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What the user manual didn't tell me, but should have.

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There are 2 basic types of Typhoon H and ST16:
The first Typhoon H has an ST16 with 2 external antennas, the UAV has 2 2.4GHz wire antennas taped horizontally to the sides of the UAV body.
The second improved Typhoon H has an ST16 with 3 external antennas, the UAV has 2 2.4GHz wire antennas contained in 2 nearly vertical plastic sleeves by the landing gear.

The Typhoon H Pro can be either of the above with an Intel "Real Sense" module attached (+$500)

Various packages are sold of the above 4 configurations by adding accessories (extra battery, extra set of props, backpack, etc.)

The following observations/findings were taken from using a 3 external antenna ST16 and the UAV with 2 vertically polarized 2.4 GHz wire antennas in plastic sleeves:

1) OBS ()
Not available in Safe mode.

2) Battery Charge Indicator:
Observe the main LED when turning the H on (either fully On or the momentary On)
It will show either Green or Orange or Red for approximately 0.5 sec in momentary On, or 2 sec in maintained On.
Green = Battery “fully” charged >=15.9V,Green (up to 16.95V)
Orange/Amber = Battery is "50%" charged (>= 15.0V Orange <=15.8V)
Red = Battery is “fully” discharged <=14.9V, Red (down to 14.1V)
see:

It takes ~2 hrs to charge a "fully" discharged (2nd alert +) UAV battery and ~3 hrs to charge a 1/2 discharged ST16 battery.

3) Use dental floss to encircle ends of camera platform dampeners when installing them
also remove shield from fixed part of platform to access dampener holes for floss pull through.

4) H's 5.8 GHz (Video) antenna is a LHCP "cloverleaf", probably 2 dBi.
H Pro's 2 2.8 GHz telemetry antennas are vertically polarized pieces of wire by the landing gear and probably 0dBi - at best.
Need 2 2,4GHz antennas 3-3.5" long with no joint for antenna mod.

ST16's 2.4 GHz antennas are linearly polarized and 2-3 dBi.
ST16's 5.8 GHZ "mushroom" antenna is omni and 0-2 dBi
ST16's 5.8 GHz "Flat" antenna is directional and 2-3 dBi

5) Battery + & -:
spade contacts on far left and far right are + & -
+ is vertical, - is horizontal when looking at the inserted end of battery as it would be inserted into the UAV.

6) When charging the ST16 controller tap once on the screen to see the charging status.
White area moving from left to right in the block indicates it's charging.
The black area on the right at full extent of the left to right movement indicates the remaining amount to be charged.
When the block is all white with no left to right movement the battery is fully charged.

7) Peter Venkman, Aug 30, 2016 For your information ST-16 Calibration ( secret menu )

On the ST16. When you access the secret menu and do the calibration test for the ST16. it's important that the TILT and the Turtle / Rabbit sliders are set to the middle.
(not at the top, not at the bottom, but in the middle)

On the flight mode screen:

Tap the system settings,
Tap the About Controller many times,
this will open the secret menu,
You will see:

