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Mods I have done to my H, Post yours.

Extended the ST16 HDMI port to a portable LCD TV screen

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WOW! now i wish i hadnt bought the Skyview Goggles, I could have had real skyview. Dxxx how big is that screen? lol Really like your mod. I assume all batteries are down below out of site.
Very nice indeed.

Cheers

Batfire
 
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Not sure if this counts as a mod, but after mistakenly ordering a CGO3 mount instead of the CGO3+ I had to made some tweaks to make it compatible.

Some of you may find it weird that I just didn't sent it back in exchange for the appropriate part but there's a good reason for that:

The reason: I mistakenly ordered the part online (which is very cheap) but there's no suppliers here in Mexico, so the shipping cost was more than double the cost of the part itself, also the shipping took waaay too long to consider sending it back and wait for the return and then add the extra shipping costs.

They're based on the same mold, but with a few key differences:

1) The most obvious is the single contact orifice, which not only implies the hole itself, but also a different structure on the back in order to fit the larger back cover that holds the contact board in place.

DSC_0033.jpg


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2) 3rd screw thread is obviusly in a different position because of the size of the back cover so the most difficult part was to move the small piece with the thread to its correct position, also carefully glued using black epoxy and let harden overnight

DSC_0043_1.jpg


3) The mount "legs" are shorter, and in turn the rubber dampers are longer to compensate (therefore softer and jigglier) and there are no security plastic pins. Using original CGO3+ dampers is not possible because they're shorter and the bottom of the gimbal motor makes contact with the mount.

DSC_0061_1.jpg


So I removed the extra lenght from each "leg" from the broken CGO3+ mount (which is clearly visible since the "extention" has a different shiny finish rather than matte, so no need to measure) to transplant them to the new CGO3 mount.

DSC_0072.jpg

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4) Before installing the "extentions" to the new mount, the bottom of the "legs" of the recipient had to be removed to be able to properly fit the original CGO3+ rubber dampers.

DSC_0077_1.jpg


5) Once all the "legs" where completely bottomless carefully install the "extentions" from old mount to the new one using some nice black epoxy glue.

DSC_0080.jpg


Once everything was in place, I let it cure for a whole day before attempting to reinstall, once everything is back in place the mount cover hides everything, and its completely invisible, the shorter railing also fits perfectly, it slides all the way back until its secured just like its supposed to be.

DSC_0067.jpg


So as you can see, it is not "modded" per se, but the CGO3 mount had to be custom fit for the CGO3+

I know most of you would've just ordered the right mout but I didn't want to spend on more shipping costs and wait for another week and a half for it to arrive. Also I don't mind doing this kind of work on a replacable part

Greetings!


Hi "JulesTEO

Are you saying you are using a CG03 Q500 camera on a Typhoon H as your camera now? IF so how were you able to get the ST16 which receives 720P to accept the video from CG03 camera without choppy reception when you fly? I also besides the typhoon h own a Q500 and bought an extra ST16 to bind to Q500. When I do it flies just fine but bound to the camera it has choppy video when I move the copter. In hover video fine but once you start moving video goes choppy due to 720P feed needed. This would be great if you could explain how you were able to over come this issue. A few of us bought ST16 spare xmitters just for this use.
Thanks in advance for any help

Cheers

Batfire
 
WOW! now i wish i hadnt bought the Skyview Goggles, I could have had real skyview. Dxxx how big is that screen? lol Really like your mod. I assume all batteries are down below out of site.
Very nice indeed.

Cheers

Batfire

The husky box with a 26" LCD TV powered by a 700W inverter using a 12v duracell deep cycle battery connected to the ST16 transmitter via the HDMI port for realtime view of the Yuneec Typhoon H CGO3 camera.

Here is a video that provides a little more details:


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Hi "JulesTEO

Are you saying you are using a CG03 Q500 camera on a Typhoon H as your camera now? IF so how were you able to get the ST16 which receives 720P to accept the video from CG03 camera without choppy reception when you fly? I also besides the typhoon h own a Q500 and bought an extra ST16 to bind to Q500. When I do it flies just fine but bound to the camera it has choppy video when I move the copter. In hover video fine but once you start moving video goes choppy due to 720P feed needed. This would be great if you could explain how you were able to over come this issue. A few of us bought ST16 spare xmitters just for this use.
Thanks in advance for any help

Cheers

Batfire

Hello Batfire,

No, I'm just using the CGO3 gimbal mount to hold the CGO3+ camera.
 
