New typhoon out of the box, can't figure out beep error on gimbal "beeeep,beeeep,,,,,,,,,,beep beep beep"

[KEITH KUHN]

Unfortunately no warranty. It was bought off of ebay, the seller said it was new and it certainly did look new had all the tags and stickers etc does not look damaged at all. But I guess thats what I get. I have a guy at work who is pretty knowledgeable with soldering who could help me if I can give him some instructions.

Let me know if you want to repair, or use eBay to get a replacement. If you begin repairs, it will pretty much end any resolution from eBay.

you are exactly right about that

 

[mpv0603]

 

[mpv0603]

View attachment 16792

progress so far. Is there a good way to pull connectors without messing anything up?
Thanks!

 

[mpv0603]

Not sure how to tell if the "Pitch" and "Yaw" connectors are reversed, it looks like they no longer label the board like your image coder Y,R,P

 

[WTFDproject]

progress so far. Is there a good way to pull connectors without messing anything up?

I use fingernails as much as possible. Needle nosed tweezers for the ones I can't get to. I think one or two of the pictures in the document had the tweezers still sticking out of my hand while I was holding the camera for pictures.
Either way, use a slight rocking motion side to side as you draw the connector out. They won't fail if they aren't already damaged. And the camera used in the document came to me with almost all of them ripped off. Not all that hard to solder back on.

Not sure how to tell if the "Pitch" and "Yaw" connectors are reversed...…… /QUOTE]
First thing is to pull out the Yaw connector (Blue in your picture). Most cameras did not have enough wire on it to reach other connectors without dismounting the board and rerouting. If this one can only reach the Blue socket, then look under the board to see if you can follow the wire to the sensor. Its underneath the support, just behind the socket.
Otherwise, remount the roll motor, yoke assembly, and roll sensor. (No need to install covers) You can then unplug the sensors one at a time to see if each produces the proper code when powered back up. I would not recommend intentionally cross connecting them unless needed to resolve a question. I have done it, and not suffered consequences, but have not done it enough to state that no harm is possible.

..........., it looks like they no longer label the board like your image coder Y,R,P

I don't think Yuneec color coded them at all. At least not on a routine basis. The colors in the document are just what I added as an example. I've seen informal looking color coding on lots of Yuneec stuff. If you did not add the color in your last Picture, it's presence on the exact connectors in question would suggest a previous attempt to correct the issue.

One other oddity I recall. You would assume that the code sounds would match exactly what you unplug, or two would sound if two were unplugged. I recall that not being the case. In different combinations, you may get only one code when you expect two, etc. When all three are correctly connected and functioning, you get one correct code for each single item unplugged. That's about the only reliable reference I recall.

 

[KEITH KUHN]

As mentioned above, obtaining a refund or replacement via eBay process would be a more reliable solution, and any work done under the following guidance will make that impossible to obtain.

Consider these possible problems that can generate a Yaw encoder failure when deciding whether to repair or seek settlement via eBay:
1.) Gimbal board itself may be bad.
2.) Gimbal board itself may have been replaced, and never sent for calibration.
3.) Yaw Encoder itself may be bad.
4.) Yaw encoder itself may have been replaced, and never sent for calibration.
5.) Yaw encoder wire may be switched with either roll or pitch encoder wire (not likely, but remotely possible)
6.) Yaw encoder wire may be unplugged.
7.) Yaw encoder wire may be broken.
8.) Any mystery item not identified above.
9.) The document below was prepared by an old man that stayed up until 5:30 AM working on it, and it has been reviewed by NO ONE ELSE to verify accuracy.
Of these, only 5, 6 and 7 can be addressed by local repair. Loss of eBay settlement will be very expensive if the issue is one of the other items on the list.

However, I will be unavailable until late evening East Coast USA time, and I said I would get you some pictures. I've pretty much convinced myself that I wish I had not made this promise, but done is done. Here is the document. Feel lucky?

WOW GREAT PICTURES, GREAT INSTRUCTIONS.
PHEWWW NOT FOR ME. THAT IS SURGICAL WORK.
KEITH KUHN
PS I WOULD HAVE SENT IT BACK.

 

[KEITH KUHN]

You are the man. I will let you know what I find out. It was given to me as a replacement so I do not have purchase info but looks like we are going to try and fix it ourselves. If it was up to me seems that the ebay route is the smart way to go but not an option.

YEP EBAY ROUTE FOR ME, GOOD LUCK
KK

 

[WTFDproject]

WOW GREAT PICTURES, GREAT INSTRUCTIONS.

I'm hoping @mpv0603 will provide some feedback and recommended changes to make it better. If it serves well, or can be amended to work better, I will post it in the TH "How To" section. Don't want to bother him about it right now. His first priority has to be staying focused on the repair itself. We can maybe improve the document afterwards.

 

[WTFDproject]

Not sure how to tell if the "Pitch" and "Yaw" connectors are reversed, it looks like they no longer label the board like your image coder Y,R,P

Wow. It took me until just now to realize you weren't talking about color codes in post #24, you were talking about the actual board labels were missing. It's probable your camera and board are newer than mine, but yours is the first I know of without the labels. Not just the coder labels, almost all the labels are missing. Strange.
I have a newer camera coming next Tuesday. I think I'll look at it to see if I need to update some drawings I have out there.
Wish I had been listening better.