It's a very interesting digital video trick the CGO3 is capable of. I'm getting editing software going this weekend. The added camera controls make for some interesting quick exposure changes and ups the H creativity quite a bit.
 
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I enjoy what you got with the first example however your second HDR composite looks cartoonish...the color for me looks overly saturated and it seems like more was done than just merging the three images. In most situations I need accurate color for landscapes. Thanks for showing us what can be done via HDR. I use it mostly for indoor architectural shoots where I need outdoor and indoor light balanced. By the way what is the exposure latitude allowable utilizing the "D-Pad" how many stops can you vary the exposure? How many stops did you vary the exposures seen here? Thanks for taking the time to provide samples. I also agree on a bright day you would get more pleasing results with an increased contrast evident.
 
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I have been having good results with sunsets using HDR and bracketing on the H. I have a question though about the camera settings as I am quite new to the cgo3+.
If you go into manual mode to get access to the shutter and ISO settings, then use the trim pad to vary the EV, does the manually set shutter and ISO hold the values set in manual mode?
I have not had enough time to play with this, but when you have the ISO and shutter speed settings on the screen and tap the yaw trim, it flicks into EV mode and I am not sure if the other settings are still locked at the manually set values.YUN00024-2.jpg
 
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I enjoy what you got with the first example however your second HDR composite looks cartoonish...the color for me looks overly saturated and it seems like more was done than just merging the three images. In most situations I need accurate color for landscapes. Thanks for showing us what can be done via HDR. I use it mostly for indoor architectural shoots where I need outdoor and indoor light balanced. By the way what is the exposure latitude allowable utilizing the "D-Pad" how many stops can you vary the exposure? How many stops did you vary the exposures seen here? Thanks for taking the time to provide samples. I also agree on a bright day you would get more pleasing results with an increased contrast evident.
The program I placed the 3 shots in to create one shot does some crazy things with the HDR to highlight (or not highlight) many things. I just turned the dull boring photo into something with a bit more color splash.

I believe (from memory) the exposure goes 2 stops in either direction (over expose/under expose). Since it was such a dull day, I maxed the exposure out in each direction.
 
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I have added expsoure bracketing to the the typhoon camera app. Will be published very soon. The app takes 3 consecutive pictures with different iso values automatically. It needs some more testing, but works pretty good right now.
Cool! How are you able to integrate this into the existing camera interface?
 
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I have been having good results with sunsets using HDR and bracketing on the H. I have a question though about the camera settings as I am quite new to the cgo3+.
If you go into manual mode to get access to the shutter and ISO settings, then use the trim pad to vary the EV, does the manually set shutter and ISO hold the values set in manual mode?
View attachment 3861
If you set the shutter speed to manual and then try to change the Exposure Value, it pretty much does nothing. In order to get the Exposure Value to work (at least in my attempts in CAMERA mode) you have to leave the ISO/Shutter Speed on Auto.
 
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If you set the shutter speed to manual and then try to change the Exposure Value, it pretty much does nothing. In order to get the Exposure Value to work (at least in my attempts in CAMERA mode) you have to leave the ISO/Shutter Speed on Auto.
OK, thanks. That is what I suspected as after setting ISO and shutter, tapping the trim throws it to EV and the top icon jumps back to A.
 
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Thanks CaptainDrone I've got a new lens arriving soon I will test it out ...I hope it is 2 stops...In Iceland I may try it with Northern Lights.
 
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Thanks CaptainDrone I've got a new lens arriving soon I will test it out ...I hope it is 2 stops...In Iceland I may try it with Northern Lights.
That would be nice! I grew up seeing the Northern Lights most evenings in my home town in eastern Canada. Now that I live in a different Canadian City, I rarely see the Northern Lights.
 

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