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So we just defined what is being used for comparative purposes but unless you had your first child 67 years ago there’s no possibility of me being you son, nor likely your inferior[emoji6]

I’m curious, what commercial drone tests did the FAA administer prior to implementation of Part 107 in 2016? I don’t recall there being any testing requirements for Part 333. I’m aware that corporate drone operations often required various levels of testing and qualification prior to Part 107, and continues through the present, but not of FAA certification testing.
 
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Horrible battery life? Perhaps it’s necessary to define what “horrible” is, and what is being used for comparison. For a camera drone of the size and weight with the speed available to a Typhoon H the amount of time a new, well maintained factory battery provides is not bad at all. If we were to compare H flight time to an Inspire 1, an aircraft similar in size that employs a considerably more expensive battery than used for an H, we might find actual flight times are not much different. If we compare to a Phantom, a smaller and lighter aircraft that again uses a more expensive battery we would see the Phantom have slightly better flight time, but not a lot better. Only 4 years ago a decent quality camera rig was only getting about 6 or 7 minutes of flight time, max, when flown gently with GPS turned off, and those were flown with 10,000-12,000mA 6S batteries.

Things have come a long way, relatively, since then, and systems now provide operators a lot more functionality than before using lower capacity batteries. Can we obtain equal or more flight time for less money? Sure we can but few are willing to execute the simple modifications to their aircraft that would allow for it. Instead, people line up to buy proprietary battery shell or “smart” batteries that are grossly over priced for the amount of energy available.

Perhaps a perception of “horrible” flight time stems from a lack of battery knowledge and the many factors that impact flight time. There’s also the situation where some will forever want for more than they have, regardless of how much they may have. If anyone really needs unlimited flight time they could always buy a tethered system with a real long cord. Those that don’t learn to plan a flight prior to take off and fly the plan.
PatR,
What are these "simple modifications to their aircraft" you speak of?
 
Anyone have any luck usingthe batteries?
MaximalPower 8050mAh 14.8V Replacement Lipo Battery 4S for Yuneec Typhoon H Drone

Amazon has them for $150
Thanks
 
Anyone have any luck usingthe batteries?
MaximalPower 8050mAh 14.8V Replacement Lipo Battery 4S for Yuneec Typhoon H Drone

Amazon has them for $150
Thanks

Hi, I have used and still use four GiFI 8050mA without problem. I also have three original H batteries. The GiFi 8050mA gives me approx 1,5-2,5 minutes longer flight time.
These figures comes from about 15-20 flights with each battery. I always discharge with a DY3 to 15,3V and land @ 14.5V. None of the batteries are so far swollen.
Best from Sweden.
 
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Anyone have any luck usingthe batteries?
MaximalPower 8050mAh 14.8V Replacement Lipo Battery 4S for Yuneec Typhoon H Drone

Amazon has them for $150
Thanks

So do you have a H Pro or a H Plus? The above batteries will not be the HV batteries the H Plus normally uses, so your performance will never match someone using them in the H or H Pro.
 
Does anyone know the C rating of these batteries? I have a very capable charger, a Revolectrix Power Lab 6, and it allows complete control of pretty much all charging parameters, as well as lots of output power. My current limit on the latter is my power supply, it's 24 v. at 15 amps, the charger will handle up to 32 v. at 40 amps. I've been out of the RC world for a couple of years, but I seem to recall that most any LiPo could safely be charged at a 2C rate with no ill effects, and much faster charging. Has anyone done so, or should I plan on sticking to a 1C charge rate? Thanks.

Dave
 
PatR,
What are these "simple modifications to their aircraft" you speak of?

Before going into that we need to first accept some inconvenient truths;
1) Lithium ion batteries have a finite lifespan, used or unused.
2) Yuneec batteries are not as good as they could be.
3) The new batteries currently being provided by Yuneec for the H have for the most part have started to degrade because, although unused they are two or more years old.
4) The batteries bought by the early buyers of the Typhoon H have started to degrade because of both age and use cycles.
5) Unless noted, we don't know the age of after market batteries being sold for the Typhoon H.
6) Proprietary batteries are a brilliant means to assure product model obsolescence.

Those flying a Q-500, Chroma, Typhoon 500 4K, H-920, and H-920 Plus started experiencing the same problems somewhat earlier and have the same issues that Typhoon H owners are soon to face, which is a continued source for reliable power supplies. Anyone obtaining a new battery that has individual cells providing double digit IR values new out of the box needs to understand those new batteries are not as healthy as a new battery should be.

