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Peau Productions Typhoon H 8.25mm Zoom Lens [Example Media, Official Thread]

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Peau Productions has launched the new 8.25mm (47mm) zoom lens (over 2x the stock lens FOV) which will be available in many different forms, including the "normal", "extended" and "Hero5" versions. Since this thread is located on Yuneec Pilots we will mainly discuss the use of the "normal" version and its use in the Yuneec Typhoon cameras, namely the CGO3+ in the H drone, though it can also be used in the CGO3 camera. Any questions please let us know and we will do our best to answer them for you.


8.25mm Lens Information:

The 8.25mm is our newest 4K lens for compact m12 mount cameras such as the GoPro Hero and Yuneec Typhoon. With its 41 degree HFOV 16MP sharp 7 glass non-fisheye optics this lens captures the entire image sensor in perfect edge-to-edge sharpness (see example media below).

No fisheye/barrel distortion means objects are naturally straight and just as your eyes see the world. While auto camera mode performs very well on the Typhoon H even with the 44 degree narrower FOV (2x zoom!), we recommend keeping shutter speeds at 1/500s or slower to reduce jello from the rolling shutter during full sun shooting. If the slower shutter speeds are too bright you can add our ND filters (HERE) to stop down the light.

When installing into the Yuneec Typhoon CGO3/CGO3+ cameras you will need to also purchase a new lens mount (HERE) as the stock mount does not have the proper threads to hold it. Installing the new lens mount is quite difficult as the glue holding the original mount to the sensor board is tough to separate. Once you do though it's simple to swap to the new mount and thread in the 8.25mm lens. We also sell modified CGO3+ cameras (HERE) with the 8.25mm professionally installed and focused if performing the install seems too daunting of a task (especially considering the requirement for removing the original lens mount).

The 2x zoom has a few great benefits when used on an aerial platform:

-Able to capture the same scene but be 2x the distance. This is good to not disturb your subjects. See the surfing videos below where the zoom makes you feel like you're right on top of them but we're much further away. One angle that does really well with a zoom lens like the 8.25mm is the straight down shot, like the basketball one below. You'll see some examples of this also in the surfing video.
-The 47mm equivalent focal length is a very common focal length for cinematic shots, most commonly used on larger aircraft rigs and setups like the Inspire X5. So it's a focal length people are used to seeing.
-You can get some really great parallax and tracking shots with objects centered in the frame. See the Parallax video with the balloons below to see what I mean. Basically you can pan around and keep an object the main point your eye looks at and then the background blurs slightly behind.

There are though some things you have to keep in mind when using a zoom lens:

-You will almost always need to use various ND filters to stop the light down and allow you to use lower shutter speeds. That's why we worked with Freewell to come out with a filter kit that has ND4-ND64. In bright sunlight you'll need at least a ND16, and with overly white scenes such as snow or concrete you'll need a ND32-ND64. We typically shoot for a shutter speed around 1/250s, as this will remove the rolling shutter jello issues. It's also important to lock your white balance when using ND filters.
-Fast pans will often show the effects of the rolling shutter, so you have to slow your pans down, especially if you're at a lower shutter speed. You'll see an example of this in a shot from the surfer video.
-Something that is highly recommended as well is to balance your props, as you want to reduce any easily corrected vibrations that may exist.

Other than that, we think having a narrow FOV camera for your aerial drone platform is a great option for any pilot, and the professionals will likely find they rarely will go back to the wide-angle setup for most shots. After all, it's a flying camera rig, so it's very easy to move further back for that same wider angle shot if you need it.

8.25mm Lens Specifications:

Model Number: GP82530
Focal Length (1/2.3" sensor): 8.25mm
35mm Equivalent: 47.0mm
Aperture (f Stop): 3.0
Fisheye Distortion: No
Black Vignetting: No
Native Megapixel Support: 16MP
Native Camera Sensor Support: 1/2.3"
Weight: 4.24g
Angle of View (V*H*D): 32 x 41 x 51 degrees
Back Focal Length (BFL): 4.65mm
Dimensions (Diameter x Length): 17.40 x 22.48mm
Thread Material: Metal
Optics Material: Glass - 7 Elements

8.25mm Lens Example Media:


Download (ZIP) Example RAW DNG Samples: HERE

View Gallery of Below Images: HERE
Download (ZIP) Original Full Resolution of Below Images: HERE

Click the Below Images for Full Resolution [Warning, Large Files]


 
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More to install, than the lens costs! LOL !:confused: Good price on the lens though! My hook up with you for one!
 
