They definitely not cold
They were in the house.
I took it outside fired it up and away I went. I will
be keeping my eye on things.
Thanks
More Troubles
- Thread starter KEITH KUHN
- Start date
They definitely not cold
They were in the house.
I took it outside fired it up and away I went. I will
be keeping my eye on things.
Thanks
Hi Jeff
I do not fly to warning levels either.
It Creeped up on me.
In a few days I will send out Telem Files
To see what U Pros think.
Keith
A battery with low internal resistance delivers high current on demand. High resistance causes the battery to heat up and the voltage to drop. Temperature also effects the resistance, heat lowers it and cold raises it. Warming the battery will momentarily lower the internal resistance to provide maybe a little extra runtime.
LiPo Characteristics Part 3: Internal Resistance • TheJumperWire
Internal resistance is a key property of LiPo cells. In this post we discuss what it is, how to measure it, and which variables affect its value.www.thejumperwire.com
Great Read
On the Lipo Batt.
Way over my head.
Electricity is another
language.
Thanks
PatR
Premium Pilot
Pollo,
It may interest some to learn I have a number of old transmitters, one over 40 years and many 8-20 years old, that have never, ever experienced gimbal pot issues. They all still work like new today.
I think we’ll find Keith’s flight time issues come down to understanding the battery technology involved. If a battery will no longer charge to “full” voltage and capacity it is degraded. The cause does not matter as nothing can be done to fix them.
From there it comes down to cell state, and understanding IR’s plays large in determining whether or not we should continue to use an aged or damaged battery.
After that we encounter cell balance and cell peak voltage. If one or more cells is more than 0.1v different from the others after charging we have a problem. The battery will behave differently than it had before, flight time will be shorter and unpredictable. A battery with one or more weak cells will probably show good initial pack voltage but discharge very quickly, sometimes in less than two minutes. If people don’t periodically monitor battery voltage in flight they can end up with a nasty surprise. We should always monitor voltage for the first couple minutes of flight to assess battery condition. A fast initial discharge is cause for concern and an early landing.
We should not call a product defective if we don’t understand how they work, how to care for them, and fail to invest the time and effort necessary to learn about them. We’ve had a battery education thread in this forum for several years for all to visit and learn from. Those having battery issues that have not visited and learned from that thread, and the sites linked within dedicated to battery technology, have a failure on their part, not the product’s.
It may interest some to learn I have a number of old transmitters, one over 40 years and many 8-20 years old, that have never, ever experienced gimbal pot issues. They all still work like new today.
I think we’ll find Keith’s flight time issues come down to understanding the battery technology involved. If a battery will no longer charge to “full” voltage and capacity it is degraded. The cause does not matter as nothing can be done to fix them.
From there it comes down to cell state, and understanding IR’s plays large in determining whether or not we should continue to use an aged or damaged battery.
After that we encounter cell balance and cell peak voltage. If one or more cells is more than 0.1v different from the others after charging we have a problem. The battery will behave differently than it had before, flight time will be shorter and unpredictable. A battery with one or more weak cells will probably show good initial pack voltage but discharge very quickly, sometimes in less than two minutes. If people don’t periodically monitor battery voltage in flight they can end up with a nasty surprise. We should always monitor voltage for the first couple minutes of flight to assess battery condition. A fast initial discharge is cause for concern and an early landing.
We should not call a product defective if we don’t understand how they work, how to care for them, and fail to invest the time and effort necessary to learn about them. We’ve had a battery education thread in this forum for several years for all to visit and learn from. Those having battery issues that have not visited and learned from that thread, and the sites linked within dedicated to battery technology, have a failure on their part, not the product’s.
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Thanks Pat
I am now looking into getting decent Balance Charger. Can you recommend one,that won't
cost an Arm & a Leg ?
I really love my TH
I hate to sell it so every
bit of info helps me.
Keith
PS
Telem Files coming soon.
All you guys R Great
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That amazes me too. I have an old Hitec Optic with plenty of modifications, and have had zero issues with potentiometers, ever. Only devices that I have seen to have issues with potentiometers, are some old 20 years old special-purpose PC joysticks, 40-70 years old vintage radios and 2 years old Yuneec transmitters (both my ST16 and ST24).
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The TH is a very good drone, still one of the best available. So...
- Let's verify from the telemetry files that everything with the drone is OK.
- Purchase two or three new batteries
- Keep them warm (20-30C) before flight
- Go flying and have fun! ;-)
Regarding the charger, I have this one: iSDT T6 Lite Charger (600W) EXCLUSIVE to HobbyKing!
