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E50 / E90

You can get a Dragon for $29,500.00 less;). Leaves a little room for that first lens.

On another note, it's rather amusing reading people complain about a $4k price tag on an entry level pro drone when just the camera and gimbal on a cinema level drone approaches $100k. Even lower level drones carrying DSLR's use lenses that can cost more than an E-90.
 
Thank for that Screen shot, very beautifull.
Have you another with more details to see the resolution of the E90 ?
 
Many thanks for the photo Graham.
To me the E90 seems to be a good camera. No?
Yes, but there a few issues. Distortion in dngs and video which are most obvious when the horizon is near the top of the frame. Sunny/cloudy temperature settings don't seem right. Exposure times are too wide, e.g. 1/1000 to 1/2000 so that accuate exposure isn't easy. But, yes I think its very good in other respects.
 
hi,
I upload a photo done with my P4Pro camera ( 20Mp 1inch and fov 84°). no distorsions and you can compare the quality with E90.
I am living in south of France.
Distorsions are coming with a fov >90° as with E90. But that camera E90, on my opinion is enough good for me.
May be an upgrade will be coming soon to get steps between 1/1000 to 1/2000.
As said nobody perfect.
 

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Sunny/cloudy temperature settings don't seem right. Exposure times are too wide, e.g. 1/1000 to 1/2000 so that accuate exposure isn't easy.

Are you having issues with the white balance in both video and photo mode? I find that photo mode works best if I just shoot auto, but I lock it for video (on the CGO3+ that is)

As for the exposure, is it taking a full stop through all settings? Or just some of them? I'd expect hopefully 1/3 stop, maybe 1/2 stop for all exposure speeds.
 
Are you having issues with the white balance in both video and photo mode? I find that photo mode works best if I just shoot auto, but I lock it for video (on the CGO3+ that is)

As for the exposure, is it taking a full stop through all settings? Or just some of them? I'd expect hopefully 1/3 stop, maybe 1/2 stop for all exposure speeds.
Yes, but wb seems worst in photo mode. I'll try auto wb, I'm not used to using it. Thanks. Might end up using a white card.
With the exception of shutter times of 4, 3, 2, 1s, all the others are at 1 stop intervals viz. 1/30, 1/60, 1/125 etc. to 1/8000. I agree 1/3 stop would be much better.
 
First image same view as my last post, but this time converted from DNG, second image also converted from DNG
View attachment 7480 View attachment 7481
Nice shots!
I downloaded both images so that I could look at them more closely. I like to zoom in far enough to begin to see individual pixels. The Cattedown image has a lot more chroma noise at that zoom level than the Sheepstor image. Did one receive more post processing than the other? Cyberlink PhotoDirector can fix the chroma noise without ruining the sharpness.
 
Nice shots!
I downloaded both images so that I could look at them more closely. I like to zoom in far enough to begin to see individual pixels. The Cattedown image has a lot more chroma noise at that zoom level than the Sheepstor image. Did one receive more post processing than the other? Cyberlink PhotoDirector can fix the chroma noise without ruining the sharpness.
The cattedown image was shot not long after sunrise, so it was darker and did get more post processing. I will have a look at PhotoDirector, thanks.
 
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Yes, but wb seems worst in photo mode.

Yea, that's my experience with the CGO3+. I find for photo, auto works good enough 90% of the time as if I'm switching to photo mode and not taking stills from a video, then odds are good the .jpg is only gonna be used to pick a RAW file to edit. For video mode, I find pointing it so you've got the sky and a horizon (preferably with trees and grass or whatever else natural) when you lock it will generally get the video colors fairly true, the rest can be corrected in post-processing.
 
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Yea, that's my experience with the CGO3+. I find for photo, auto works good enough 90% of the time as if I'm switching to photo mode and not taking stills from a video, then odds are good the .jpg is only gonna be used to pick a RAW file to edit. For video mode, I find pointing it so you've got the sky and a horizon (preferably with trees and grass or whatever else natural) when you lock it will generally get the video colors fairly true, the rest can be corrected in post-processing.
Thanks, I'll try this next time out. Forecast is poor for the next couple of days, so it'll have to wait a while.
 

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