Ain't that the truth.Too funny. I buy from them as well. Hobby shops buy it bulk, cut it into shorter pieces and quadruple the price
Thanks Pat
Of Batteries and the Typhoon H
- Thread starter PatR
- Start date
If you take pics on a proper camera (as opposed to a phone for example) you will usually get pics (even jpegs) at 300 or even 600 /1200+ DPI so that they are suitable for printing. But this file size is way too large for screen display, which is still fine at 72 DPI even in 2019 where a lot of screens can do more than that.
If you pop into an image editor, do any cropping required, and then edit image size, you can reduce DPI to 72, then alter dimensions to what you consider ideal for screen viewing (typically in the range of 1000 to 4000 pixels along the longest edge). By then saving as an optimized jpeg with some compression you should be able to get very reasonable file sizes AND large clear images. And now I'll shush about that because I don't want to derail this excellent thread
His work is just perfectly executed. His work in my opinion goes way beyond what yuneec designed originally.
Going back to the connector soldering jig for a moment. For those that have never soldered an XT type connector, or for those that have had problems soldering them in the past, there are a few things that could help you get it done the first time around. The first is to avoid whenever possible soldering wire in just a single connector half. The cups become very hot very quickly and that heat gets transferred to the plastic housing. When soldering wire into the cups in a single connector half the heat transfer from the cup to the housing can occur so quickly that by the time the cup is heated enough to join cup and wire the cupped pin will have melted the housing and allow the cup/pin to push through the connector housing. You can tin them 1/2 at a time but joining the wire can be done more effectively if you join the male and female housings together before attaching the wire. The second housing half then acts as a heat sink, dissapating a lot of the heat that would have been retained in a single housing operation.
Second, don't fill the solder cup. Doing that will cause a lot of solder overflow when the wire is fitted. Never fill the cup more than half full. In fact, just tinning the inside of the cup is plenty adequate if you tinned the wire correctly. Avoid sticking blobs of solder to the outside of the cub as that makes for an unsightly connection and heat shrink will not fit as well. The solder in the wire and the tinned cup will flow together and just a touch of solder will complete the fill and make a very nice connection.
I've never done an XT connector where the wire didn't get hot enough to move heat quite a distance up the wire. This can be a PITA for that heat shrink you slid up the wire for post solder insulation. Slide that heat shrink as far from the soldering end as possible and use some form of heat sink on the wires to limit heat transmission up the wire. Binder clips actually work pretty well for this.
Third, pay close attention to the battery housing and wire polarity. ST connectors have + and _ markings on the edges to help to nail polarity but where you might get into trouble is in selecting the wrong half for the adapter. Know you are fitting the right kind of housing before touching the soldering iron.
You can use a "helping hand" or other fixture to hold the housings but the jig depicted here and earlier works out pretty well. For those that have never done it before and intend to give it a go I'll suggest visiting Amazon to obtain a small quantity of XT-60 connectors, not just one set. They are not very expensive. Of course you have the option of using other connector types but once you start down the "standard battery" road it helps to keep things consistent. If you start out with a battery using EC, XT, or other connectors just always try to obtain future batteries with the same connectors, or no connectors at all.
Second, don't fill the solder cup. Doing that will cause a lot of solder overflow when the wire is fitted. Never fill the cup more than half full. In fact, just tinning the inside of the cup is plenty adequate if you tinned the wire correctly. Avoid sticking blobs of solder to the outside of the cub as that makes for an unsightly connection and heat shrink will not fit as well. The solder in the wire and the tinned cup will flow together and just a touch of solder will complete the fill and make a very nice connection.
I've never done an XT connector where the wire didn't get hot enough to move heat quite a distance up the wire. This can be a PITA for that heat shrink you slid up the wire for post solder insulation. Slide that heat shrink as far from the soldering end as possible and use some form of heat sink on the wires to limit heat transmission up the wire. Binder clips actually work pretty well for this.
Third, pay close attention to the battery housing and wire polarity. ST connectors have + and _ markings on the edges to help to nail polarity but where you might get into trouble is in selecting the wrong half for the adapter. Know you are fitting the right kind of housing before touching the soldering iron.
