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Calibration tests

guys, the problem @janjfrench is having is the result of following one of the many youTube videos that are WRONG. Any calibration that does not return the controllers to CENTER before finishing the first step is going to result in that stick having only partial travel. For example, If you finish the first step with the slider at the TOP. you will only have the bottom half control. I recommend you ensure you are doing calibration in accordance with this video, which is done correctly:

If you did a calibration with an actual problem with ANY controller, you pretty much have a problem.
I did a calibration several weeks ago. When JesseG first posted here i checked things in the Hardware monitor and everything behaved normally. Other things came up and just to refresh my memory I rechecked and noted these strange indications. I opened the ST16 and see that the sliders directly drive a couple of pots. I'll insect visually a bit more and re-calibrate per the video. I don't have much hope that re-calibration will help but I'm at a loss as to what else to try.
 
[QUOTE/] I'll insect visually a bit more and re-calibrate per the video. I don't have much hope that re-calibration will help but I'm at a loss as to what else to try.[/QUOTE]

You may not have to re-inspect.
Try this:
1.) Cycle all sticks / sliders / knobs vigorously for a about a minute.
2.) Ignore any bad reading in hardware monitor.
3.) Redo the calibration according to the good video.
4.) THEN check hardware monitor.
 
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It worked! The procedure in the video was exactly what I had done previously. I flew today and noted no abnormal camera behavior. It's likely that anyone reading this will think that I screwed up somehow in the calibration. I may have done something to cause this strange behavior but I can't think of what it might be. I'm not going to worry about it further. I do appreciate the advice to re-calibrate and if left on my own I would have attempted it but I would have spent a lot of time investigating other possibilities before I got around to it. I hope JesseG has the same good results. It wasn't clear in the video but I did leave K2 and K3 indicating as close to 2048 as possible prior to exiting. I also did that at the conclusion of my previous calibration. Thank you again!
 
@jandjfrench ,
What you described above sounded very much like a typical scenario related to that calibration procedure. It has happened many times since folks started doing this stuff, back in the ST10 controllers.
Here is the typical story:
1.) A problem is noted in controller performance.
2.) A check of the hardware monitor shows anomalies in controller response.
3.) No actual repair is performed. (Usually cleaning or exercising the controller would be all that is needed)
4.) Instead of actual repair, the calibration procedure is performed.
5.) Hardware Monitor is checked, and all looks good. (The program is now accommodating the anomaly)
6.) Maybe do several flights, no problems.
7.) Then, without warning, everything goes south.
What happened? The anomaly, which was never repaired, has now shifted. Maybe to something else bad, but more likely, it just cleaned itself up, and is sending correct signals. But the controller is acting up because you programmed the anomaly into it, and the anomaly is either gone, or has shifted to something else.
 
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@jandjfrench ,
Please note carefully that you MAY just be back to item 5.) in the last post. If cycling the controllers did not truly repair the issue, the new calibration would again disguise it, and it may show up again later.

Please ALWAYS check Hardware Monitor prior to first flight of each day. That gives you a much better chance to NOT find the problem while in flight.
 
@jandjfrench ,
Please note carefully that you MAY just be back to item 5.) in the last post. If cycling the controllers did not truly repair the issue, the new calibration would again disguise it, and it may show up again later.

Please ALWAYS check Hardware Monitor prior to first flight of each day. That gives you a much better chance to NOT find the problem while in flight.
I don't subscribe to your theory that my previous calibration masked a problem. What I do find very strange is that both controls acted similarly. With either slider at the top of its range, applying pressure resulted in the display showing the control jumping from the center to the top. Both controls acted the same..
 
I don't subscribe to your theory that my previous calibration masked a problem. What I do find very strange is that both controls acted similarly. With either slider at the top of its range, applying pressure resulted in the display showing the control jumping from the center to the top. Both controls acted the same..

And what I find very strange is that you would describe the effects of a calibration done WRONG, and somehow imply it as proof that your first calibration was done properly. You said this, even though you reported success when you performed the second calibration correctly.
 
@jandjfrench ,
What you described above sounded very much like a typical scenario related to that calibration procedure. It has happened many times since folks started doing this stuff, back in the ST10 controllers.
Here is the typical story:
1.) A problem is noted in controller performance.
2.) A check of the hardware monitor shows anomalies in controller response.
3.) No actual repair is performed. (Usually cleaning or exercising the controller would be all that is needed)
4.) Instead of actual repair, the calibration procedure is performed.
5.) Hardware Monitor is checked, and all looks good. (The program is now accommodating the anomaly)
6.) Maybe do several flights, no problems.
7.) Then, without warning, everything goes south.
What happened? The anomaly, which was never repaired, has now shifted. Maybe to something else bad, but more likely, it just cleaned itself up, and is sending correct signals. But the controller is acting up because you programmed the anomaly into it, and the anomaly is either gone, or has shifted to something else.