If we accept the above as factual we will recognize that if we desire to continue to use aircraft models that are in all ways except power supply fully capable of continued use we'll have to come up with alternative power sources. In and of itself that should not be a problem but what does become a problem (for some) is battery configuration. If Yuneec ceases manufacturing of any given model it will not be long afterwards that after market manufacturers will cease the manufacture of proprietary case after market batteries, so supply will soon be depleted. Where do we go for batteries or how can we make use of what will be available?

Despite using a proprietary battery shell which limits the type of battery that can be used Yuneec either accidentally or deliberately did us all a favor, they didn't tie the battery and shell to a "smart" battery design. That means that any battery of the correct cell count with an adequate C rating, milliamp capacity, and reasonable weight that can fit in the battery compartment can be effectively used as the power source. But they won't have a "Yuneec" shell you say. This is where we come to the simple modifications part.

Every Yuneec proprietary shell battery comes with the parts we need to make adaptive changes so there's no problem finding parts. Something that may be an issue to some people is accepting that modifications to enable use of different batteries will alter the external appearance of their aircraft. If this of significant concern those people should stop here, but they will end up hanging their H on the wall long before it's worn out and buying another aircraft.

Those that don't have issues with minor cosmetics and are good with small tools could separate the top and bottom shells of an H (or Chroma, Q-500, or Typhoon 4K) to make a hole large enough to pass power wires through in the bottom shell just below or to the side of the power plug on the main board. They could disassemble an old and worn out H battery and remove the power plug from the battery and PC boards. They would save the main power wires at the outside ends of the plug remove the balance tap wires from the center as they are not used in flight and will not be necessary for any reason moving forward.

Use the power plug and main power wires to create an Yuneec to XT-60 or other connector type (your preference) adapter. Make it long enough that when plugged into the main board and route out through the hole in the bottom shell to reach about 3/4 of the distance between the main board and the aft battery bay opening. Plug the adapter into the main board and leave it there forever. There will be no need to ever remove it again.

While the shells are separated, take a look at the small plastic "divider" that's built into the lower shell jut aft of the power plug location. That divider is just about the perfect distance from the board to help prevent a battery from being slammed into the main board and damaging the electrical contacts or solder joints. It's not quite tall enough to be perfect but the addition of a piece of foam that is slightly wider than the space between the divider and the power plug will assist prevention of motion. From this point all we need to do is peruse battery manufacturers that manufacture batteries of a size that will fit inside the battery well.

I've found quite a few of different capacities that easily fit fully within the well. Thus far the highest capacity found has been a 5500mA 4S pack but I have not even come close to exhausting my research. Perhaps the largest issue with those batteries that fit in the well is that they are usually shorter than a Yuneec battery and will need the addition of a piece of foam at the back of the battery to prevent aft movement. The batteries should be inserted in the battery well with the battery's main power leads facing the back of the aircraft. Those leads will be connected with the adapter plug you made and routed out the bottom of the aircraft.

Securing the battery is easy. Velcro or similar straps have functioned perfectly since the dawn of multirotors. All you need to de is decide how you want to attach the straps to the outside of the shell in a manner that assures they will not fall off of the shell. Run the straps tightly across the battery well and you're good to go.
 

Yeah, and like most forum search engines, you get pages of "info" that's totally unrelated to your query, or a lot of folks passing opinions back and forth with no solid, useful info. Although new to the TH and RTF birds in general, I'm not new to RC, I've scratch build more than a few drones, as well as several heli kits and a couple fixed wings. ALL the batteries I used for those had more info than just voltage and capacity, charge and discharge rates were also included, and are vital pieces of info, IMO. Sure, you can play the conservative game and assume a low discharge rate and a 1C charge rate, but why should you have to? Lots of complaints about flight and charge time with the batteries for these birds, looks like my first project is going to be some battery bay mods :rolleyes:. Later.

Dave
 
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Does anyone know the C rating of these batteries? I have a very capable charger, a Revolectrix Power Lab 6, and it allows complete control of pretty much all charging parameters, as well as lots of output power. My current limit on the latter is my power supply, it's 24 v. at 15 amps, the charger will handle up to 32 v. at 40 amps. I've been out of the RC world for a couple of years, but I seem to recall that most any LiPo could safely be charged at a 2C rate with no ill effects, and much faster charging. Has anyone done so, or should I plan on sticking to a 1C charge rate? Thanks.

Dave

Don't confuse the "C" rating of the pack with the acceptable or max C amperage it can be charged at. The discharge rating on these packs is around 8C. But I would not try charging them at that. For instance, I have some 80C lipos that are limited to 5C max charge rate.

