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E10t no WiFi

" the second picture shows the connector I’m referring to. I’m not certain is the connection on the gimble board also different making a swap not possible."
The ribbon in the second picture seems to have two rows of connectors, 12 connectors on each side. I would at least count the connectors on each gimbal board to see if they match in numbers. Note this connector does NOT go to either the gimbal board or the Wi-Fi board. This is the connector between the two sections of the Main Ribbon. (The front section is often called the "camera ribbon", the "front main ribbon" or the "Spiral ribbon" I'm not sure why you are looking at this one.
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I used a microscope and a multimeter to look for conductor(s) running directly from gimbal board to WiFi Board. It appears there is only one, and that one connects to multiple points on both the gimbal board and the Wi-Fi Board. One would assume it is a ground.
If that assumption is correct, then the Wi-Fi power is back fed from the camera. That would increase the suspicion the issue is a damaged section (or both sections) of the main cable.
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I would definately try the WiFi board.

The part that grabs attention is the additional shielding in the pictures. The C23 and E90 already suffer from heat failures due to the lack of ventilation in the rear arm if the props are not spinning. It sure seems the additional shielding would compound that issue and lead to failures of both Gimbal board and Wi-Fi boards fairly quickly when doing bench testing.
Do you keep a fan on the rear arm when the camera is under power on the work bench?
I did not see this comment until now even though i replied to it. I never even considered ventilation. Are you referring to the copper tape on this camera, i noticed that also that it’s not on the e90 or c23
 
None of these ribbons seem compatible with the C23/E90 counterparts. The Encoder ribbons have the same connectors, but different part numbers, suggesting a difference in length or bend placement
The front and rear sections of the main ribbon differ in the number of pins at the hub connector. The front section (Hub to camera) is shaped to enter the hub from the front instead of the side.
It is odd the hub connections have more pins, since both Wi-Fi and Gimbal Board end are the same as the C23/E90. It suggests the E10t has more conductors, and the C23/e90 just does not use the corresponding pins.
 
I did not see this comment until now even though i replied to it. I never even considered ventilation. Are you referring to the copper tape on this camera, i noticed that also that it’s not on the e90 or c23
Yes. The copper wrap looks like it would make the overheating worse. It would be risky to swap gimbal boards but you could clean both connectors on the faint chance the ground to the Wi-Fi board has corrosion.
 
It is also interesting that both the Wi-Fi board and the gimbal board seem to be the same physical parts as used on the C23/E90. (Right down to the Pitch and Roll encoder labels are switched.)
That gives some hope you could swap out the gimbal board if needed and possibly use the calibration system created by @h-elsner to mate it to the E10t. I have no idea if the gimbal firmware is functionally different.
 
Yes. The copper wrap looks like it would make the overheating worse. It would be risky to swap gimbal boards but you could clean both connectors on the faint chance the ground to the Wi-Fi board has corrosion.
I was thinking this was to reduce interference from other WiFi signals near by . It definitely would not help with heat depending on how hot these get. That will be the next step to clean the connectors and try again. Very unlikely but at this stage what is there to lose
 
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It is also interesting that both the Wi-Fi board and the gimbal board seem to be the same physical parts as used on the C23/E90. (Right down to the Pitch and Roll encoder labels are switched.)
That gives some hope you could swap out the gimbal board if needed and possibly use the calibration system created by @h-elsner to mate it to the E10t. I have no idea if the gimbal firmware is functionally different.
I was wondering this myself with the gimble board, if it were switched like a c23 to e90 is this what would cause the gimble to go crazy? Boards might be identical but flashed with firmware we can’t install much like the imu
 
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"is this what would cause the gimble to go crazy? Boards might be identical but flashed with firmware we can’t install much like the imu.
Yes, the gimbal will go crazy. You can avoid the Crazy Dance by not connecting the three motor/encoder connectors and ignoring all the beeps long enough to see if Wi-Fi comes back.

If Wi-Fi comes back, you can probably reconnect the motor/encoder connectors and calibrate the board to the E10T using @h-elsner's calibration GUI.

If the calibration works, you could try using an SD card to change the firmware.
C23/E90 firmware swaps do not work via SD card. However, each firmware works fine on the other camera. C23 or E90 firmware might also work on E10t. You just can't do any updates.
 
Yes, the gimbal will go crazy. You can avoid the Crazy Dance by not connecting the three motor/encoder connectors and ignoring all the beeps long enough to see if Wi-Fi comes back.

If Wi-Fi comes back, you can probably reconnect the motor/encoder connectors and calibrate the board to the E10T using @h-elsner's calibration GUI.

If the calibration works, you could try using an SD card to change the firmware.
C23/E90 firmware swaps do not work via SD card. However, each firmware works fine on the other camera. C23 or E90 firmware might also work on E10t. You just can't do any updates.
All very good information. It’s a shame now the e90/c23 ribbon will not work. The search now is on for the ribbon . It will however in the meantime be worth a gimble board swap if that is compatible. It powers the camera at least partially as the led lights up.
 
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