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Can I use E90 ND and CPL filters on C23 camera?

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Basic newbie question...

I recently purchased the H+ RS with the C23 camera. My understanding is that the C23 is a brother to the E90/H520 camera. I want to purchase the appropriate ND/CPL/UV filters for the H+. Is my assumption correct that filters that are advertised to work for the E90 camera should also work for the C23?

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Yes, they are both 39mm filter size... :)
 
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Ty Pilot

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Over a year ago I made a lens shade for the CG03+ out of several materials including a very thin carbon and very thin plastic. Weight was an issue at first until I got it light enough that the gimbal could handle it. We're talking near feather weight, however, in use; the size of shade became the issue as the drag from downward thrust of propellers as well as drag from directional movement would cause the gimbal to shake and or fail all together. I found that I could maneuver at very slow speeds without problem - maybe up to 10 MPH on a calm day but because it was a delicate matter I did not continue to use it.

I just got the Plus and have not done any tests for this as yet but I will certainly do so in the future.

Hood5.jpg

Hood7.jpg
 

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When I think about a shade for the CGO3+ the stumbling block seems to be attaching it. I bought one on eBay early on but it only worked with the filter supplied by Yuneec. It was very light but used the tabs in a way that limited itself to that filter.

I’ve grown to appreciate using my Polar Pro ND filters so I’m not willing to give them up.

I’m tired of lens flare though. I may end up resorting to a Rube Goldberg solution that may look like crap. That would be a shame when I see your elegant design.
 
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Over a year ago I made a lens shade for the CG03+ out of several materials including a very thin carbon and very thin plastic. Weight was an issue at first until I got it light enough that the gimbal could handle it. We're talking near feather weight, however, in use; the size of shade became the issue as the drag from downward thrust of propellers as well as drag from directional movement would cause the gimbal to shake and or fail all together. I found that I could maneuver at very slow speeds without problem - maybe up to 10 MPH on a calm day but because it was a delicate matter I did not continue to use it.

I just got the Plus and have not done any tests for this as yet but I will certainly do so in the future.

View attachment 10207

View attachment 10208

Somehow, I knew @Ty Pilot would respond to Ron's request with either a solution or a reason why more development was needed :) .

Question: would a 3D printed shade with structural members and weight reducing 'holes' have any merit? I'm not familiar with the materials available for 3D printing (they may all be too heavy) so this is just a 'blue sky' query. I suspect that the drag issues will be the hardest to overcome, independent of construction approach...
 

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I’ll provide a photo of the 3D printed shade I bought tomorrow. It was thin and quite light but the downside was the attachment. I flew with it a couple times and didn’t notice any issues in flight.
 
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Ty Pilot

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When I think about a shade for the CGO3+ the stumbling block seems to be attaching it. I bought one on eBay early on but it only worked with the filter supplied by Yuneec. It was very light but used the tabs in a way that limited itself to that filter.

I’ve grown to appreciate using my Polar Pro ND filters so I’m not willing to give them up.

I’m tired of lens flare though. I may end up resorting to a Rube Goldberg solution that may look like crap. That would be a shame when I see your elegant design.


The shade attachment was easy and I still have the mount attached to the camera and you can see it in some of my videos. No screws or anything just double sided VHB tape held the mount in place and the shade slipped on. Like you I have since learned the angles I can get away with and plan accordingly and use the proper filters as necessary
 

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Somehow, I knew @Ty Pilot would respond to Ron's request with either a solution or a reason why more development was needed :) .

Question: would a 3D printed shade with structural members and weight reducing 'holes' have any merit? I'm not familiar with the materials available for 3D printing (they may all be too heavy) so this is just a 'blue sky' query. I suspect that the drag issues will be the hardest to overcome, independent of construction approach...

3d printing is (at least at the consumer level) a prototype level creation. The parts I created from both vacuum forming and negative tooling yield the lightest possible parts for the design. My estimation is (at least for the CG03+) that the aerodynamic forces created from parasitic drag will overcome any shade at some point. That is; unless the shade is reduced in size to a point at which its usefulness as a sunshade becomes itself - inadequate.

The hope for the C23 is that it's capabilities in terms of holding strength are greater than that of the CG03+ and judging from the weight of the camera alone - it will be. Keep in mind that static weight of the shade can always be counterbalanced - it is the forces of wind from movement that will have the greater effect. The C23's lens size as well as field of view angle will dictate a larger sunshade than that of the CG03+.
 
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@Ty Pilot Thank you for the information. As a newbie, I'm getting way ahead of my abilities, although these are fun topics to consider. After I learn how to fly the H+ in a professional manner, I'll check in on whether you have had time, energy, interest in a shade for the C23. Thanks!
 

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rdonson

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As promised last night here are some photos of the sunshade for the CGO3+ that I mentioned. It is not 3D (additive) printed. Its thin and light and likely heat or vacuum formed but I'm not well versed in those techniques. The sunshade uses the second set of clips on the original Yuneec filter supplied with the TH to hold it on. Not necessarily the most secure method.

Since the CGO3+ has a 98 degree FOV a huge shield is likely not required.

If you're wondering about the 3D (additive) printed pieces on the legs they are for STROBON CREE LED lights. I'm still experimenting with them.

View media item 827View media item 826View media item 825View media item 824
 
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As promised last night here are some photos of the sunshade for the CGO3+ that I mentioned. It is not 3D (additive) printed. Its thin and light and likely heat or vacuum formed but I'm not well versed in those techniques. The sunshade uses the second set of clips on the original Yuneec filter supplied with the TH to hold it on. Not necessarily the most secure method.

Since the CGO3+ has a 98 degree FOV a huge shield is likely not required.

If you're wondering about the 3D (additive) printed pieces on the legs they are for STROBON CREE LED lights. I'm still experimenting with them.

View media item 827View media item 826View media item 825View media item 824

Thanks @rdonson . Interesting shade. Looks like the shade for the C23 would need to be significantly larger.

I haven't personally experimented with 3D printing yet, next technology on the hobby list :).
 
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@Peggy please provide clarification...

Dumb Newbie Question: What is the purpose of the Circular metal ring provided with the H+ ?

The thread above describes that stepdown ring... so is the stepdown ring's diameter 40.5mm while the filter threads on the C23 lens itself are 39mm... which would make it technically a stepup ring? Why use an adapter at all?

With these small gimbals the ideal filter will be as light as possible to keep the extra weight and moment arm to the motors as close to the original weight and C/G as possible. Retaining the step up ring while adding a filter moves the moment arm further out from the center of gravity than it needs to be, which requires the gimbal to work harder to stabilize it. Depending on the weight of the filter it’s possible to exceed the limitations of the actuators or cause them to fail prematurely, even if the gimbal was re-balanced. Best practice would be to remove the “step up” ring when adding a filter.

I question how far away a filter can be from the lens glass before possible focus issues might occur. At what we are paying for the filter sets they can’t possibly be the greatest glass available.
 
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rdonson

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FWIW the lens shade for the CGO3+ that I shared doesn't weigh enough to even show up on any scale I own (i.e. less than 1 gram).
 

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