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Throttle Issue

Joined
May 30, 2016
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Couldn't be happier with my "H". I purchased one of the very first birds shipped and it has performed flawlessly....until yesterday. The throttle acts as if the ST-16 "turtle-rabbit" slider is set to turtle but yet it is not.
Any ideas other that resetting the ST-16 back to factory? Every other aspect of the bird works fine.

Thank you in advance, Forrest
 
I'd be checking the Hardware Monitor in the ST16 to make sure you are still getting the full travel for the throttle and also the 'turtle and rabbit" slider.
 
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I'd be checking the Hardware Monitor in the ST16 to make sure you are still getting the full travel for the throttle and also the 'turtle and rabbit" slider.
Just got around to looking at the monitor, and indeed it shows only around 48-50 % at full throttle even when slider is set to rabbit. Thanks for the reply!
 
Ok, so I checked everything within the hardware monitor and the "turtle-rabbit" potentiometer is working/making the complete travel as it should according the the graph. The throttle on the other hand is only getting 50% on the graph. I have factory reset everything but same issue.
 
Sorry to thread jack but why has the H still got problems it's been out awhile now don't think the Q500 has this many Gremlins and am a Q500 owner was suppose to be buying a H next month but to be fair all these problems with it am having doubts
 
Sorry to thread jack but why has the H still got problems it's been out awhile now don't think the Q500 has this many Gremlins and am a Q500 owner was suppose to be buying a H next month but to be fair all these problems with it am having doubts
The H and the Q use the same sticks as far as I know. There is only one replacement stick listed for both units. I have had to clean the sticks on one of my ST10's as well. Since the pots aren't sealed they are subject to the conditions of storage and use. High humidity and dirty air will affect them more quickly. The ST16 has active ventilation using 2 fans for intake and exhaust so more ambient air is passed through. In any case this is an easy fix.
 
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Electrical contact cleaner, if labeled as safe for plastic, is intended for this purpose. It dries quickly and cleans the pots. It is non-conductive in the liquid state.
 
It doesn't matter what the coating is on the control.
"Surface oxidation", dirt, sweat, urine, bowling balls, cheeseburgers, WHATEVER..!!!!

By definition these are CONTROLS and NOT CONTACTS....

I have never used a modern CONTROL cleaner that was harmful to plastics.
In fact, the manufacturers go out of their way to express that...

You can use whatever you wish..
It's YOUR equipment not mine...

I don't wish to become involved in a nit-picking pissing contest.
It's one of the reasons I don't usually involve myself in these forums as I am a busy electronics tech repairing - servicing - restoring vintage & modern audio amplifiers for 35+ years..

Go ahead and have the last word if you must.........

P
Geeeezzzzzz, bad week?:eek:
 
It doesn't matter what the coating is on the control.
"Surface oxidation", dirt, sweat, urine, bowling balls, cheeseburgers, WHATEVER..!!!!

By definition these are CONTROLS and NOT CONTACTS....

I have never used a modern CONTROL cleaner that was harmful to plastics.
In fact, the manufacturers go out of their way to express that...

You can use whatever you wish..
It's YOUR equipment not mine...

I don't wish to become involved in a nit-picking pissing contest.
It's one of the reasons I don't usually involve myself in these forums as I am a busy electronics tech repairing - servicing - restoring vintage & modern audio amplifiers for 35+ years..

Go ahead and have the last word if you must.........

P

Holy crap, PJF!

For the record, I am interested in what both of you have to say (Steve and PJF). Both of you have valid points and I am soaking in the information.

Steve invited you to share the information as to the "control" cleaner to which you refer. I am very interested in that information.

Please don't consider this a "pissing contest". An exchange of experiences and viewpoints, when shared amicably, helps a lot of people.

Thanks!

Jeff
 
Safe for plastic means nothing.
If the pots/controls are dirty the CONTACT cleaner will dissolve the gook in a matter of a split second and also dry in a split second fusing the gook to the pot with the possibility of rendering the control useless.
You will not be able to remove the frozen gook

Control cleaner is used for controls and Contact cleaner for contacts.

But, you may know more than my 40+ years of electronics servicing...

Good luck....

I see a lot of comments about using a cleaner for the control sticks, but if someone would be so kind and offer a brand name of one that works would be much appreciated.

I have had the same problem with the yaw control and with the Hardware Monitor open on the screen, I have pulled the stick to one side and just let go to let it spring back into neutral. I do this in all directions and watch the Hardware monitor. It eventually shows the control going to full 100% in all directions. I make this function part of my preflight checks before each flight.
 
I'm cleaning up this thread. The original question was what to do with a stick that does not respond correctly.

1) Check it in Hardware Monitor. Move the stick slowly and watch the graph for smooth operation. See if it centers properly on the graph. If it is jerky or slow to respond it needs cleaning.
2) If it needs cleaning, it's best to open the ST16, but many people have done this successfully by merely spraying at the base of the stick while moving it in all directions.
3) After cleaning, check it again in Hardware Monitor. If it moves properly but still does not center correctly, then, and only then, do the ST16 calibration. If the stick does not work properly after cleaning then you need to order a new stick. They cost $15.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner-Spray-11-Oz/37971472 This is one type. There are many others.

I am more interested in what works rather than in who suggests the method. There are precious few "experts" anywhere on this airframe. Since the topic was raised, I will only mention that I started repairing aircraft navigational equipment 51 years ago doing component level repair. I wrote manuals and trained technicians in troubleshooting procedures and repair. I still make mistakes and often find other people have a better method of doing things. That is welcome and encouraged. If you feel the need to correct someone you should be prepared to back it up.
 
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Sorry to thread jack but why has the H still got problems it's been out awhile now don't think the Q500 has this many Gremlins and am a Q500 owner was suppose to be buying a H next month but to be fair all these problems with it am having doubts

I don't see most of what I see in "problem" threads as problems anymore. I see a large number of periodic maintenance issues, still much too many people failing to follow widely published firmware upgrade instructions, a continuing lack of definitive info relative to RealSense and the optical positioning system, failure to maintain the company website, reluctance to calibrate systems, lack of piloting skill, flying too far out, and only a few actual hardware issues.

Most of the "problems" are induced by the users. You can't tell them that since "anybody can fly a multirotor" and nobody ever does anything wrong. So the product must be defective...
 
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I see a lot of comments about using a cleaner for the control sticks, but if someone would be so kind and offer a brand name of one that works would be much appreciated.
...<snip>....
Dunno if you can get it in the U.S.A.or anywhere else for that matter, but for this kind of stuff I use WD40. The stuff has been around for bloody years. I'm sure there are other products around that does the job equally as well, but WD40 is my suggestion.

Edit to say that this is the Contact cleaner WD40. The original WD40 should not be used on electrics.
 
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