PatR
Premium Pilot
Throttle Issue
- Thread starter Forrestt
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- throttle issues
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
Why not? Spray a little on, wipe off, let it dry then it's good to go. I've never had an issue with it. I use it on my motorbike all the time. It is a specialist electrical contact cleaner.
edit.Here is an Amazon link
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-40-Spec...03776861&sr=8-1&keywords=wd40+contact+cleaner
Last edited:
PatR
Premium Pilot
Motorbikes don't operate using a whole lot of open electrical systems that will short out when oil/liquids bridge electrical traces and contact points. Motorbikes are largely mechanical systems that require some form of grease/dirt/carbon removal and lubrication.
Note, this is not your Father's WD40. This is another contact cleaner using the name for recognition. Could backfire on them.
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
Yep. I know. But there are open electrical bits that I do use it on. Where I live is notoriously damp and I often get problems with a certain micro switch connected with the side stand in that sometimes when I kick the side stand down my engine stops. Using WD40 on this in particular sorts it out for a couple of months.
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
Ahh. I should have made that clear in my post. My father's WD 40 is good to, but not on electrics. I agree that shouldn't be used on electrical bits. That would make your day a bad one.
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
WD40 contact cleaner. I should have made that clear.
I have edited my earlier post to make that clear.
Being in radio and television engineering for 30 years now, contact cleaner is one of the staples we have on the shelf. Lots of relays, switches, potentiometers, rheostats, and faders require maintenance during their lives. Even the so-called "sealed" controls require periodic cleaning with contact cleaner - which can be a bit of a bear to "unseal" good enough to be able to clean!
One can find contact cleaner from major brands such as WD-40, LPS, CRC, Cramolin, Max chemicals... but I've found the best general purpose stuff to use is DeOxIt brand contact cleaners, of which they make several kinds. The best for potentiometers is the F series stuff; it cleans and lubricates, and is made specifically for the wiper contact on a conductive plastic potentiometer like the controls in our controllers. Thing is, you'll need to remove the stick from the controller. Just squirting this stuff in the cracks around the stick isn't going to put the contact cleaner where it needs to go.
And the best thing to remove heavy deposits (think, the kind of crud you'd get if you drop the controller in the mud or water)... a tub of de-ionized or distilled water. Just remove the battery first, and disassemble as much as you can for the bath. Dry with a hair dryer.
One can find contact cleaner from major brands such as WD-40, LPS, CRC, Cramolin, Max chemicals... but I've found the best general purpose stuff to use is DeOxIt brand contact cleaners, of which they make several kinds. The best for potentiometers is the F series stuff; it cleans and lubricates, and is made specifically for the wiper contact on a conductive plastic potentiometer like the controls in our controllers. Thing is, you'll need to remove the stick from the controller. Just squirting this stuff in the cracks around the stick isn't going to put the contact cleaner where it needs to go.
And the best thing to remove heavy deposits (think, the kind of crud you'd get if you drop the controller in the mud or water)... a tub of de-ionized or distilled water. Just remove the battery first, and disassemble as much as you can for the bath. Dry with a hair dryer.
WD-40 is a brand. That brand makes a contact cleaner. But let's not let facts get in the way of feelings, right?
Sorry, PJF; it's called contact cleaner, because, guess what? There's a contact inside the actual device - the point that contacts the resistor and connects the wiper lead to the outside world. The wiper is a contact point. There's a reason that even DeoxIT calls it, "contact cleaner".
By the way, the device that actually measures the position of the sticks inside the ST16 is not called a control. I't called a potentiometer.
If you wish to call it a "control cleaner" and a "control" then you have every right to be wrong. For me, I'll continue to call it what the manufacturer calls it, and call it by it's standard electronics name, instead of what I feel it should be called.
Incidentally, deionized water IS a dielectric.
Sorry, PJF; it's called contact cleaner, because, guess what? There's a contact inside the actual device - the point that contacts the resistor and connects the wiper lead to the outside world. The wiper is a contact point. There's a reason that even DeoxIT calls it, "contact cleaner".
By the way, the device that actually measures the position of the sticks inside the ST16 is not called a control. I't called a potentiometer.
If you wish to call it a "control cleaner" and a "control" then you have every right to be wrong. For me, I'll continue to call it what the manufacturer calls it, and call it by it's standard electronics name, instead of what I feel it should be called.
Incidentally, deionized water IS a dielectric.
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
The sticks used for the Q500 and the H seems to be susceptible to oxidation. I doubt that dirt is the culprit since these things spend most of their life resting in a box. They are exposed to the outside environment only briefly. The pots are very small. The plastic "box" is like 3/8" square and it is not sealed. Spraying contact cleaner onto the pot with a white paper towel to catch the drippings reveals no residue. Doing so has not produced anything but positive results. The life expectancy of the entire system is likely less than 5 years since most people will move to the latest and greatest as opposed to a bad stick.
We passed the point here of overkill. The stick is a $15 part and easily replaced. However, even new sticks have needed cleaning from just sitting on a shelf. Add to that, most of the owners would rather just spray the little guys and get them working in 10 minutes. So far the cleaning process has not produced any repeat customers so it seems to be effective. Lets leave it there and just move on.
We passed the point here of overkill. The stick is a $15 part and easily replaced. However, even new sticks have needed cleaning from just sitting on a shelf. Add to that, most of the owners would rather just spray the little guys and get them working in 10 minutes. So far the cleaning process has not produced any repeat customers so it seems to be effective. Lets leave it there and just move on.
Ugh. I'll refrain from this apparent pishing contest you seem to want to start. I will say though, you've got one of the largest chips on your shoulder I think I've seen in a while.
Thanks for the "good luck" there, chief, but I'll let you keep it. You really need to figure a way to turn it into a blade to cut out that huge growth of excess ego you've been straddled with.
No matter what you feel, the fact remains that before spraying contact cleaner into our potentiometers we had a controller that wouldn't work properly, and that after cleaning them with a contact cleaner, the controllers work perfectly.
Thanks for the "good luck" there, chief, but I'll let you keep it. You really need to figure a way to turn it into a blade to cut out that huge growth of excess ego you've been straddled with.
No matter what you feel, the fact remains that before spraying contact cleaner into our potentiometers we had a controller that wouldn't work properly, and that after cleaning them with a contact cleaner, the controllers work perfectly.
The life expectancy of your membership on the forum is much shorter based on your attitude and inability to comprehend acceptable behavior.
pjf is taking a vacation from the forum. Sorry for the delay as I removed the insulting and abusive remarks. Proclaiming oneself as an excellent debater carries no weight in this forum. It's not a debate forum. It is a place for civil discourse and will remain so.
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