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Blade Chroma transmitter calibration

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Hi evryone,
I recently calibrated my Blade Chroma ST10+ transmitter using the following Youtube link
as i was experiencing yaw issues (very slow response)
I flew one flight thereafter with no issues.However when i turned the transmitter on the next day,the screen constantly jumps around without any input from me.
Its now changed the mode select and i cannot get the transmitter to stay on one screen anymore.Any ideas on how to resolve this annoying issue?
 

WTFDproject

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I will likely be away from the computer most of today, but here are some thoughts and questions that may help lead to an answer;
1.) Your post did not mention the original reason for attempting a calibration. That is important because this is likely to now be a combination of more than one problem.
2.) When you check performance on the hardware monitor, do you get good, steady readings? Need to know the answer for both now, and before you did the calibration.

Speculation:
1.) Some of your controller contacts may have contamination or corrosion, and some of the various connectors and ribbons inside the controller may have the same issue. The "easy" fix for this is to remove the back panel of the controller, unplug everything and plug them all back in. Then see if it makes any difference on the hardware monitor.
2.) Exercise all the "pots' (control sticks and sliders) Again, check for any change on the hardware monitor. There are some other threads on the forum that discuss how to clean up the 'pots' if further action is needed.
3.) You will need to rerun the FC board calibration. If the calibration was run with damaged or contaminated components, the calibration values will be wrong.
4.) I recommend using the instructions in the following thread, It covers a couple points not mentioned in the video above.
5.) I would not recommend "factory reset" or "firmware upgrades" at this point. At least until you have identified the specific issues.
6.) And, of course, the possibility exists that one or more of controller boards have simply failed. Those will require replacement of the board(s), or a new controller.
 
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PatR

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I also had a slow ST-10+ yaw response after letting it sit for a year. Cleaning the pots with a couple drops of alcohol corrected it.

Don’t know what to tell ya about the new problems.
 
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The original reason for all this was included in my original post.The yaw inputs were verrrrry slow and non responsive making the drone difficult to fly.
The hardware monitor indicates low values (around 50-60) for the yaw inputs.All other inputs are close to but not quite 100.
There is no difference before and after with regards to STEADY readings thereof.
Personally the controller worked fine (sans the yaw inputs) before i attempted to re-calibrate it.
Now its worse than ever after yesterdays flight.
Cannot get a steady screen at all anymore-jumps from one screen to the next.
Mode select screen-cannot set it to mode 2 anymore either.All inputs entered do not incur any action whatsoever.
Is there a possibility the potentiometer is faulty? If so then i would most likely need to replace the controller.
 

WTFDproject

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[QUOTE="Its now changed the mode select and i cannot get the transmitter to stay on one screen anymore.Any ideas on how to resolve this annoying issue?[/QUOTE]
Speculation 2:
This problem sounds like a problem with the "touchscreen" aspect of the android. This may not be related to the original problems. The first level of "fix" for this is one of the ribbons mentioned in the earlier post. It will be on the upper left of the largest board. It will be one of the ones covered by black tape, and it includes a small circuit board that must be carefully pried off the main board.
 

WTFDproject

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Quick check. Rerun the FC cal using the written instructions. I will stand by for a few minutes to here your results. I will have to leave soon, but this is more interesting than the chores I'm supposed to be doing.
 
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I also had a slow ST-10+ yaw response after letting it sit for a year. Cleaning the pots with a couple drops of alcohol corrected it.

Don’t know what to tell ya about the new problems.
Hi PatR,
What exactly is the procedure for cleaning the pots?I assume i open up the back of the controller to expose the pots?
 
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Quick check. Rerun the FC cal using the written instructions. I will stand by for a few minutes to here your results. I will have to leave soon, but this is more interesting than the chores I'm supposed to be doing.
Unfortunately nothing is working and with the screen been so jumpy and un-cooperative, i'm going to have to take it into my local RC hobby shop for repairs if at all possible.
I would seriously suggest people exercise caution when considering this calibration procedure,as my attempted calibration has clearly effected something of a negative nature to the controller.Thanks for your input on the matter.
 