You can use a "helping hand" or other fixture to hold the housings but the jig depicted here and earlier works out pretty well. For those that have never done it before and intend to give it a go I'll suggest visiting Amazon to obtain a small quantity of XT-60 connectors, not just one set. They are not very expensive. Of course you have the option of using other connector types but once you start down the "standard battery" road it helps to keep things consistent. If you start out with a battery using EC, XT, or other connectors just always try to obtain future batteries with the same connectors, or no connectors at all.
Hi All,
Lets put things in perspective here, we have a Person here posting in the name Shockazulu that has also identified himself as Rick Smith the Maker of the Battery adapter and the GPS Pancake Hut. Now, this was also touted on this Forum by Drone Addict in some of my threads. Now Rick by chance would you also be DroneAddict as well as some of your other allis's.
It is strange to me that Drone Addict hit the forum the same time as your eBay and Youtube videos, you joined the forum on Nov 17 Th 2018 just before RpR hit the forum with his thread of Foiltastic and the GPS Pancake on the 26 Th Nov 2018.
Now is your chance to come clean, just like you did earlier on in this thread and make posts in your own name. This leaves a VERY BAD TASTE IN MY MOUTH with all of the different names ETC.
Drone Addict has not been heard of since his joining on the 5Th of March and posting on the 13Th of March, play it straight and we can get somewhere. I know why your battery adapter didn't work at first until you moved the GPS and you did the PANCAKE because you could not make an adapter wire to shift it further away. I have done more testing on my TOWER and Fan System and some extra mods which have also given the H more stability in the HORIZONTAL plane now also. All this is to improve the reliability and safety of the H and now like I said to PatR earlier I am looking at Li-Ion and Solid State batteries to improve performance and also the most IMPORTANT is the SAFE HANDLING and no storage mode etc against LiPo that we have now. It would be good if you used RICKY Smith so that we know to whom we are speaking.
I will post some photos of my battery MOD also very soon. Johnno Hennessy
Lets put things in perspective here, we have a Person here posting in the name Shockazulu that has also identified himself as Rick Smith the Maker of the Battery adapter and the GPS Pancake Hut. Now, this was also touted on this Forum by Drone Addict in some of my threads. Now Rick by chance would you also be DroneAddict as well as some of your other allis's.
It is strange to me that Drone Addict hit the forum the same time as your eBay and Youtube videos, you joined the forum on Nov 17 Th 2018 just before RpR hit the forum with his thread of Foiltastic and the GPS Pancake on the 26 Th Nov 2018.
Now is your chance to come clean, just like you did earlier on in this thread and make posts in your own name. This leaves a VERY BAD TASTE IN MY MOUTH with all of the different names ETC.
Drone Addict has not been heard of since his joining on the 5Th of March and posting on the 13Th of March, play it straight and we can get somewhere. I know why your battery adapter didn't work at first until you moved the GPS and you did the PANCAKE because you could not make an adapter wire to shift it further away. I have done more testing on my TOWER and Fan System and some extra mods which have also given the H more stability in the HORIZONTAL plane now also. All this is to improve the reliability and safety of the H and now like I said to PatR earlier I am looking at Li-Ion and Solid State batteries to improve performance and also the most IMPORTANT is the SAFE HANDLING and no storage mode etc against LiPo that we have now. It would be good if you used RICKY Smith so that we know to whom we are speaking.
I will post some photos of my battery MOD also very soon. Johnno Hennessy
I am happy to help anyone who wants to experiment. Especially i would like to help save someone from doing a test if it could damage their drone at least have them be prepared for what to expect. Looking at the way you are talking to me and the way it appears you have done to others in the past. It looks like you are scaring away anyone who wants to be involved in a conversation.
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Not to get off the subject here, I have to say all I have read about what Mr. Hennessy did was a lot of honest words and hard work that in the end proved to be very successful by reading others comments and seeing his work.
Back too subject, if any of us do solder a XT60 or XT90 or whatever. And you are doing it on the end of a live battery. Take every precaution to not make the one worst mistake you could make.
