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Unexpected Typhoon H battery failures

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Those are only effective if a battery will accept and hold a charge. I have original batteries obtained in May 2016 that won’t last 3 minutes after coming off a fresh charge on a warm day. They’ve been well cared for but they have gotten old.
 
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Sad truth is most drone manufacturers seem to have scrimped when it comes to their batteries. I have well cared for packs I use in my planes that are going on 3-1/2 yers of hard use that are still going strong. It's looking like 18 to 24 months is the best you can expect from Yuneec packs.
 
That’s the problem with proprietary battery packs, we don’t know the quality level. Instead we are provided what was obtained from the lowest bidder among bulk battery manufacturers. The cheapest wholesale supplier will never be delivering the best quality.
 
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Cold is Lipos worst nightmare, buy one of these and a small powerbank and you can hike almost all day in freezing cold and unpack a nice warm drone and batteries :)

https://www.amazon.de/Rokoo-Elektrische-Heizkissen-Heizelement-Gürtel/dp/B078NRVS8R/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548369317&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=usb+powered+heating+element
Thanks, I've now purchased one of these - although I don't think it would have helped this battery, which I now believe to be dead.
 
Sad truth is most drone manufacturers seem to have scrimped when it comes to their batteries. I have well cared for packs I use in my planes that are going on 3-1/2 yers of hard use that are still going strong. It's looking like 18 to 24 months is the best you can expect from Yuneec packs.
This is really sad, being one of the most essential safety aspects of a drone.
 
I purchased two DY3’s and finally came in last week.

Today I charged 3 batteries here are the results.

2090mAh (3.89v per cell) Original Yuneec 5400mAh purchased March 2017

2489mAh (3.90v per cell) Original Yuneec 5400mAh purchased March 2017

2565mAh (3.90v Per cell) UltraX 6300mAh purchased December 2018

Voltages read by DT830 Digital multimeter.

The DY3 shows 4.2V when fully charged?
 
Can some body explain the differences of mAh?
Like I mentioned the DY3 showed 4.2v fully charged, but my meter read the following listed above. 3.9v / 3.8v per cell for a total of 15.6v
 
Batteries have three main things that rate them:

1) Voltage, usually voltage per cell x #cells (rated at "nominal" voltage of 3.7 v/cell for normal lipos) - 4S pack is rated as 14.8 volts. Full charge is 16.8 volts.
2) Capacity expressed in milliamp-hours (mAh). A 1,000 mAh pack will drain completely in 1 hour with a 1,000 mA load.
3) "C" rating, means the discharge performance under load. So a 10C pack means it is rated for discharge at 10 times the capacity. So a 1,000 mAh pack can take a 10 amp (10,000 mAh) load. Of course it will drain quickly under that load.

With respect to the cell voltages you are seeing, for a normal lipo 4.2 volts per cell is fully charged. 3.8 to 3.9 volt per cell is less than a full charge. But it is possible that one, or both, instruments are not reading accurately. Not sure what you are using to measure the lower voltage, but if it is putting a load on the pack that may explain it.

This is a common problem. Most of the stuff we use to measure voltage is pretty cheap. I would try another instrument to see if it confirms either what the charger is telling you or what the other meter is saying.
 
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As I believe Phaedrus to be an engineer and much more capable with relating the technicalities than me I'll reserve the technical side for him to explain. I'm more of the "meatball" type". For discussion purposes my explanation references a battery in perfect condition. Battery age and the manner they have been used widely impacts how they will perform with cell voltage and delivery of energy.

For ease of simple comparisons I'll say that mA can be likened to ounces of gas in a gallon. If we relate gallons to volts and ounces to mA we have a comparative starting point. Depending on how long or how fast you drove a number of time over the same distance with a 5 gallon (5v) gas tank the number of ounces or fractions of an ounce (mA;)) of gas required to refill the tank would be different. If you drove with the pedal to the floor the vehicle would consume more fuel for the distance than if the vehicle was driven slow and gently. Taking that a little further, the number of ounces or fractions of an ounce required to fill the tank is dependent on the amount of fuel that was in the tank before you elected to fill it. At the end of the day you started with a 5 gallon gas tank and ended with a 5 gallon gas tank. Where total capacity in volts or amps is concerned nothing changed. What did change was the number of ounces, or fractions of an ounce (or mA for comparative reference) of gas you used and replenished.