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It's a lot more difficult than simply removing the original lens as the mount has to be swapped too. As you can see from other threads on here and elsewhere on the internet, removing the lens mount is not a trivial task and due to the added time it takes we have to charge more for the labor.
 
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It's a lot more difficult than simply removing the original lens as the mount has to be swapped too. As you can see from other threads on here and elsewhere on the internet, removing the lens mount is not a trivial task and due to the added time it takes we have to charge more for the labor.
I have swapped my lens already once on another platform, do you think I can swing it myself? Thanks for explaining!
 
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I have swapped my lens already once on another platform, do you think I can swing it myself? Thanks for explaining!
Yes, swapping the mount is well-within most people's skill level, but it's still not something we'd recommend the novice attempt (we have damaged beyond repair two cameras to date performing the modification).

You can find some pointers on removing the original lens mount on our replacement lens mount ordering page.
 
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I have never seen lenses rated in megapixels. What am I missing.
That's because the lenses you're buying/seeing are meant for a specific platform (camera body) which the lens manufacture knows the sensor's megapixel, so the lens is designed as such.

So, for instance with this 8.25mm lens, when we say it's 16 megapixel (MP) and is designed for a 1/2.3" sized sensor, we mean that the glass is sharp enough to resolve the 1.34um sized pixels on a 16MP 1/2.3" sensor. Specifically it's being able to tell the difference between black and white line pairs with a certain millimeter spacing, but that's getting into the specifics of a lens' lp/mm rating which is how its MP is determined.
 
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That's because the lenses you're buying/seeing are meant for a specific platform (camera body) which the lens manufacture knows the sensor's megapixel, so the lens is designed as such.

So, for instance with this 8.25mm lens, when we say it's 16 megapixel (MP) and is designed for a 1/2.3" sized sensor, we mean that the glass is sharp enough to resolve the 1.34um sized pixels on a 16MP 1/2.3" sensor. Specifically it's being able to tell the difference between black and white line pairs with a certain millimeter spacing, but that's getting into the specifics of a lens' lp/mm rating which is how its MP is determined.
Thanks for the explanation, understand now.
 

Steve Carr

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I have seen a few posts by those attempting to change the mount that holds the lens. The wires and ribbon cable are easily damaged during the process of changing the mount. Unless you are very skilled I would not suggest this upgrade in the garage. Just my opinion, but I'd leave it to those who know how to do it properly.
 
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I have seen a few posts by those attempting to change the mount that holds the lens. The wires and ribbon cable are easily damaged during the process of changing the mount. Unless you are very skilled I would not suggest this upgrade in the garage. Just my opinion, but I'd leave it to those who know how to do it properly.
Exactly
 
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I understand that some of the more recent mounts were not threaded at all, or did I misunderstand? If we already have a threaded mount (early production as I understand it), all we have to do is remove the old lens and replace, correct?

I know you have to focus it and remove the glue from the old one and all that. I'm just trying to get to the bottom of the THREAD thing. Is this lens a completely new thread pitch and/or barrel size??
 
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I understand that some of the more recent mounts were not threaded at all, or did I misunderstand? If we already have a threaded mount (early production as I understand it), all we have to do is remove the old lens and replace, correct?

I know you have to focus it and remove the glue from the old one and all that. I'm just trying to get to the bottom of the THREAD thing. Is this lens a completely new thread pitch and/or barrel size??
Correct, many of the new cameras do not have threaded mounts. It's easy to identify as the older grey mounts have threads and the black ones do not. You can see some photos of the non-threaded black mounts on our replacement lens mount ordering page.

The issue though is that these m12 lenses are focused when they are a certain distance from the sensor, so if there are not enough threads, or none at all where the lens would be focused, you need to add threads somehow. If we had a couple of threads to grab onto you could use thread tape and o-rings to try and create a secure lock, but with the 8.25mm lens, it is far enough away from the sensor that the threads in the older grey mounts won't touch the threads on the lens, so you have to replace the mount itself. When we change the stock lens to the 3.97mm there are enough threads so a new mount isn't needed.
 
