Looking good, but put the internal threading visible in the tall one into the shorter one?
Ralphy, the M2 would be best, but looking at your pic and reviewing your diagram, either M2 or M3 would provide strength if the screw reached into the thicker base section. That would provide the anchoring strength for the top screw. As far as hieght; if Kris is mic’ing 7.4, to provide holding tension on screw I’d suggest 7mm.Wow talk about a coincidence....the current ones actually are tight enough to run a 3mm rod in there. It actually screwed in. With a little tweaking it will be a little thicker wall with m3 thread. Hopefully the 3d printer can print that resolution but if not a m3 tap will clean things up. How much height do you guys want on the threaded part?View attachment 8158
Ordered.Thats the final design with 1mm shorter stub and the m3 interior
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View attachment 8161
**** autocorrect. ... offset is NOT an "every other"... and it varies a LOT.Ordered.
Doug, I'm not overly worried abt a millimeter or two; that's what washers are for. Also, offset is on an "every other", but only needed on two. And the need for offset varies, a LIT. Best to duck that issue by trimming the blades back a couple millimeters rather than toy with offsets.
Also, Doug.. I didn't want to shorten it more, so they can still be used with other props, like the Autels (just use a star lockwasher to help keep them on).Ralphy, the M2 would be best, but looking at your pic and reviewing your diagram, either M2 or M3 would provide strength if the screw reached into the thicker base section. That would provide the anchoring strength for the top screw. As far as hieght; if Kris is mic’ing 7.4, to provide holding tension on screw I’d suggest 7mm.
Reguarding the base off-set... you previously experimented with 4mm? Did that suffice, or did I see a comment indicating blade impact with offset?
Since all the top screws will rotate CW, I’d like the Off-set group to be CCW adapters to provide additional thread to help counter the torque to loosen top screw.
Ralphy, the M2 would be best, but looking at your pic and reviewing your diagram, either M2 or M3 would provide strength if the screw reached into the thicker base section. That would provide the anchoring strength for the top screw. As far as hieght; if Kris is mic’ing 7.4, to provide holding tension on screw I’d suggest 7mm.
Reguarding the base off-set... you previously experimented with 4mm? Did that suffice, or did I see a comment indicating blade impact with offset?
Since all the top screws will rotate CW, I’d like the Off-set group to be CCW adapters to provide additional thread to help counter the torque to loosen top screw.
Ordered.
Doug, I'm not overly worried abt a millimeter or two; that's what washers are for. Also, offset is on an "every other", but only needed on two. And the need for offset varies, a LIT. Best to duck that issue by trimming the blades back a couple millimeters rather than toy with offsets.
I don't recall exact trim amount. I figured it by putting everything together on the H and seeing what max I needed to trim to avoid touch, added .5mm and made a jig with a Dremel cutter.Kris, I do plan on getting a 2 blade folding set, 3 blade folding set, and play with the OEM options too. Curious to experiment. You collected good data, enough to warrant purchasing & experiment.
What amount of tip are you trimming? I’m bouncing on off-set or no off-set.
On the center shaft, I’d prefer triming shaft if needed and reduce the components getting the tension through screw gap. Although that may not work, I don’t know the diameter of a button flange head on M3 screw.
Reading your new posts as I respond...
I agree, I’d rather have the post .5-2mm higher to allow fitting to any prop Hub. I assumed the tri-Hubs were thicker than most.. maybe bad assumption being aluminum.
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