ENTER TEST
HW TEST
WIFI TEST
CALIBRATE TEST
HDMI SETTINGS
FIRMWARE UPGRADE

My Gimbal would not pan well. It would not go to horizon and always stay below the horizon.
I did several Gimball calibrations, i could see the camera going up and doing is thing perfectly fine. But the camera would always point a bit down.
I could see it wasn't a gimbal problem.
( this calibration could be useful for H that drift and can't keep a perfect hoover )
I tried to calibrate the ST-16 many times, and the pan slider in HARDWARE MONITOR would always behave differently. ( not going completely up on the HARDWARE MONITOR when the slider was physically completely up )
That's when i understood that the pan " slider " probably needed to be in a certain position before doing the calibrations.
I tried it starting in the center position and sure enough, my problem was gone.
The gimbal is now working as it should.
Go in CALIBRATE TEST then, press START ( at the bottom )
Press all the buttons they ask you until they become GREEN.
once all of them are green. Press NEXT ( at the bottom )
Re-do the same thing with all the buttons on the remote. ( ALL OF THEM EVEN CAMERA OR CAMCORDER )
Once you are done, all icons should be green. Press FINISH at the bottom and go back to the FLIGHT MODE SCREEN.
Go to HARDWARE MONITOR and check that the behavior of all your " buttons / sticks / sliders " are behaving normally.
If not, remake the calibration.
When doing the calibration, it's important to push the sticks all the way in all working directions. ( up / down / left / right )
Toggle switches that have 3 positions need to go in all of those 3 positions in order to calibrate.
I wouldn't recommend to go in this setting unless you are desperate ( like i was ) and have tried everything you think you should have tried.
In my case, i did the GPS calibration, Compass calibration, gimbal calibration / i checked to see if my firmware were up to date. Removed the battery. Made a complete factory reset. Re-Binded both the H and the ST-16. Remade all those calibrations. Made the gimbal calibration 4 or 5 times. Then, tried the ST-16 Calibration.
I was desperate and had nothing to loose !
Be aware this could maybe F*** up you H.
I wanted to share this with you, and this makes me a place to go back to if i ever feel the need to remake a calibration.

8) Haydn Gerken on Nov 10, 2016 (paraphrased) Yuneec Typhoon H Landing Gear Motor Assembly 1 Piece

One of the common problems with the Typhoon H is landing gear non-operation. The issue is with the pot metal landing gear knuckles.
The knuckles are probably designed to fail preventing damage to more expensive components, BUT;

The issue is having to buy a complete motor and knuckle assembly, just to get the knuckle assembly.
The knuckle assembly is the only part of the landing gear which breaks probably 95% of the time.

This whole replacement part is made up of four parts.
1) the plastic casing (never had one damaged)
2) the electric motor and 3 pin contact board (can be damaged if water is introduced into it)
3) the worm drive (essentially a threaded rod with an elongated nut on it that is trapped in a parallel guide so when the motor turns the nut moves up on the greased threads raising, or down lowering the landing struts.
4) the knuckle assembly itself (and here is the problem and issue) has a pivot point with a "Sideways U" on the end of which slips over the nut on the worm drive. One of the arms of the "Sideways U" will break off rendering the legs inoperative.

If the small cast metal knuckles could be obtained alone it would lower repair costs substantially.
They would probably sell for a few dollars as opposed to the current $30 cost of the motor and knuckle assembly.
It would be necessary to take apart the undamaged motor assembly, replace the damaged knuckle and broken pot metal pieces with the new knuckle, and reassemble - all can be easily done with the removal of 5 small phillips head screws.

9) T-16 controller 3 antenna connectors are RP-SMA female (pin), the 3 antenna's connectors must be RP-SMA male (no pin, socket).

10) Although video is transmitted to the ST16 whether the UAV camera is recording or not, the ST16 only records the UAV transmitted 1280x720x30fps~1,800kbps (HD 720P) stream if the UAV camera is recording.

11) In flight the apex of the green "winged" triangle icon in the middle of the ST16 screen indicates which direction relative to the ST16 location the UAV is pointing.

12) Videos & Pictures
a) CGO3+ camera has a 98 FOV, takes 12.4 Mpixel .jpgs
b) CGO3+ SD card recordings are .jpgs or .mp4s.
c) The CGO3+ recordings are sequentially labeled "YUN000nn.xxx". the last YUN000nn number will be incremented by 1 for the next pic/video. If there are no recordings the label will be YUN00001.xxx
c) ST16 internal recordings are .pngs and .mp4s.
d) The ST16 recordings have a unique identifier for each recording.
e) If you forget to turn off the camera before shutting down the UAV, the next time you connect to the UAV and turn on and off the camera the unsaved file or corrupted file will be saved or uncorrupted, in addition to the newly correctly saved file.

13) Check WiFi is OFF in Android pad?
No. WiFi for surfing the net is the same WiFi chip controlling the Typhoon.
Can't anyway, WiFi is automatically turned on going into the flight mode screen.
 
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R

Rayray

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11) In flight the apex of the green "winged" triangle icon in the middle of the ST16 screen indicates which direction relative to the ST16 location the UAV is pointing.

Say what?
Where is Waldo?
Someone once said the green arrow points back toward the factory in China.
 