WTFDproject

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I would seriously suggest people exercise caution when considering this calibration procedure, as my attempted calibration has clearly effected something of a negative nature to the controller.
Negative feedback is good, and has great value. Please clarify whether you meant the youTube calibration procedure or the written procedure on the Forum. Were you able to use the written procedure at all?
 
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Negative feedback is good, and has great value. Please clarify whether you meant the youTube calibration procedure or the written procedure on the Forum. Were you able to use the written procedure at all?
To be honest there is very little difference between the two indicated procedures.The written procedure instructs the user to fill in the transmitter and radio versions over and above the Youtube video.To be fair though, the written procedure does at least warn the user upfront.
 

PatR

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Hi PatR,
What exactly is the procedure for cleaning the pots?I assume i open up the back of the controller to expose the pots?
Opening the case is often not necessary. Extreme dirt or corrosion may require that but minor issues probably won’t. The process I use for external application is to wet a Q-Tip with rubbing alcohol, deflect the stick to the 4 cardinal directions and drip a couple drops of alcohol into those corners. Then stir the sticks vigorously until you think the alcohol has evaporated. You can use plastic safe electrical contact cleaner to do the same thing if you have it on hand.

As your situation has progressed well beyond a very common and well documented dirty potentiometer issue I have no hope cleaning the pots will have any impact on your screen issue.

With no intent to be harsh I think you jumped the gun with the calibration and did something that took an easy to fix condition and turned it into something worse. You now have two issues instead of one. As you appear to have been unaware of the Yuneec transmitter’s propensity to foul potentiometers and electrical contact points it’s easy to understand why you chose the path you did.

Once you get the screen worked out you’ll still need to clean the pots. You will have slow control response and false centering issues until you do.
 

WTFDproject

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To be honest there is very little difference between the two indicated procedures.The written procedure instructs the user to fill in the transmitter and radio versions over and above the Youtube video.To be fair though, the written procedure does at least warn the user upfront.
The written version also has a step to ensure ALL control devices are CENTERED before you press the "next" button. That's a biggie, and it's not in the video. The calibration program will take the current position as input for center. If anything (think Sliders) is not actually in the center, things will be off.

That said, the calibration procedure is not your primary issue. It sounds like you have a general problem with corrosion. The jumping around of the screen, for instance, is not related to either "yaw' control or FC calibration. That implies you already have, or soon will have, more problems than you have noticed. The first step is to clean all the contacts. I believe you are going to have to open the case, and deal with the plug-in and, especially, the ribbon connectors. That may be beyond what you want to try if you are not familiar with the "zero force' type connectors used on the ribbons.
IF you do clean all contacts, check your hardware monitor (assuming the screen calms down). That first calibration very likely mis-calibrated some things. IF things don't look right in the hardware monitor, and you are sure all contacts, pots are clean, then rerun the FC board calibration.
 
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Opening the case is often not necessary. Extreme dirt or corrosion may require that but minor issues probably won’t. The process I use for external application is to wet a Q-Tip with rubbing alcohol, deflect the stick to the 4 cardinal directions and drip a couple drops of alcohol into those corners. Then stir the sticks vigorously until you think the alcohol has evaporated. You can use plastic safe electrical contact cleaner to do the same thing if you have it on hand.

As your situation has progressed well beyond a very common and well documented dirty potentiometer issue I have no hope cleaning the pots will have any impact on your screen issue.

With no intent to be harsh I think you jumped the gun with the calibration and did something that took an easy to fix condition and turned it into something worse. You now have two issues instead of one. As you appear to have been unaware of the Yuneec transmitter’s propensity to foul potentiometers and electrical contact points it’s easy to understand why you chose the path you did.

Once you get the screen worked out you’ll still need to clean the pots. You will have slow control response and false centering issues until you do.
UPDATE-My trip to the local RC hobby shop revealed a loose screw inside the transmitter which was wrecking havoc.A quick tighten of said screw and a successful calibration was all that was needed to restore her to the skies.My Chroma now flies better than ever before.Checked the hardware monitor levels and the yaw input is right up there.Problem solved!
 

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