You are posting faster than I can respond. When the reciever ID was "found again", did you tap the ID and wait for the drone to bind?
What color are the rear motor LEDs now?
My C23 Camera does not move
- Thread starter charlesluo
- Start date
What color are the rear motor LEDs now?
Ok. I just tried my camera, it is moving (gamble and turn) . You Saved my day. I though my camera is not working. I have never used this drone, just got my Setion 107 certificate, ready to fly it. I don't want to make any mistake before my first flight. Thank you thank you and Thank you
I have one more question, I understand I can set RTH with heights, etc. Can I set it to auto RTH when the battery is low (say below 20%)? Also, when I set RTH, will it auto extend the landing gear, or I would need to remember switch the landing gear down if it is retracted? Thank you
It will already RTH when the battery gets low. I don't recall the RTH battery value, but it is not adjustable.
The landing gear should automatically come down when you get below about 20 feet, but why risk it? Just put the gear down manually to be sure you don't get a pancaked camera.
Download the attached User Enhanced Manual for the H+. Keep a copy of the pdf on your smart phone so it available in the field.
Thank you for the information. with good tips. You can tell I am nervous. I am trying to get as ready as possible before first flight, in a safe area for landing, perhaps not fying above 50 feet or away 50 feet. I believe all I need now is to calibrate the drone (in the field) before flying, watched some videos as how to do it. How many satellites do you recommend to acquire b4 flying? and do you recommend GPS on or off for the first flight? Anything else I need to know or should do? (other than weather, airspace, and surrounding related). Thank you
Is this the first drone you have flown?
Definitely fly with GPS enabled and in the Angle Mode of flight.
I don’t think the motors will arm with less than 10 satellites.
Do takeoffs and landings with the Rate Slider (on upper right side of ST16S) in the full forward (Rabbit) position.
The Enhanced Manual has a lot of good information in it.
Definitely fly with GPS enabled and in the Angle Mode of flight.
I don’t think the motors will arm with less than 10 satellites.
Do takeoffs and landings with the Rate Slider (on upper right side of ST16S) in the full forward (Rabbit) position.
The Enhanced Manual has a lot of good information in it.
If there is any possible way, you should have an experienced pilot with you. A typhoon H Plus with a C23 camera is most definitely NOT the first aircraft you want to take into the air.
But to address a couple of your points:
The camera is EASILY damaged if you do calibrations with the camera mounted and not secured. Some folks leave camera mounted but keep the gimbal lock in place while doing the calibrations. Other folks initiate the calibration, then dismount the camera before starting the actual movements of the drone.
The motors will not start until you have at least the minimum satellite acquisition. It is a good idea to allow about 5 extra minutes to acquire more satellites and to get a better fix.
REMOVE THE CAMERA for the first several flights. Those cameras are very difficult to repair, and there are very few spare parts available anyway.
I have flown AUtel drones during hands-on training a few times passed the training with launching , yawing, banking, and combination of both, and of course landing, but it was a much smaller drone with landing feet down all the time. I am glad you gave me so many suggestions, including not flying with the Camera at the beginning. To calibrate, is it necessary to do it with the camera on or not? I understand it is better to have the lock on when with the camera. Do you have the link to the enhanced manual (I have one not sure if it is enhanced). Thank you
The signal to start the calibration comes through the camera, but that is pretty much all the camera does. Once you tap the button to start the calibration, you can remove the camera and the calibration will run normally. You won't get the progression indicated on the controller or the notification on the controller when the calibration is complete, but that doesn't matter. Here's an important consideration: If you can't run the calibration without adequately protecting the camera, do not run the calibration until you can protect the camera. The consequences of camera damage are just too high.
The Enhanced Manual is attached in post #25.
Moderator Note: Edited to remove outdated manual and replace it with a link to the current enhanced manual posted earlier in the thread.
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Thank you and will follow all you sound advice. Thank you also for the Manual. Till next time
Thank you. By the way what is latest version firmware for Typhoon H Plus, mine is 2018, are their newer versions, and where to get them? thank you.
Please understand Yuneec updates are not the same routine success story you have experienced in pretty much everything else you deal with. This Forum is littered with tales of woe and lost equipment from failed updates. And most were performed only because the member wanted to have the latest. If your equipment is operating normally and does everything you want it to do, update is not recommended.
With that said, there have been instances of controller and drone revisions that actually conflict. You may want to upload a screenshot of your update versions page for review as a precaution.
These are the current Typhoon H plus updates:
Thank you. my updates as follows
Auto Pilot: V1.20
Camera: C23_E1.1.02_20181122
RealSense 102
Remote Controller
SYstem: Controller 1.1.02_20181122
App: 1.1.02_20181122
Looks like they are compatible with each other, Maybe I should not even try to update to 2019 version
Caution. They are not compatible.
Autopilot V1.20 is the original drone autopilot from Build 652. The camera and controller are on Build 784.
Build 784 has redundant flight control, which periodically swaps control between the normal 2.4 GHz and the redundant 5.8 GHz. Build 652 does not have it.
The result is that you may periodically have temporary loss of control (in flight) when the controller tries to swap but the drone does not. Most times, the drone will just stop in place for a few seconds, then swap back. It is possible it may attempt an auto RTH. I have not heard of any fly-away events related to the mismatch, but it does not sound impossible.
Now, the glitch. - One way a system can get in this condition was a previous failed update that was not detected. The failure occurs because some C23 series cameras have defective communication ribbons. The controller and the camera itself will update, but the drone flight controller will not. Leaving you with this type mismatch. If you try an update and your update attempt does not result in an update of the Autopilot firmware, you should consider downgrading the controller and camera to match the autopilot. Or at least come back to the Forum for more discussion. There are reasons you do not want to update the drone by other means if the camera to drone communication is not working.
Bottom line:
You need an update to either get the drone up or move the controller/camera down.
Thank you I am glad you pointed out this mismatch before I fly. Can you please advise how I update my Autopilot at least first to see if it can be done successfully. Thank you.
Attachments
Also when I checked for software update, it showed the following stating no update required? So how do I upgrade or downgrade as you suggested/. Thank you
Attachments
This document should provide both the guidance and the links to the needed firmware:
H Plus SD Card Firmware Upgrade/Downgrade
It shows that message when the latest raw update files are already stored on the controller. (Not necessarily installed.)
I do not recommend using the OEM update method. The SD card method described above has proven far more reliable for me.
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