Drone crash

[VETTE198620002000]

Just had my H drop out of the sky, I didn't know what happened at first, When i lost camera feed, But then I looked at the radio screen and I knew want happen, I didn't see any volts or altitude or range. And i knew the battery came disconnected in the H. I didn't put the battery in correctly (going to get a velcro strap before next flight). The camera and gimbal is a total loss it plowed in the soft muddy ground.(landing gear was up) lost lower landing gear and 2 props and 4 arm clips (good idea to have few spare clips just in case only 2.99 each) I think those are designed to break on impact so the arm it self doesn't take the force of the impact . Everything else looks in perfect shape not a scratch. So i got on my lap top , won a brand new cgo3+ camera on ebay for 180.00, and another 50.00 of parts for the landing gear servo, lower and upper landing gear and arm clips. At least it wasn't polite flite error or issue with the bird it self.granted I am not happy having to spend over 200.00 ., But i think I got off cheap i was impressed that the bird frame was completely intact , no scratches , scuffs or cracks. (DID I SAW NOT A SCRATCH ? WOW !!!! LOL...) And yes the bird started right up, linked right to the radio ,got range, altitude reading and motors ran perfect, cooling fans working fine, no odd sounds , mums quiet.i all i was funny !! i don't mind if you "lol" at me in the responses I do think it was funny I still really love this bird...so what else should i do before my next flight besides calibrate the compass?

Merry Christmas

THANKS IN ADVANCE

RAY

 

[AH-1G]

Happy to hear you were able to repair your bird.
Any time any mishap, run up motors on the ground for several minutes as you mentioned, check each engines heat source if you can.
Check any unusual vibrations, there will be a tad. Make sure props don't have hair line cracks.
Once you are comfortable, hover 10 to 15 feet for the entire duration of the battery, landing gear ok? check heat source of engines again and blades.
Yaw left right, move forward backwards, left, and right.
Check any screw you had to take off if they came loose during flight. This I would check for several flights.
While hovering bring it down above your head (be careful) feel the landing gear for excessive vibration if any.
Think off it as a 100 hour maintenance check but on a smaller scale.

 

[Steve Carr]

I didn't put the battery in correctly (going to get a velcro strap before next flight).

Once the battery is latched there should be no way for it to come loose. And nobody is laughing I can assure you. I did the same thing last July shooting fireworks. I was set up in a pitch black area and with the sound from the fireworks I couldn't hear the second click when the battery locks in. As soon as the screen froze, I knew immediately what had happened. I wasn't so lucky with the damage as you. Keep us posted on the repair.

 

[CraigCam]

One more thing to consider post crash is motor damage that’s not immediately apparent. I’ve been banging brushless motors into things for years now and anytime a motor stops suddenly while under power it can damage the magnets and one may “burn” out. Because the hexacopter design distributes power better, it’s not as noticeable as a compromised motor on a quad copter is. A proper motor when not powered will click through each magnet point and there will be no position that feels stickier then the previous point. If you put props on and hand spin, the motor should whine with no clicks or clack sounds. A damaged motor will often stop rotating more quickly then the others as well. The H motors are quite affordable and relatively easy to change and the ESC dictates A or B status so all motors work unlike the 500 and it’s dedicated clockwise and counter clockwise motors. A motor working less efficiently due to crashing will cause the flight system to over work and reduce flight time.

 

[wings]

Happy to hear you were able to repair your bird.
Any time any mishap, run up motors on the ground for several minutes as you mentioned, check each engines heat source if you can.
Check any unusual vibrations, there will be a tad. Make sure props don't have hair line cracks.
Once you are comfortable, hover 10 to 15 feet for the entire duration of the battery, landing gear ok? check heat source of engines again and blades.
Yaw left right, move forward backwards, left, and right.
Check any screw you had to take off if they came loose during flight. This I would check for several flights.
While hovering bring it down above your head (be careful) feel the landing gear for excessive vibration if any.
Think off it as a 100 hour maintenance check but on a smaller scale.

What do you mean by "heat source" exactly? thanks

 

[CraigCam]

You can get an infrared temperature (at least that’s what I think it’s doing) from Harbor Freight that you point at the source to measure. It’s pretty amazing what temperatures show up on battery, mother board, and motors post full flights. Here in Tucson in the summer I have to check because I could easily overheat if I fly repeat missions without breaks between batteries.

 

[wings]

Craig: What number would you consider overheating on an H motor?

 

[VETTE198620002000]

well i'm for the new parts to arrive on 12/30 ill keep you all updated. glad i got the cgo3+ camera for 180.00. besides the aem clips breaking and lower landing gear, the bird connected with the ground station as normal gps, altitude, range and volt all seemed fine, hit the start button got the motor turning good, no strange sounds or hum coming from the bird at all. just need to know if there is anything i should check on the ground station besides the compass.

 

[Steve Carr]

well i'm for the new parts to arrive on 12/30 ill keep you all updated. glad i got the cgo3+ camera for 180.00. besides the aem clips breaking and lower landing gear, the bird connected with the ground station as normal gps, altitude, range and volt all seemed fine, hit the start button got the motor turning good, no strange sounds or hum coming from the bird at all. just need to know if there is anything i should check on the ground station besides the compass.

After a "hard landing" (crash) it's always a good practice to cal the compass and accelerometer as well as checking the GUI for any errors.

