Twitchy movements at slow speeds
- Thread starter Steak frites
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Yeah this bunny hop is one of the first and only issues I have. Putting the slider all the way to turtle minimizes the effect but does not correct it. Not sure what effect expo will have because that essentially desensitizes the stick near center. Even very small slow movements of the stick to maintain low speed results in what appears to be PIO - pilot induced oscillations. Could be the FC is overcorrecting?
Well I'm confident they will get it sorted.
Well I'm confident they will get it sorted.
I have tried multiple things calibrations and such the only thing that fixed that osolation is turn the GPS off and the problem is gone. I wish they had stabilize mode option on switch instead of smart mode as most people will never use that mode.
Jack, can you please explain more. Are you saying you turn off GPS and leave it off or turn it off and back on? Thanks.
I hear you. Thanks.Most likely wont happen until late tonight or tomorrow. Wifey to do list keeps me busy most of the weekend but since this Sunday is Father's Day she has promised me that day off.
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I flew four complete batteries this morning testing out the "twitchy" issue in all flight modes. A few things surprised me, especially how much better the H flies with the landing gear DOWN. It's smoother, doesn't twitch as much in any mode and overall just feels better. I took videos testing the twitchiness in all modes in cluding legs up and legs down in each mode. I will post those shortly. Now I'm not so sure it's an expo or curve issue. I think we all need to call Yuneec Monday and tell them to get on an update to fix this. It's far from unflyable but it should be smoother in certain modes.
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The only thing I did not try was turning the GPS off. That actually makes sense. Will try in several long hours after batteries are charged.
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Here are the videos testing the "twitch". Apologies for the iPhone quality video. I did discover that the ST16 sun shades makes a perfect tool to prop your smart phone on for videoing.
This first video is the H being tested in the slowest modes of Safe and Turtle. Legs up and legs down. She's very smooth, very little twitch.
Video #2 is the H flown in advance/pilot mode at slow settings (turtle). Again not twitchy at all.
Finally video #3 flying in fast modes, advance/pilot at rabbit setting. This is when it gets too twitchy and responsive as you will see. I'm making smooth, slow, small stick movements but it looks like I'm going full stick. Again, it's perfectly flyable, well maybe not for a newbie, but it needs to be much smoother than this.
This first video is the H being tested in the slowest modes of Safe and Turtle. Legs up and legs down. She's very smooth, very little twitch.
Video #2 is the H flown in advance/pilot mode at slow settings (turtle). Again not twitchy at all.
Finally video #3 flying in fast modes, advance/pilot at rabbit setting. This is when it gets too twitchy and responsive as you will see. I'm making smooth, slow, small stick movements but it looks like I'm going full stick. Again, it's perfectly flyable, well maybe not for a newbie, but it needs to be much smoother than this.
Wow! your twitching is much more pronounced than mine and I thought mine was bad. Funny thing with me is it didn't show up until flight 7 and 8. I have no clue what is happening. I will call support on Monday and report it. Sort of hard to explain but your video 3 speaks a thousand words. Thanks.
Would you mind going into the channel settings and post pictures of what the rates/expo is for pitch/roll ? I flew mine for the first time getting it back from Yuneec and tested for "twitchy" movements, but it wasn't like yours; that just looks wild. I'm pretty sure there are minimum angular movements that cannot be adjusted because they are triggers, not a pwm range. It's 92 and windy right now so I'm going to wait for a few hours before trying a few things.
If you turn the GPS off and fly in manual mode all the twitching is gone.
In this mode you will not have smarts shot or rtl. That's why I would like a mode for flying manual and flip the mode sw to angle if you want GPS assist and smart shots or rtl.
In this mode you will not have smarts shot or rtl. That's why I would like a mode for flying manual and flip the mode sw to angle if you want GPS assist and smart shots or rtl.
this twitching IMO is a software issue (gps interaction issue) that will hopefully be fixed in the next update. Ah if only it was open source.
