Excellent idea. Thanks.I'd probably statically balance it using some lead tape. Golf club balance tape works well.
With a set of ND2, ND4, ND8, ND16, normally one filter is fine or should use two and more?
I think more than 2 would break the balance of gimbal.
Ur so bossyWhen being used on a gimbal setup, I would highly recommend that only 1 filter at a time be used... thus the need for a variety of densities, to handle a range of changing light conditions.
does it say the most filled filters in the market could be used without balanced issue?Meant to give an update on those filters and the balancing of the C23 camera. I went to a local golf store and bought lead tape. I put one of the filters on and balanced it with the lead. Got it so it was perfectly balanced. I tried to research calibrating the C23 gimbal, but apparently that doesn't exist. I took it for a flight, and the picture was terribly shaky. Kind of like when you leave the gimbal lock on. I brought it down and let it sit on my car hood. The gimbal was clearly shaking and sounded like it was struggling. I removed some of the lead tape to make it slightly front heavy. Same thing. Then, I took it completely off and it works great. I have flown it for about an hour total with no issues with each of the 6 different filters.
The combination of the filter and lead tape exceeded the gimbals’s PID settings, or power levels. Evidently they are enough to deal with the weight of the filter alone, but no more.
That’s not surprising for a gimbal designed to carry only a single camera and lens combination.
I am finding the opposite when experimenting with 40.5mm filters and counterweights. I'm in the midst of trying to sort out the Buzz that sometimes still occurs with the Plus, even with the latest firmware. It's too early to say with any certainly, but I suspect there is not enough weight on the camera for the PID settings.The combination of the filter and lead tape exceeded the gimbals’s PID settings, or power levels. Evidently they are enough to deal with the weight of the filter alone, but no more.
I have reason to suspect that performing an accelerometer calibration also calibrates the gimbal.
ake a look at this video. The gyro calibration is for the gimbal gyro
To be clear, in all the steps I mentioned in post #189, I never performed a "Gyro" cal at any time, only the accelerometer. That is what fixed the buzz or chatter, not a Gyro Cal. This is why I believe that the accelerometer cal is what calibrates the gimbal, because that alone fixed the buzz. I cannot speak to Gyro cal and what specifically has to do with the Gimbal. I have always been under the assumption that the aircraft has gyros that need calibrating. Don't all aircraft use gyros?if I put a filter, weights, etc. on the camera I would run the "gyro" calibration.
I just created an off balance condition, and the Gyro cal did nothing for it. I'm inclined to think that Gyro cal is for the aircraft, not the gimbal. This is getting out of my area of knowledge and I have to admit I'm not sure what -if anything- is at play for calibrating the Gimbal. I'm still not convinced the accelerometer cal is helping, it could just be a coincidence. I have now had it fail to fix a buzz once. So far all of this is pure speculation. I have no evidence that suggests the Gyro cal is doing anything for the Gimbal, and only some evidence that the accelerometer cal does.Not sure about the H+. Both gyros and accelerometers are used for stabilization. I suspect the accelerometer is for the main aircraft and the gyro for the gimbal. But then again, it could be the other way around. I'm going to guess since the H has an accelerometer and gimbal that the gyro on the H+ is for the gimbal.
One thing I have not mentioned that is significant to the balance question, and brings me back to the subject of factory fixed PID settings, the light (sometimes intermittent) Gimbal buzz (as opposed to chatter) is coming from the Gimbal azimuth pivot, not the horizontal or vertical pivots. I had to look and listen very closley, and the slightest side rotational nudge will quiet the noise instantly, while rotating it down will not quiet as quickly, and I suspect that the only reason is because the azimuth is getting nudged while moving the camera in any other direction.Well, there you go. Didn't help. But, since it seems that it is fine without being perfectly balanced, then you can't argue with success. In the past a badly out of balance gimbal would cause all kinds of problems.
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