 

[VETTE198620002000]

Ok new update, got the new cgo3+ and camera wont power up.so i bought on (offer up .com) a regular typhoon h without real sense and and it came with a cgo3+ camera for 350.00 wow what a deal. i might return the other camera i bought for 180.00. Still waiting in the other parts to repair my H pro... Anyway i tested the new camera on the new "H" i got and it works great. so my first question is.. is there a seperate camera board on the typhoon H pro ? or is it all on the main board? second question is can i take the real sense off my H pro and put it on the bird i just bought without real sense; because the rear light on the (H with out real sense) looks different. third question. before i go through all this changing of realsense. is there a difference in flight distance between the typhoon h and the typhoon h pro ?

thanks in advance

RAY

 

[terrence davidson]

i would keep the other camera as backup. For the camera not working on the crash pro I am suspecting gimbal wire damage or damage on the gimbal circuit on the main board. check the gimbal board on the drone with multimeter for 13 to 14 volts but be care full and not cross the test leads or cross other contacts when doing this. better method is making a gimbal tester that all you have to do is plug in a digital multimeter leads in. would require yuneec camera gimbal parts mostly the lower gimbal frame and the circuit board that meets up with the h gimbal mount and wire it accordingly

 

[VETTE198620002000]

i would keep the other camera as backup. For the camera not working on the crash pro I am suspecting gimbal wire damage or damage on the gimbal circuit on the main board. check the gimbal board on the drone with multimeter for 13 to 14 volts but be care full and not cross the test leads or cross other contacts when doing this. better method is making a gimbal tester that all you have to do is plug in a digital multimeter leads in. would require yuneec camera gimbal parts mostly the lower gimbal frame and the circuit board that meets up with the h gimbal mount and wire it accordingly[/QUOT

The gimbal board has no power . so do i need to replace the main board?

 

[VETTE198620002000]

if its ok the main board thats about 100 to replace
did u see my other questions?

 

[Steve Carr]

s there a seperate camera board on the typhoon H pro ? or is it all on the main board? second question is can i take the real sense off my H pro and put it on the bird i just bought

Every Typhoon H is the same machine. The Pro simply has the RealSense added and a fancy name. Adding RealSense to any H makes it a Pro.

 

[VETTE198620002000]

Every Typhoon H is the same machine. The Pro simply has the RealSense added and a fancy name. Adding RealSense to any H makes it a Pro.

ok so ur saying the real sense will fit in the regular h ?

 

[Steve Carr]

ok so ur saying the real sense will fit in the regular h ?

Sure. All the wiring is there. Should be a Youtube video on doing the install.

 

[CraigCam]

Craig: What number would you consider overheating on an H motor?

Sorry for the delay in responding. I had to find my old log book where I thought I noted my temperature tests. I did not find my numbers so I’ll do it again. The bottom line is the motor should not be to hot to touch post flight. If one motor is noticeably hotter then the others that’s a good sign of damage from prop strikes or dirt.
I’ll get some new numbers today. I’ll use standard props also.

 

[CraigCam]

Ok new update, got the new cgo3+ and camera wont power up.so i bought on (offer up .com) a regular typhoon h without real sense and and it came with a cgo3+ camera for 350.00 wow what a deal. i might return the other camera i bought for 180.00. Still waiting in the other parts to repair my H pro... Anyway i tested the new camera on the new "H" i got and it works great. so my first question is.. is there a seperate camera board on the typhoon H pro ? or is it all on the main board? second question is can i take the real sense off my H pro and put it on the bird i just bought without real sense; because the rear light on the (H with out real sense) looks different. third question. before i go through all this changing of realsense. is there a difference in flight distance between the typhoon h and the typhoon h pro ?

thanks in advance

RAY

The RS in theory is swappable. I watched the tutorial on installing one on a standard H from when they first released it. The plug is there hiding under the main status light cover. You’d need to update the ST bound to the model your adding the RS module. I’m assuming you did not get another ST for that price? The RS version has extended internal antennas that pass through a tube on either side of the gear and the ST has the additional 5GhZ antenna plus the patch antenna if you want for the 2.4 video side. They call it the Pro version. You can upgrade any H for about 150.00 with the extended range kit which is basically two new antenna leads and two straight antenna. It’s pretty easy if your not afraid of opening up an obviously out of warranty H. Takes about two hours to do. Extending the antenna helps regardless of what you do to the ST for better flight range and control.

 

[VETTE198620002000]

OUTSTANDING that the best answer i got so far , what took you so long.... lol. though further investigation i have found out that the "k" fuse is damaged on my H PRO. So im going to order a board for 129.00 rather then convert the regular H. so Ill have a H and a H pro both with cameras. Saw a video on replacing the main board seem pretty easy. having yuneec will cost 250.00 ....

thanks again ill keep the post updated as soon as i get the parts, the arm clips are back ordered for 3 weeks.


Ray

 

[wings]

Sorry for the delay in responding. I had to find my old log book where I thought I noted my temperature tests. I did not find my numbers so I’ll do it again. The bottom line is the motor should not be to hot to touch post flight. If one motor is noticeably hotter then the others that’s a good sign of damage from prop strikes or dirt.
I’ll get some new numbers today. I’ll use standard props also.

Thanks Craig. I got one of those heat sensors.