Should you even for a brief moment touch positive to negative there is no fuse for protecting. The wires will instantly weld together and you will not be able to get them apart. The battery will burst into flames and eject poisonous gases. Blah blah blah. Seriously it will be bad. If you still chose to do this job of changing the connector. Cut and strip only one wire at a time. For example cut positive wire strip and solder to new connector but dont even think of cutting both wires. Completely finish the first connecting before cutting into the negative wire. Take the extra step of not doing this inside for the slightest chance something could go wrong. because the type of smoke that would come out you defiantly wouldn't want released inside of your house. Safest thing to do is never change the connector end of a lipo battery. Use an adapter connector or don't use the battery at all.
Should you even for a brief moment touch positive to negative there is no fuse for protecting. The wires will instantly weld together and you will not be able to get them apart. The battery will burst into flames and eject poisonous gases. Blah blah blah. Seriously it will be bad. If you still chose to do this job of changing the connector. Cut and strip only one wire at a time. For example cut positive wire strip and solder to new connector but dont even think of cutting both wires. Completely finish the first connecting before cutting into the negative wire. Take the extra step of not doing this inside for the slightest chance something could go wrong. because the type of smoke that would come out you defiantly wouldn't want released inside of your house. Safest thing to do is never change the connector end of a lipo battery. Use an adapter connector or don't use the battery at all.
Totally agree with that and it’s something described in detail in my alternative battery posts for the 920. Bear in mind that avoiding changes in battery connectors would have made the use of alternative batteries impossible for the 920. Avoidance due to fear can be mitigated through knowledge and caution. With knowledge and practice while exercising caution people expand their capabilities to become more than they were.
Safety comes with knowledge and understanding. As there have been many years, generations worth really, of developing methods of working with live power systems, which is what a battery is, there’s no reason for people lacking experience and understanding to jump into an endeavor unprepared.
Adding or changing battery connectors is a common practice, but the activity does require a few precautions and some soldering skills. That is precisely why the actual thread for making an adapter, which will see the first post happen sometime today, has a warning included advising people without soldering and mechanical skills to defer from the endeavor and have someone with skills and ability do it for them.
We should not let fear control destiny. We can manage fears to allow progress with knowledge and experience. Working with a live power delivery device is an activity that sits at the top of the practical experience ladder, not at the bottom. Those lacking electrical, soldering, and wiring experience or knowledge should not begin their education by soldering connectors on a battery.
Safety comes with knowledge and understanding. As there have been many years, generations worth really, of developing methods of working with live power systems, which is what a battery is, there’s no reason for people lacking experience and understanding to jump into an endeavor unprepared.
Adding or changing battery connectors is a common practice, but the activity does require a few precautions and some soldering skills. That is precisely why the actual thread for making an adapter, which will see the first post happen sometime today, has a warning included advising people without soldering and mechanical skills to defer from the endeavor and have someone with skills and ability do it for them.
We should not let fear control destiny. We can manage fears to allow progress with knowledge and experience. Working with a live power delivery device is an activity that sits at the top of the practical experience ladder, not at the bottom. Those lacking electrical, soldering, and wiring experience or knowledge should not begin their education by soldering connectors on a battery.
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I know this technology hadn't been developed yet. I was thinking the best type of battery could be one that could convert fuel into electricity. If there was a way to make such a battery you would fill up the fuel tank and as it flew it would actually get lighter as the fuel tank gets lower. Unlike the batteries are just as heavy as when we first launch. There are thermal generators to convert heat into electricity. Probably just a dream. If i googled how much energy gasoline contains 100 times that of a battery but is 15% efficient. But i can't find recurrence for percent of effecency of thermal engines or thermal generators.
The perpetual motion concept has been around a long time but nobody has been able to make it happen. Unfortunately every energy source has its trade offs, with some of them pretty hard to deal with. We can look at hybrid electric cars as an example of a trade off. High efficiency using electricity but limited range, payload, and long refueling times while less efficient and range limited due to reduced fuel capacity using combustion. Not to mention cost of production, both financially and ecologically.
The last UAV company I worked for was developing one of those as the military really likes the idea. All of us that worked around or with it had to go through a hydrogen gas safety and certification process. I've seen a few others as well. Using them will completely change the way people handle their fuel/power systems from what they are now, and incurs a whole lot of expense in equipment differences. Lipo's and gasoline are dangerous but at least you can see the flames when they burn. I put the dangers of hydrogen well above gas and battery. If multirotors weren't so darn weight sensitive I would prefer a heavy fuel combustion engine.