As far as 2C charging goes, it won't actually cut the time in half. At best it will take about a third off. So it will save about 12 minutes (or less), but also increase the heat generated. Best advice is to charge at 1C, which is 4.8 amps for the H packs.
 
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Don't confuse the "C" rating of the pack with the acceptable or max C amperage it can be charged at. The discharge rating on these packs is around 8C. But I would not try charging them at that. For instance, I have some 80C lipos that are limited to 5C max charge rate.

As far as 2C charging goes, it won't actually cut the time in half. At best it will take about a third off. So it will save about 12 minutes (or less), but also increase the heat generated. Best advice is to charge at 1C, which is 4.8 amps for the H packs.

Thank you, I didn't realize the discharge rate was that low, all the batteries I've used in the past were at least 20C, and I've still got a few that are 40-60C. All of those had charge rates of 5C, so with a high power charger and parallel charging boards, I didn't have to plan a flying session too far in advance ;). BTW, a 1C charge rate for a 5400 mAh battery is 5.4 amps, not 4.8. And yes, I realize that 2C vs. 1C isn't going to cut the charging time in half, but when folks are saying 1.5-2 hrs to charge a battery, reducing that by a third is a good deal more than 12 minutes. Like I said, I think I'll be looking at doing what PatR was talking about a couple of posts up, making mods to allow using an off the shelf battery instead of being at the mercy of a proprietary. Later.

Dave
 
Thank you, I didn't realize the discharge rate was that low, all the batteries I've used in the past were at least 20C, and I've still got a few that are 40-60C. All of those had charge rates of 5C, so with a high power charger and parallel charging boards, I didn't have to plan a flying session too far in advance ;).

I've calculated an average amp draw of around 15 amps, which is about 3C for the H+ pack. And I agree, I was surprised by the discharge rate, but it really does not need to be much higher.

BTW, a 1C charge rate for a 5400 mAh battery is 5.4 amps, not 4.8.

This is in the H forum and I assumed we were talking about the 4,800 mAh H pack. The H+ is 5,250 mAh.
My packs take an average of 48 minute to recharge from around 28% remaining charge.
 
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I thought i read in earlier threads the plus battery can be used on the 480? If so there would be a means of extending the life of the Hexacopter at a more expensive price though. Or this
 
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Those that don't have issues with minor cosmetics and are good with small tools could separate the top and bottom shells of an H (or Chroma, Q-500, or Typhoon 4K) to make a hole large enough to pass power wires through in the bottom shell just below or to the side of the power plug on the main board. They could disassemble an old and worn out H battery and remove the power plug from the battery and PC boards. They would save the main power wires at the outside ends of the plug remove the balance tap wires from the center as they are not used in flight and will not be necessary for any reason moving forward.

Use the power plug and main power wires to create an Yuneec to XT-60 or other connector type (your preference) adapter. Make it long enough that when plugged into the main board and route out through the hole in the bottom shell to reach about 3/4 of the distance between the main board and the aft battery bay opening. Plug the adapter into the main board and leave it there forever. There will be no need to ever remove it again.

While the shells are separated, take a look at the small plastic "divider" that's built into the lower shell jut aft of the power plug location. That divider is just about the perfect distance from the board to help prevent a battery from being slammed into the main board and damaging the electrical contacts or solder joints. It's not quite tall enough to be perfect but the addition of a piece of foam that is slightly wider than the space between the divider and the power plug will assist prevention of motion. From this point all we need to do is peruse battery manufacturers that manufacture batteries of a size that will fit inside the battery well.

I've found quite a few of different capacities that easily fit fully within the well. Thus far the highest capacity found has been a 5500mA 4S pack but I have not even come close to exhausting my research. Perhaps the largest issue with those batteries that fit in the well is that they are usually shorter than a Yuneec battery and will need the addition of a piece of foam at the back of the battery to prevent aft movement. The batteries should be inserted in the battery well with the battery's main power leads facing the back of the aircraft. Those leads will be connected with the adapter plug you made and routed out the bottom of the aircraft.

Securing the battery is easy. Velcro or similar straps have functioned perfectly since the dawn of multirotors. All you need to de is decide how you want to attach the straps to the outside of the shell in a manner that assures they will not fall off of the shell. Run the straps tightly across the battery well and you're good to go.[/QUOTE]

Is it possible for you to make a video of this?
How about using a ring ping to hold the battery in?
 
I’ll think about making a video but activity in that regard will have to wait until I get my 107 currency study and test completed and obtain a battery.

I’m not familiar with the ring you mentioned.
 

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