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Yuneec adds impressive “unlisted” camera capabilities in latest Typhoon H firmware update

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I would like to see a full resolution copy of their HDR image mentioned in the article. The one on the page doesn't show much detail.
 
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Having EXIF data would make it easier for the software to automatically pick tonal ranges from the individual images.

I have had really good results doing HDR from a single RAW image.You don't get the same extreme range that you can get from multiple images, but you can get very natural-looking HDR images. I haven't tried it with a CGO3+ DNG yet because I'm still waiting for my Typhoon, so I don't know if those RAW images have the required dynamic range.
 
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Having EXIF data would make it easier for the software to automatically pick tonal ranges from the individual images.

I have had really good results doing HDR from a single RAW image.You don't get the same extreme range that you can get from multiple images, but you can get very natural-looking HDR images. I haven't tried it with a CGO3+ DNG yet because I'm still waiting for my Typhoon, so I don't know if those RAW images have the required dynamic range.
I have tried that, this image was from a single RAW to produce 2 images then blended manually in PS. Probably could have been done just in LR but I prefer to blend
chrome-hill-005.jpg
 
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Not sure why they mentioned Exif and HDR as the two do not need each other... unless you place at least 3 images in a software program that looks at the exposure to create the final merged product.

If Yuneec added the 3 or 5 bracketed snapshot option than we could all clap.
 
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I have Lightroom but don't use it for HDR -- I purchased HDRSoft's Photomatix Pro for that purpose. Tons of flexibility and processing options, and had the ability to generate HDR images from a RAW file long before Lightroom.
 
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Only ever done a few HDR images, I have used Photomatix but prefer a programme called SNS HDR Pro. It is a little gentler and seems to give more realistic results.
To my mind if you can tell it is HDR then it is a failure. As I say I prefer to take several exposures and then blend manually, sometimes using Luminosity masks which gives greater control of the finished image.
 
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Dare I ask what the technique of merging 2 images is?
Well it would be a long post, but in short:

Take one image exposed for the shadows
Take a second image exposed for the highlights (sky)
Two images may do iit or you may need more.
Run both images through a RAW processor (this step is not essential)
Open both images as layers in Photoshop or similar, so here we have the two images one sat on top of another.
You can then add a layer mask to the top image, this in effect allows you to rub out the bits you don't want. So for example if the highlights image is on top then the shadows will be black so we rub out the too dark areas to allow the image nelow with correctly exposed shadows to show through.
Then we merge the layers and we are done.
It allows us to see a greater dynamic range than the camera can record but the eyes can see.

Obviously this was a simplified explanation, and it takes some practice. There are techniques that can make this easier to get good gradients like using luminosity masks that autmatically mask off the area of a certain luminosity. Tony Kuyper Photography—Using Luminosity Masks—Introduction
 
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To add to what I posted earlier;
There is no need to blend multiple exposures or try HDR unless the camera cannot capture the full dynamic range.
In a DSLR there is a histogram which shows you if you have lost any detail by clipping the highlights or shadows. This means that there is zero information in the image and it will show as either totally white or totally Black. In the CGO3+ we do not have the luxury of a histogram so we have to decide if we are clipping by eye. If we are or think we are then this is the time to take several images. If you have software like photoshop then the H is steady enough and the software will align the images for you and then you can blend them manually if there is a need or desire.

In my image above I took several exposures at different settings as it is straight into the sun and there are also some quite dark shadows, but in fact I produced the image from just one exposure, the CGO3+ actually did a better job than I expected. True it is quite dark in the bottom corners and i could have brought that out from another image but I quite like it how it is. (The little white dots are sheep by the way ;))

Some other things to consider if you are not a photographer:
Even though we are shooting aerial we must not forget that we still need a good composition, it is easy to get carried away because it looks so good as we fly. I am sure we have all looked at a fantastic viewpoint on holiday and taken a snap of it, only to be dissapointed when we get it home.
With a camera we need to compose to keep the eye interested. There are many ways to do this but consider not going too high, we can get a unique viewpoint at just 20 feet sometimes. Perhaps use a tree as foreground. Think of using leading lines. One reason the image above works is the hill which is nicely lit leads the eye to the sun and then keeps the eye in the image by exploring the rest of the frame. Try doing this with a winding river, a line of trees or rocks.

Other things that can work are diagonals, repeating patterns, odd numbers like a single tree or three objects, isolation, juxtaposition and many more techniques.

Apologies for rambling on, below is an image that works on diagonal patterns and a right to left leading line that leads to a small hill, without that small hill the eye would probably wander out of the image, I will leave it to you to decide whether it works, but you get the idea
chrome-hill-006.jpg
 
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Have you ever tried Capture One?
I think Capture One is superior to Lightroom and is more professional. Capture One handles photos much better. I have used Lightroom since version 3 up to CC but feel that Capture One handles photos more effectively and you will see a drastic difference in the image quality right away.
 

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