Where our batteries are concerned mA capacity works in a similar fashion. We can effectively gauge % of capacity using mA counts. With a little practice we can establish where the voltage should be after using "X" number of mA. Inversely, we can (very roughly) estimate how many mA were consumed by looking at the displayed voltage level.

The mA count we see after charging a battery is what the charger is saying was received by the battery during the charging process. In theory, if you had a 5000mA battery that took 2500mA to charge it back to full state that battery was 50% discharged when you put it on the charger. That is not an accurate statement though as I've seen many batteries where the charger displayed a mA count higher than a battery's label capacity after a charge cycle was complete.

As I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer I lack the ability to get extremely technical but voltage and mA are directly related as voltage falls or rises as mA are consumed or added. The voltage level a battery is at when it is placed on a charger determines how many mA it will need to charge it back to full state. If we took two batteries of the same rated voltage and capacity and placed them side by side on a dual charger that had both been flown the same amount of time, more often than not the mA count to recharge them would be different as the voltage levels would have been slightly different when they were placed in the charge cycle. 1/100v difference between them at the start of the cycle causes a difference in mA input. The end voltage would be the same (+/- a couple 1/100's v/cell) but the number of mA required for them to achieve the final voltage would be different.

From my position, mA is the unit of measure used to determine how much energy was used or required to achieve a full charge. It's what I use to establish percentage of consumption as "X" mA consumed is pretty consistent in establishing voltage level. Some of the better DIY type flight controllers (Pixhawk, APM, Vector) provide mA consumption estimators in their telemetry displays. I love those things as they make things a lot easier when gauging remaining flight time. Battery bar graph displays do nothing for me as without any calibration documentation they cannot be trusted.

People that are good with Ohm's law and electrical calculations are probably very good at the math involved with the relationship of mA to voltage but I'm not in that group, using multiple flights of various times and charge cycles to learn battery percentages established through mA count, which also determines voltage, where voltage is what Yuneec employs for a user reference.

Your turn, Phaedrus:)
 
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Ok, went out and flew this morning, my batteries that I charged up yesterday with my new DY3's has gone bad. 1st 3 batteries got only max 2 minutes and less, each.:mad:
My new UltraX got only 7½ minutes.:mad:
I will recycle these batteries using the Venom charger and see what happens. I'll have to wait a couple days before doing this. Weather very windy with gusts in excess of 21mph. Rain in the forecast tomorrow.
 
It is always recommended to warm your packs up when it is cold outside. I'll put them on the floor of the car with the heater on, let them sit on the dash, etc. Some folks go so far as to use heating pads, etc.

Can you refresh my memory on how you checked voltage after charging?
 
It is always recommended to warm your packs up when it is cold outside. I'll put them on the floor of the car with the heater on, let them sit on the dash, etc. Some folks go so far as to use heating pads, etc.

Can you refresh my memory on how you checked voltage after charging?
I use my DT830 multimeter to check each individual cell.
the meter works perfectly, I tested out on the outlets here at the house and a 9 volt battery, no issues.
 
That was important. Check the code under the release latch. If part of it notes 2016 the battery is at least two years old even if you just recently obtained it. Batteries degrade over time and become unreliable. Cells self damage and lose charge quickly and can be unpredictable in performance.
aaaaah the old days of reliable ni cads,the more u drained them the betterthey were
 
@Phaedrus
Found out it may be the motors causing drag /friction. When turning the motors by hand they make a horrible noise, as if bearing are bad. So I'll order new motors. You know after 4352 minutes of flight on the original motors it's time for an overhaul!
 
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Just ordered 8 new engines, Vertigo Drones had them in stock:) Carolina Drones did not.
 

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