Its been raining here in Mass today so I havent had a chance to try any new settings but I did fly a little bit after my LHS and I finally got my bird flying correctly again (long story).
When going into the 'channel settings' page, on the left side of the first page, is a listing of all the channels in square "push buttons" as J1, J2, J3, B1 etc.... These are not where you choose to set the Expos or Rates though. Making an adjustment through one of these ADDS the channel to the Throttle.
The result of this will have you scratching your head as what just happened. This really screwed me up and took two hours to figure out.
Along the right side of the screen has the channels listed as they would be for a plane. The NAMES of the channels are 'Thr' (Throttle), 'Ail' (Aileron), 'Ele' (Elevator) etc... This is where you choose the channel you want to change. Pitch and Roll are the channels for forward/back and strafe left/right.
I like others have found that the "twitching" is worse when in Angle mode and Rabbit. In Turtle the bird flies as would be expected but reacts slowly. Until I have a chance to change and test settings I will be using the Rabbit speed to get somewhere and then slow down to somewhere between Turtle and 1/2 rate throw once I want to start video or take pictures.
When going into the 'channel settings' page, on the left side of the first page, is a listing of all the channels in square "push buttons" as J1, J2, J3, B1 etc.... These are not where you choose to set the Expos or Rates though. Making an adjustment through one of these ADDS the channel to the Throttle.
The result of this will have you scratching your head as what just happened. This really screwed me up and took two hours to figure out.
Along the right side of the screen has the channels listed as they would be for a plane. The NAMES of the channels are 'Thr' (Throttle), 'Ail' (Aileron), 'Ele' (Elevator) etc... This is where you choose the channel you want to change. Pitch and Roll are the channels for forward/back and strafe left/right.
I like others have found that the "twitching" is worse when in Angle mode and Rabbit. In Turtle the bird flies as would be expected but reacts slowly. Until I have a chance to change and test settings I will be using the Rabbit speed to get somewhere and then slow down to somewhere between Turtle and 1/2 rate throw once I want to start video or take pictures.
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I received my Typhoon H from B&H, ordered the back pack case and two extra batteries but they are on back order. As a matter of fact I cannot find anyone in the US that sells spare H batteries. Bad planning by Yuneec, everyone is getting their Typhoon H but can do only one flight and then have to charge, I don't get it. B&H sells the extra batteries for $85 whereas most others are selling them for about $120.
Anyway my first flight was flawless, performed as was reported by everyone else. A few notes though, the sun shade does not fit very securely, maybe they will fix that or I will do some kind of mod once I decide I will keep the hex.
It takes at least 1 to 1.5 minutes for the FPV image to appear on the controller after turning on the H, does everyone else have the same delay?
I am going to have tweak the gain setting, mine flies very twitchy, even at turtle setting. Or maybe that is just the nature of these small hexas.
I should note that my experience is solely with larger DIY builds, 800mm and 1100mm Hexacrafter airframes using WKM and A2. Filming with Sony Nex 7, Sony 6000 and Pannasonic GH4s on Zenmuse. Flying much larger craft is totally different with all that added mass. I got the H for jobs where there is more risk like flying over water, I am done risking my $10k rigs. (BTW I have the FAA 333 Exemption)
I am going to fly again Sunday and will try the different modes as others have suggested. I took a look at the setting page Mortalis noted but have no idea what to adjust, perhaps Mortalis can tell us what he did? Thanks
Anyway my first flight was flawless, performed as was reported by everyone else. A few notes though, the sun shade does not fit very securely, maybe they will fix that or I will do some kind of mod once I decide I will keep the hex.
It takes at least 1 to 1.5 minutes for the FPV image to appear on the controller after turning on the H, does everyone else have the same delay?
I am going to have tweak the gain setting, mine flies very twitchy, even at turtle setting. Or maybe that is just the nature of these small hexas.