I did see a YT video with a small gas powered generator to supply power on a UAS but, it has to be a heavy lifter to tote the thing around. Kind of a catch 22.
I like the gasoline powered concept. Cause I don't know where to go to fuel up on hydrogen.
Of course what I was thinking was the battery would have a flame that would need to be lit. It would now have hot exhaust shooting out the back which would get blown down. If it crashed it could start a fire. But if it was super efficient the exhausts shouldn't be very hot. The hydrogen is looking better now.
There is a batter company called "battery tender" they have a lithium battery that I use in my motorcycle and jetski. It goes I like a regular battery charges with the vehicles regular electrical system. I went to start my jetski and my motorcycle and found I left key on and batterys were dead. If that were a lipo the battery would be dead forever. But I charged it up and it works good as new.
Self Protection From:
Over-Charging
Over-Discharging
Over-Drain
Anyway these batteries are unbelievably light. Like they are filled with air. But the jetski takes a massive amount of power to start it.
I Have a q500 already wired for alternative batteries.
I should try it?
If you are comfortable with the modification and installation, can effectively secure the battery in the airframe, keep the weight within a relatively tight set of parameters, why not?
We are dealing with only a few critical factors when we modify the power supply. Our competency as a technician, remaining within the flight controller’s capabilities, correct voltage, and aircraft weight and balance limitations. The aircraft’s motors, ESC’s and circuitry are limited and adding too much weight can induce over current damages, which will always crash the aircraft. The system doesn’t care what or where the power comes from, it only needs to be the right voltage with adequate current.
This whole thing is about having choices, which are currently extremely limited by manufacturer design.
Just do your test flights in a wide open area and limit distances to those that will remain inside the test area until you are satisfied with all aspects of aircraft and system performance. Accept in advance there is a risk of failure but know there are rewards in success.
We are dealing with only a few critical factors when we modify the power supply. Our competency as a technician, remaining within the flight controller’s capabilities, correct voltage, and aircraft weight and balance limitations. The aircraft’s motors, ESC’s and circuitry are limited and adding too much weight can induce over current damages, which will always crash the aircraft. The system doesn’t care what or where the power comes from, it only needs to be the right voltage with adequate current.
This whole thing is about having choices, which are currently extremely limited by manufacturer design.
Just do your test flights in a wide open area and limit distances to those that will remain inside the test area until you are satisfied with all aspects of aircraft and system performance. Accept in advance there is a risk of failure but know there are rewards in success.
That's sort of the easy part, visit a compressed gas supplier and rent a bulk tank of hydrogen. Alternatively you could design and build a water separator, but cheap and easy that would not be. The safety aspects of that shoot through the roof.
For Steve Carr and you radio technicians out there;
Might ya'll provide your thoughts about RFI/EMI generation in the environment shown in the attached picture? I'm a bit troubled by what I see but don't have the savvy to make determinations.
Might ya'll provide your thoughts about RFI/EMI generation in the environment shown in the attached picture? I'm a bit troubled by what I see but don't have the savvy to make determinations.
I noticed that on one of my H's that the receiver had a shield on it and the other one didn't. The one without the shield gives a orange flash when retracting and extending the landing gear, the shielded one does not. And once again, if you want cool, then remove the shell. It won.t look as pretty but, at 200 ft, who's going to notice.
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ATTENTION TO ALL POSTERS!!!
There is a lot of good information and discussion pro and con for different approaches to modifying the H series of aircraft for using stock batteries and mention of GPS mods and cooling.
Please keep it respectful of each other and leave the personal attacks out of the discussion.
Any further posts that are deemed as personal attacks will be deleted entirely and any useful information contained within will be lost along with it.
Thanks for everyone’s cooperation as we move ahead, and let’s keep this to useful and educational dissemination of information.
There is a lot of good information and discussion pro and con for different approaches to modifying the H series of aircraft for using stock batteries and mention of GPS mods and cooling.
Please keep it respectful of each other and leave the personal attacks out of the discussion.
Any further posts that are deemed as personal attacks will be deleted entirely and any useful information contained within will be lost along with it.
Thanks for everyone’s cooperation as we move ahead, and let’s keep this to useful and educational dissemination of information.