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So exactly what is the difference... FOV, telescopic or otherwise between this new 8.25 and the 3.97? And the advantage one has over the other? Thanks for such great options in advance!
 
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So exactly what is the difference... FOV, telescopic or otherwise between this new 8.25 and the 3.97? And the advantage one has over the other? Thanks for such great options in advance!
The 8.25mm is over a 2x zoom compared to the stock CGO3+/CGO3 lens, and was designed to be exactly a 2x compared to our 3.97mm (82 degree HFOV vs 41 degrees HFOV). It has improved overall sharpness, reduced chromatic abberation and very little lens flare. If you can even get it to flare, it will be a very faint rainbow flare, and never a concentrated pink/blue point.

The 2x zoom has a few great benefits:

-Able to capture the same scene but be 2x the distance. This is good to not disturb your subjects. We'll have a video of some surfers coming out next week where the zoom makes you feel like you're right on top of them but we're much further away. One angle that does really well with a zoom lens like the 8.25mm is the straight down shot, like the basketball one above. You'll see some examples of this also in the surfing video.
-The 47mm equivalent focal length is a very common focal length for cinematic shots, most commonly used on larger aircraft rigs and setups like the Inspire X5. So it's a focal length people are used to seeing.
-You can get some really great parallax and tracking shots with objects centered in the frame. See the Parallax video with the balloons above to see what I mean. Basically you can pan around and keep an object the main point your eye looks at and then the background blurs slightly behind.

There are though some things you have to keep in mind when using a zoom lens:

-You will almost always need to use various ND filters to stop the light down and allow you to use lower shutter speeds. That's why we worked with Freewell to come out with a kit that has ND4-ND64. In bright sunlight you'll need at least a ND16, and with overly white scenes such as snow or concrete you'll need a ND32-ND64. We typically shoot for a shutter speed around 1/250s, as this will remove the rolling shutter jello issues. It's also important to lock your white balance when using ND filters.
-Fast pans will often show the effects of the rolling shutter, so you have to slow your pans down, especially if you're at a lower shutter speed. You'll see an example of this in a shot from the surfer video.
-Something that is highly recommended as well is to balance your props, as you want to reduce any easily corrected vibrations that may exist.

Other than that, we think having a narrow FOV camera for your aerial drone platform is a great option for any pilot, and the professionals will likely find they rarely will go back to the wide-angle setup for most shots. After all, it's a flying camera rig, so it's very easy to move further back for that same wider angle shot if you need it.
 
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Thanks so much for the in depth response...exactly what I needed to know. I'll definitely be making the transition :)
 
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Having Peau lenses on several of my UAV, and having just ordered this for myself, I'm psyched to get flying with the 8.25 lens. For inspections alone, this is worth the upgrade cost.
I've sent Peau my CGO3+ for the upgrade. I did my own GoPro upgrade which wasn't a big deal, but with the 8.25, I want to be sure the focus and edges are perfect.
 
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Having ordered the lens earlier, I'm waiting. My problem had the magic smooth bore 13 mm hole
The new mount is12mm and I had that shipped to me and mounted it myself. Tricky but doable. I reused a 3.00 fpv lens with 12mm thread and got the neatest pink pix and videos. I had to re use the existing lens until I get my ne we 8.25. Problem was that the old lend is 12.25mm
Thread shrinkage was required go allow it to be used. I did this and refocused, And it works well. Still waiting
 
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This is great news. I did some projects as surveyer and overall results and images are not best for photogrammetry due to wide lens in CGO3+.
I have 2 questions:
1. Will this new lens have any affect on image sharpness since it is double zoom and normally images are taken during movement of drone through prepared path?
2. What will be image resolution, now it is 4000x3000 px, you are writing 16MP, images on your examples are 7000-9000px?
 
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This is great news. I did some projects as surveyer and overall results and images are not best for photogrammetry due to wide lens in CGO3+.
I have 2 questions:
1. Will this new lens have any affect on image sharpness since it is double zoom and normally images are taken during movement of drone through prepared path?
2. What will be image resolution, now it is 4000x3000 px, you are writing 16MP, images on your examples are 7000-9000px?
I will defer to someone with more smarts than I, I do mechanical!
 
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Hi, have you done post production work on any of the example images above? I must say that I am very impressed and have emailed you regarding costs and 'turn around time' from the UK.
 

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