I should note that my experience is solely with larger DIY builds, 800mm and 1100mm Hexacrafter airframes using WKM and A2. Filming with Sony Nex 7, Sony 6000 and Pannasonic GH4s on Zenmuse. Flying much larger craft is totally different with all that added mass. I got the H for jobs where there is more risk like flying over water, I am done risking my $10k rigs. (BTW I have the FAA 333 Exemption)
I am going to fly again Sunday and will try the different modes as others have suggested. I took a look at the setting page Mortalis noted but have no idea what to adjust, perhaps Mortalis can tell us what he did? Thanks
I tried to change the rate and expo but did it through the left hand selections and added the J3 and J4 (roll and pitch channels) to the function of the J1 (throttle). What that resulted in was when I rolled left it also increased in altitude and when I rolled right it decreased in altitude as well as rolling. Also, when I would pitch forward it would increase in altitude and pitch backward it would decrease in altitude. It took me quite a while to figure out that that 'added' those two channels to the throttle channel and was the actual issue. I tried recalibrating the compass and the accelerometer to no avail. Once I tried the 'Disable' option, that removed the J3 and J4 from the throttle and all was back to normal. I havent had a chance to try changing the expo and rate through the right side option buttons yet.
I will report back tomorrow after I have a chance to do so.
I will report back tomorrow after I have a chance to do so.
Rates and exponential ARE set by editing the properties of the "squares" on the left side of the channel settings screen. These squares correspond to the various inputs (switches, dials, levers, sticks and buttons) on the radio.
For Mode 2:
J1 is throttle (left stick up/down)
J2 is rudder (left stick right/left)
J3 is elevator (right stick up/down)
J4 is aileron (right stick left/right)
The squares on the right side of the screen are the radio's channels. By selecting a channel on the right side of the screen, you can then assign different radio inputs to that channel. You definitely DO NOT want to change the channel/input assignments because that will very likely cause the TH not to respond properly to the radio. The flight controller onboard the TH is expecting the get its input signals on the specific channels that are preprogrammed in the radio.
To edit the throttle, aileron, elevator and rudder curves, select the corresponding channel on the right of the screen, and then touch the already assigned input square on the left of the screen and select edit. E.g., to edit the rudder curves, select Ch4 (Rud) on the right of the screen and then touch and edit square J2 on the left side of the screen. Ch1 (Thr) has two inputs assigned to it, the left stick up/down and the red button that starts and stops the motors. The red button input is B1 - don't edit that one. Only edit J1 for the throttle curves.
If you select a channel on the right of the screen, e.g. Aileron, and then select, edit and save an input on the left side of the screen other than the already assigned input (J4), you have now assigned that input to the channel as well. So, if, while the aileron channel (ch3) is selected on the right of the screen, your were to select and edit input J1 on the left of the screen, inputs J4 and J1 would both be assigned to this channel. And, unless you have previously changed it, input J1 would still be assigned to throttle (ch1). The end result would be that when you moved the throttle stick on the radio a signal would be sent out in both channel 1 AND channel 3. Since the flight controller on the TH takes a signal on channel 1 as a throttle signal, and a signal on channel 3 as an aileron signal, moving the throttle stick on the radio would now cause the TH to both rise/fall AND roll. In this way, assigning the wrong inputs to the wrong channels could make the TH difficult to impossible to control.
It may seem difficult and/or confusing in the abstract, but if you go into the channel settings page and look around, it will start to make more sense.
For Mode 2:
J1 is throttle (left stick up/down)
J2 is rudder (left stick right/left)
J3 is elevator (right stick up/down)
J4 is aileron (right stick left/right)
The squares on the right side of the screen are the radio's channels. By selecting a channel on the right side of the screen, you can then assign different radio inputs to that channel. You definitely DO NOT want to change the channel/input assignments because that will very likely cause the TH not to respond properly to the radio. The flight controller onboard the TH is expecting the get its input signals on the specific channels that are preprogrammed in the radio.
