Thank you very much for the quick observation.If you change to a different motor all four must be changed to that type.
The issue with changing to a different motor is that you have no access to PID parameters to balance the acceleration/deceleration and current draw between the ESC’s and motors.
Welcome to the Forum @Helio . It is good to see you here, my friend. I think @DoomMeister and others may be able to discuss this issue with greater knowledge.Greetings from Ecuador friends.
Thanks for the tip, my friend.You cannot access the PID (Proportional Integral Differential controls) for the Blade Chroma. The values are set in the firmware for the ESC/motor/propeller combination used on the aircraft.
Those that build their own quads use a generic controller and have software to fine tune the values when they make changes. Very few “ready to fly” drones allow access to those functions as even small changes can have a major effect on handling, flight characteristics, and battery life.
That's what I assumed. Does that imply ESC failure?The propeller coming loose after motor start suggests that the motor was turning the wrong direction after the crash. The motor spinning should cause the propeller to tighten up on the shaft.
If smoke comes from the motor, the motor is burnt and unusable.
The first crash may have been caused either by the esc failure or by a problem at the motor, not easy to be sure which of them.
In any case, smoke means a short circuit in the coils, so motor is the first suspect.
Loosing of propeller can be caused too by lack of the small o-ring that is on the motor shaft, if motor stops immediately and o-ring was missing, loose of propeller is highly probable.
My suggestion is to replace the motor, checking connections between it and esc, and connect copter to GUI for esc's check and motor spinning.
I have already done it, I have already removed the insurance. Still the part does not come out. I don't know what the additional difficulty is. In some video I saw that they applied heat to it. Is it advisable?Hi Helio.
ESCs are located on the main board on the IMU side, you can see them on opposite side of motor connectors.
Unfortunately there is no any diagram for users, and in case one ESC is damaged you must replace the whole main board.
The free connector is for one of the two receivers the Chroma can manage: ST10+ receiver or Spektrum receiver.
The motor rotor can be separate from stator plate removing the small Seger ring that is on the shaft in the center of the base (see attached picture).
Be careful don't lose the spacers that are on the shaft (if present), these small washers are needed to calibrate the gap between rotor and stator.
View attachment 26934
Rara vez sugiero cosas que no he probado, pero no tendré tiempo de probar esto hasta la noche o mañana.I would like to know if the fault would also be in the ESC so as not to import motor 3 unnecessarily.
No he desmontado un motor Chroma. El anexo 49 (Desmontaje del motor Q500) de Way To Fix Drones project puede ser útil.I have already done it, I have already removed the insurance. Still the part does not come out. I don't know what the additional difficulty is. In some video I saw that they applied heat to it. Is it advisable?
Well, what I am trying to do is to rewind the stator, as I saw in a video.
I will also have to remove the main board to try to find the famous ESC and visually check its condition. If I can establish that it's burnt, or something like that, I'm afraid my Chroma Blade will be left for the museum hehe.
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Rara vez sugiero cosas que no he probado, pero no tendré tiempo de probar esto hasta la noche o mañana.
La idea es mover el motor # 1 a la posición del motor # 3, y luego utilizar la GUI para asegurar que el motor se inicia normalmente y se ejecuta en la dirección correcta cuando es impulsado por el ESC # 3.
Ni siquiera estoy seguro de que la GUI del Chroma haga funcionar los otros motores con uno de ellos desconectado. Puede que ya lo sepas. Si no es así, puedes averiguarlo desconectando el #3 para asegurarte de que el GUI probará el funcionamiento de los otros.
Parece que siempre hay un riesgo. En este caso, estás apostando por dañar otro motor. Si el ESC #3 fue el responsable de dañar el motor #3, también dañará el motor #1.
Intentaré probar el método esta noche, pero será una simple prueba para ver si los motores funcionan con uno que falta. La única placa Chroma Main que tengo disponible no tiene ningún ESC malo.
Creo que la GUI sólo hará funcionar los motores durante unos segundos de prueba. No te alarmes si el motor arranca normalmente, y luego se apaga después de unos segundos cuando en la GUI. Eso puede ser normal.
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I seldom suggest things I have not tried, but I will not have time to try this until late tonight or tomorrow.
The idea is to move motor #1 to the Motor #3 position, and then use the GUI to ensure the motor starts normally and runs in the correct direction when driven by the #3 ESC.
I am not even certain the Chroma GUI will run the other motors with one motor disconnected. You may already know. If not, you can find out by disconnecting the #3 to ensure the GUI will test run the others.
There seems always to be a risk. In this case, you are gambling on damaging another motor. If the #3 ESC was responsible for the damage to #3 motor, it will also damage the #1 motor.
I will try to test the method tonight, but it will be a simple test to see if the motors will run with one missing. The only Chroma Main board I have available does not have any bad ESCs.
I think the GUI will only run the motors for a few seconds of test. Don't be alarmed if the motor starts normally, then shuts down after a few seconds when on the GUI. That may be normal.
I have already removed the shaft locks. It does not come out.No he desmontado un motor Chroma. El anexo 49 (Desmontaje del motor Q500) de Way To Fix Drones project puede ser útil.
De nuevo, no he desmontado un motor Chroma. Pero los motores similares de otros modelos tienen dos cosas que suelen impedir que el eje salga.
1.) Hay espaciadores y arandelas debajo del circlip. Son difíciles de ver, y quedan atrapados en la ranura del circlip si no se retiran antes de sacar el eje.
2.) Los motores utilizan imanes excepcionalmente fuertes. Son tan fuertes que puede parecer que todavía están sujetos por algo sólido. Pero si se eliminan todas las demás interferencias, el eje saldrá si se tira de él con suficiente fuerza. No es buena idea utilizar herramientas por miedo a que se dañe.
I have not disassembled a Chroma motor. Attachment 49 (Disassembly of the Q500 motor) from Way To Fix Drones project may be helpful.
Again, I have not disassembled a Chroma motor. But similar motors of other models have two things that usually prevent the shaft from coming out.
1.) There are spacers and washers under the circlip. They are hard to see, and get caught in the circlip groove if not removed before pulling the shaft out.
2.) The motors use exceptionally strong magnets. They are so strong that they may appear to still be held by something solid. But if all other interference is removed, the shaft will come out if pulled hard enough. It is not a good idea to use tools for fear of damage.
Es posible, pero no es seguro.Is there a possibility that when the motor overheated something melted inside and prevented the stator and bell from separating?
He decidido tomarme el tiempo para probarlo. Puede que tengas que venir a protegerme de la ira de mi mujer, que no está muy contenta conmigo ahora.Hello my friend.
Good idea to do that with the GUI taking advantage that I have disassembled motor 3. I will do it tonight.
And then I will try to do it by changing motor 1 to position 3.
I will report the results.
Regards.