I am powering it using a laptop power supply with an XT60 connector attached (or 750 W huge PSU when I am home)
And I am using this kind of cable with XT60 connector instead of banana plugs to connect batteries to the charger: Yuneec Typhoon H Drone Battery to Charger Adapter with Balance Leads by Venom 841850112112 | eBay
That iSDT is a quite versatile one. That shows you internal resistances of the battery cells, how much amps was put into the battery and plenty of other information. But those two are very good indicators for the battery health. The cell voltage itself tells nothing about the battery condition, only the charge state.
Out of stock im afraid.
Attachments
I use DY3. Sky Rc 100 and 200 ( more omph in 200) there like the A10 charger clone, much more expensive but they do it all.
PatR
Premium Pilot
Hitec makes a line of very good charging systems. Good enough that Yuneec rebranded the X2 to sell it as the A10. A good charger that will last a few years and provide most, if not all, the features we need will usually cost ~$100.00. As I don’t know how you define “an arm and a leg” I can’t determine if $100.00 falls into that category. I do understand how it could, though.
Hi Pat
I hate to sound cheap.
I am thinking $35 to $50
Now this eve I am going
to see if I can remember
Zip up the Telem Files.
Oh boy hear I go.
Good to see you are
still interested in this
stuff , I am getting old
Nearing 70 OMG LOL
Keith
In the long run it will save you an "Arm and a leg" potentially saving your copter from a crash, hopefully finding out of the batteries you have are knackered or possibly salvagable. It probably the best investment after the H purchase.
I will certainly do this.
Now I will attempt to
load up my Telem Files.
Hmmm
Now my memory - LOL
PatR
Premium Pilot
That’s the way it works. A better charger lasts 5 to 10 times longer than a cheap one and provides accurate information. You can buy a $35.00 charger over and over or a $100.00 charger just once. Your call.
Should you elect to spring for the X2 or A10, buy the Hitec brand. They have a looong history of taking care of their customers. I’ve been using their products since 1998. They work- and for those infrequent times they don’t Hitec handled the problem quickly and efficiently.
Should you elect to spring for the X2 or A10, buy the Hitec brand. They have a looong history of taking care of their customers. I’ve been using their products since 1998. They work- and for those infrequent times they don’t Hitec handled the problem quickly and efficiently.
I will have to till my next SS check
Customer
service service is a plus.
Thanks again.
Keith
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Keith,
After all, that new charger is not mandatory. For you, new batteries are, if you are getting only 5 minutes flight time with a fully charged one. A better charger gives you some extra information how your batteries are doing, but you can do perfectly fine with the stock charger, too. The Power4 batteries are good for ~15 minutes of flight. Pay close attention to the battery meter, while you are flying, it is the only relevant information on the screen. If battery voltage seems to drop rapidly during flight, and/or you are getting 5 minute flight times, it is an indication that your batteries are either getting worn-out or are damaged.
Why I am using the iSDT charger, is that I had already one, and I suspected that the Yuneec's original charger was making my batteries swell. I am not sure if it was the case though.
After all, that new charger is not mandatory. For you, new batteries are, if you are getting only 5 minutes flight time with a fully charged one. A better charger gives you some extra information how your batteries are doing, but you can do perfectly fine with the stock charger, too. The Power4 batteries are good for ~15 minutes of flight. Pay close attention to the battery meter, while you are flying, it is the only relevant information on the screen. If battery voltage seems to drop rapidly during flight, and/or you are getting 5 minute flight times, it is an indication that your batteries are either getting worn-out or are damaged.
Why I am using the iSDT charger, is that I had already one, and I suspected that the Yuneec's original charger was making my batteries swell. I am not sure if it was the case though.
I don't think the OP can't afford new batteries yet, if he buys more which are difficult to source, with the Yuneec charger he could ruin them too over a period of time, I believe everyone was suggesting a 3rd party charger, to help preserve the batteries, and give him a better chance of knowing what's going on. Obviously his flight log will reveal everyone's suspicion.
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Hello Pollo
I hear you loud and clear.
Before I buy anything
I will hopefully get my
Telem Files read.The Batt was not fully charged
I launched it at 6.1 V.
I will do many test flights
without the camera on it just in case
After that then I will
consider buying a charger.
Love all your info.
I hope to get the Telem Files out today.
Keith from Ohio
After l bought my h plus, l found out here the chargers were garbage, l presume by design ? I had only done like 4 charges prior, then l bought the dy5 charger brand new its basically the cost of a new battery ? Then l bought a used h so l went on ebay and bought a second hand dye charger for the h @ $39 and free shipping from a guy that ran a hobby shop. So that might be something to consider, forgot to say the dye was in brand new condition and works as should