PatR

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There are times I think the arrow is the smartest thing associated with an airborne H. Push the stick the direction the arrow is pointing and it's coming home.
 
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Nice group of tips.

And thanks for the quote
 
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I believe there is another rendition, which is the one I have. It's a Typhoon H with Intel RealSense Technology in the programming. There is no module attached and there is no "Pro" after its name. When I bought this on March 18, 2017, I couldn't get RealSense to work, so I actually thought that Fry's Electronics had ripped me off, charging me $1,899 for an H that was not a Pro. I contacted Yuneec and they explained that the newest H's with Intel RealSense don't need the module and don't have Pro after their name. He told me how to identify mine, and whether or not it actually had RealSense. It does. He also taught me how to get it working, a process that is not in any of their user manuals. As a previous writer and editor of user manuals for 37 years, I gave him my thoughts on their crappy user manuals.
 
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IMG_1637.JPG IMG_1639.JPG IMG_1640.JPG I think my friend you have been conned.
Intel Realsense is an extra part attached to the base of the drone.
It has three camera type sensors out the front.
It has two downward facing sonars next to the cooling fan on its base.
If your drone does not have that. You have been ripped off.
I'll upload a couple of pictures of the modules.
 
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Rayray

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I contacted Yuneec and they explained that the newest H's with Intel RealSense don't need the module and don't have Pro after their name. He told me how to identify mine, and whether or not it actually had RealSense. It does. He also taught me how to get it working,

Surely you jest.
This is hard to believe. Kindly PM me and tell me who at Yuneec told you this?
 
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Did the seller also give you the phone number for Yuneec?
As I think it is probably his cousin Frank he gave the number of pretending to be Yuneec
Please post some pics of your undercarriage...
The drones that is not yours
 
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I have been flying drones for years and fail to see the need for this Real Sense. If I could disable OBS all together I would. IMO it's just simply not necessary if you know how to fly. Sucks that russleray might have been taken for a ride here though.
 
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I have been flying drones for years and fail to see the need for this Real Sense. If I could disable OBS all together I would. IMO it's just simply not necessary if you know how to fly. Sucks that russleray might have been taken for a ride here though.


Hummmmmm.... it is quite easy to disable OBS.

Everyone has to make his own choice. Some people fly 'better' then others because some have, or at least think they have, more 'talent' to do so.
In the end everybody pays his own bills.

But unfortunately this thread is going more and more off topic.
 
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Hummmmmm.... it is quite easy to disable OBS.

Everyone has to make his own choice. Some people fly 'better' then others because some have, or at least think they have, more 'talent' to do so.
In the end everybody pays his own bills.

But unfortunately this thread is going more and more off topic.

By that I mean not having the switch do anything, disabled as such. As you said, we digress.
 
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Notwithstanding all these pictures and contrary statements, Yuneec got me up and running so that I can make money with my Typhoon H. That's all I need. The only thing I can't get it to do is save pictures in a DNG format. Yuneec can't get it to do that, either, so I'm probably buying a second Typhoon H this weekend since they are on sale for Memorial Day for $1,499, and send this one in for fixing.
 
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. . . If I could disable OBS all together I would. IMO it's just simply not necessary if you know how to fly.

By that I mean not having the switch do anything, disabled as such.

You can. Do a search for a thread titled "Eliminate Smart Mode". In it I show how to make it so that the smart mode position has the same output value as the angle position thus making it so that the switch has two positions for angle and then the RTH at bottom. In your case you would simply repeat the same procedure for the OBS switch so that the "On" position's output value is the same as "Off".
 
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You can. Do a search for a thread titled "Eliminate Smart Mode". In it I show how to make it so that the smart mode position has the same output value as the angle position thus making it so that the switch has two positions for angle and then the RTH at bottom. In your case you would simply repeat the same procedure for the OBS switch so that the "On" position's output value is the same as "Off".
Awesome! I'll look into it thanks!
 
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RTFM. Just flip the switch to "Off". After that leave the switch alone. Terminating the switch is a more dramatic action, but is quite effective.
I understand how to turn it off sir, and I read everything. I am not new to this. I'm talking about a fail-safe, gone, no longer turn on-able, disassemble #5, switch does nothing-kinda deal.
 

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