To edit the throttle, aileron, elevator and rudder curves, select the corresponding channel on the right of the screen, and then touch the already assigned input square on the left of the screen and select edit. E.g., to edit the rudder curves, select Ch4 (Rud) on the right of the screen and then touch and edit square J2 on the left side of the screen. Ch1 (Thr) has two inputs assigned to it, the left stick up/down and the red button that starts and stops the motors. The red button input is B1 - don't edit that one. Only edit J1 for the throttle curves.
If you select a channel on the right of the screen, e.g. Aileron, and then select, edit and save an input on the left side of the screen other than the already assigned input (J4), you have now assigned that input to the channel as well. So, if, while the aileron channel (ch3) is selected on the right of the screen, your were to select and edit input J1 on the left of the screen, inputs J4 and J1 would both be assigned to this channel. And, unless you have previously changed it, input J1 would still be assigned to throttle (ch1). The end result would be that when you moved the throttle stick on the radio a signal would be sent out in both channel 1 AND channel 3. Since the flight controller on the TH takes a signal on channel 1 as a throttle signal, and a signal on channel 3 as an aileron signal, moving the throttle stick on the radio would now cause the TH to both rise/fall AND roll. In this way, assigning the wrong inputs to the wrong channels could make the TH difficult to impossible to control.
It may seem difficult and/or confusing in the abstract, but if you go into the channel settings page and look around, it will start to make more sense.
So, from your explanation I think I now know what I did. Since the 'Thr' channel was selected (by default) on the right side and I pressed the input for both J3 and J4 (seprately mind you) and tried changing the expo, that in essence added those two inputs to the throttle channel. But according to your explanation if I throttled up then the H should go either up and forward and left or down and backward and right but it didnt, it just went up. It was only when I used the right stick to go left / right and/or forward/backward did the actions include both the right stick input along with the throttle.
Either way, thanks for the clarification. Now I can use your way to try changing some of the expo.
I changed the expo to test a theory the twitching is not a hardware issue, but built into the code. I'm convinced that is the case. Even hitting the rate at 1%, a minimum angular pitch/roll command was invoked making it appear as a jerky motion. The trick is to not continually move the stick back toward center; find a speed and hold it. I'm learning the H requires more pilot input and control for smooth flight;
My 2c.
My 2c.
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@David Wilson - big thanks to show me i am not alone with that issue...and we see in smart mode its better. that the bird harder stops in fast bird its clear. thats why we need the GAIN and brakes control....YUNEEC do you listen?
so today i have tested my bird again...it make no big difference if i am in turtle or rabbit mode...its more the thing if i make movements under 30% of the stick, its like stop and go...sometimes better sometimes not... i have forget to test in smart mode, because i mostly fly in Pilot mode
And that stop and go is not normal if i make slow moves with GPS...
my F550 with the 2years old NazaM V2 can do this correct.
it would help us if YUNEEC tell us:
is it only our Typhoon H which don't work correct?
or have we wait for an update, which will make it better?
and give us the possibility to make our own settings?
i want control the speed from zero to 100% i don't want use the copter only with sticks movement in 100%
and maybe YUNEEC can give us in Rabbit mode a little more speed...in follow me mode it goes up to 70KmH
so today i have tested my bird again...it make no big difference if i am in turtle or rabbit mode...its more the thing if i make movements under 30% of the stick, its like stop and go...sometimes better sometimes not... i have forget to test in smart mode, because i mostly fly in Pilot mode
And that stop and go is not normal if i make slow moves with GPS...my F550 with the 2years old NazaM V2 can do this correct.
it would help us if YUNEEC tell us:
is it only our Typhoon H which don't work correct?
or have we wait for an update, which will make it better?
and give us the possibility to make our own settings?
i want control the speed from zero to 100% i don't want use the copter only with sticks movement in 100%
and maybe YUNEEC can give us in Rabbit mode a little more speed...in follow me mode it goes up to 70KmH
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