We are seeing this quite a bit lately as people bring their birds out of winter storage. A good share of the problem is that Yuneec uses standard potentiometers on the dials, sliders, and sticks of it’s controllers unlike the better class RC controllers that use optical sensors that do not suffer from oxidation.

Most of the time giving the controls a good stir before flight and checking for signs of trouble with the Hardware Monitor will prevent trouble. If this doesn’t cure the problem, cleaning with pure alcohol (not diluted like rubbing alcohol which leaves a residue) or a plastic safe contact cleaner should do the trick. Only after a thorough cleaning should the calibration be done if the Hardware Monitor still shows signs of trouble.

The other thing to be aware of is a potentiometer can go bad and can be identified by jerky irregular response after a thorough cleaning. In this case it needs to be replaced. The last thing you want is unpredictable control response.
 
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During calibrations all controls must initiate and end the calibration at the center point. The purpose of the calibration is to establish the effective range of morion from a zero reference point to both the plus and minus side of zero, or center. If you initiate and end in a position other than center, or zero you limit control response as you programmed in a false zero reference position.

Just because someone made a video and stuck it on Youtube in no way implied they knew what they were doing. Contrary to popular belief, being on the internet does not make it true, accurate or factual. The same applies to the news media.
 
I flew yesterday and noticed nothing unusual with the camera tilt. I don't recall doing anything with the Turtle /Rabbit control. I previously did a substantial amount of adjusting the K2 rate curves per this post: New K2 gimbal settings
I saw no indications of the abnormal performance that I experienced last evening.
As I previously noted, prior to re-calibration applying pressure to the slider control when at the top of its range caused the display indication to jump from the center to the top which I find baffling. Both K2 and K3 behaved identically. The amount of pressure I applied to the control should have had no effect. The only guess that I can hazard is that when I first turned the ST16 on last evening I may have been holding it in such a way that I applied pressure to one of the controls and it forced the control out of its normal range which the ST16 saw as a fault and produced these strange results. Seems very unlikely but I have nothing else. I'm not going to attempt to duplicate the problem.
I do appreciate the concern expressed and efforts to help.
 
ok that makes a lot of sense now. before I had an issue (when I had to calibrate my controller the first time) I had some issue with binding. I've only successfully got my Typhoon H to go into binding mode once. so found some solution to copy my current model in model select and recalibrate it. this weekend I had more issues and went back to the default model which they already have. the St16 K2 in calibration test could reach like 3 instead of the 50-300 that brought me to make a post about it. now with the binding issue ive had to change the Typhoon H into team mode and single mode. no matter how many times I tilt the drone to the 45 angle it wont turn orange to bind
 
ok that makes a lot of sense now. before I had an issue (when I had to calibrate my controller the first time) I had some issue with binding. I've only successfully got my Typhoon H to go into binding mode once. so found some solution to copy my current model in model select and recalibrate it. this weekend I had more issues and went back to the default model which they already have. the St16 K2 in calibration test could reach like 3 instead of the 50-300 that brought me to make a post about it. now with the binding issue ive had to change the Typhoon H into team mode and single mode. no matter how many times I tilt the drone to the 45 angle it wont turn orange to bind
A couple of weeks ago I had a problem with the H not being bound to the ST16. The previous day I was checking things out and had bound the H to the wizard and pretty much forgot about it. After a long walk from a parking area to a beach I discovered the problem. After returning to the parking area I had no documentation but fixed the problem very quickly. With the H and ST16 on and in the model select screen I hit either Refresh or Reset (not sure which) and then clicked on the Model and went through the binding procedure. If the H doesn't go into the binding mode after 2 tilts forward try the other selection. Sorry I can't be more specific but I know I had things properly bound in less than a minute.
 
Lots easier to simply put the ST-16 into Team mode. Team mode forces the system into bind mode. I stopped using the tilt method a couple years ago as Team mode works the first time, every time.
 
.....Team mode works the first time, every time.......

They’ve done studies.....60% of the time, it works every time.
 
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here but I did notice that as I picked up my ST16 from a low table behind me to put on the workbench in front of me my forefinger was applying considerable upward pressure to the tilt slider. My idea that holding the ST16 like this while turning it on might not be as far-fetched as I imagined.
 

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