I modded my ST16 to an ST16+. Was going to do a step by step video but I found the below link which is what I just did. So I am not going to re invent the wheel. I have to get the correct 2.4 antenna for the other side, one that's on it is not correct. The Mod is pretty easy to do.


ST16Mod.jpg
ST16Mod1.jpg
 
Awesome, my next project. If that is the telemetry antenna, then it is receive only right? The length should not be that critical then if it is slightly off resonance. It's going to be 100% better then berried inside. I can't believe Yuneec placed this and the camera antenna where they did.
 
well where to start I did the Camera lens swap
IMG_7691.jpg

and have done the original first external H antenna mod :) also added a 2.4Ghz Booster with Ubec board
IMG_7688.jpg
IMG_7690.jpg

also did the First Internal Boosted ST-16 also did upgraded external antennas
IMG_7692.jpg

Internal Pictures of how the St-16 boosted looks inside ( i have updated and install a 2nd 1000Mah 3S lipo to power the 2.4Ghz wifi link board will post pictures later )
IMG_7696.jpg
 
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View attachment 2919 View attachment 2920

.View attachment 2922
Another mod - The camera gimbal is barely held on by a couple plastic rails. It is done on purpose so the energy of a bounce, scrape or light crash pops the camera off the craft to keep it from getting destroyed. Fine if you can see the H but if you strike a limb the camera will fall and you may or may not find it. Drill a very small hole in the empty gimbal hole. Loop very loosely a small piece of fishing line or dental floss through the holes. String must be loose and floppy, so do not tighten down to keep the gimbal working correctly. This will keep the camera and gimbal attached so you can bring it home and not search the woods and fields for it.

I'm sorry but I have doubts about this added safety; I don't mean to be rude, perhaps I'm getting it wrong :rolleyes: but, you said you did this in case the plastic rails of the gimbal were to break,

However I see no purpuse in the way you installed it since you drilled on the gimbal mount cover, which sits on top of the gimbal mount that then is held by Those breakable rails.. So in the event of a crash the rails will break, but the gimbal will be gone along with your extra safety tie.

rails.jpg


I also tried to figure out some way to link the gimbal to the H, I tried to use some thin zip ties to secure it to the clip where the contacts are, but I didn't come with anything that wouldn't affect the gimbal's function (or that wouldn't look horrible). In case you meant the 2 internal clips that secure the rubber dampers, I assure you, they are though and they will hold a very hard hit, the breakaway rails will be the first to go. :D

Greetings!
 
I'm sorry but I have doubts about this added safety; I don't mean to be rude, perhaps I'm getting it wrong :rolleyes: but, you said you did this in case the plastic rails of the gimbal were to break,

However I see no purpuse in the way you installed it since you drilled on the gimbal mount cover, which sits on top of the gimbal mount that then is held by Those breakable rails.. So in the event of a crash the rails will break, but the gimbal will be gone along with your extra safety tie.

rails.jpg


I also tried to figure out some way to link the gimbal to the H, I tried to use some thin zip ties to secure it to the clip where the contacts are, but I didn't come with anything that wouldn't affect the gimbal's function (or that wouldn't look horrible). In case you meant the 2 internal clips that secure the rubber dampers, I assure you, they are though and they will hold a very hard hit, the breakaway rails will be the first to go. :D

Greetings!
Good catch and I am only protecting it from snapping off on the weak gimbal plate to plate part, rubber grommet section. To make it 100% for rail protection to main body I probably need to do another hole and loop up to the main body. I would want it removable because you do slide the camera on and off at times. I will look at it and see what additions can be made that won't interfere with that. Let me know if you come up with something that will work. Thanks, two or more minds are better than one and this one is getting old!
 
I have flown my H out to 5km with this air side booster kit from FPVLR which I have installed inside the H
I am using a dipole on one side IMG_2169.PNG and Skew planar on the boosted side on the H
 
Decided to use some aluminum reflector insulation I had laying around to test and enhance the ST16 signal; to my surprise it reached over 5k feet where I typically get a range of 3k feet; here are some pictures :

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p


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Here is a video with a bit more details but in a nutshell is husky box with a 26" LCD TV powered by a 700W inverter using a duracell deep cycle battery connected to the ST16 via the HDMI port for realtime view of your CGO3 camera.




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how many hours do you get out of that battery?
 

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