Have a CGO 3+ camera that was damaged and had new slip ring installed. There is a way to re-calibrate the camera that Yuneec can do if you send it to there techs. Anyone have a link to the programming software? If they can do it I would like to try myself before shipping the camera off $$$$$$$. Camera video feed works and vertical works but camera spins around.
Typhoon H camera slip ring replacement
- Thread starter Senior Chief Mock
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- camera spins cgo 3+
You should not have to send it in to calibrate after replacing the slip rings. That is when the encoder (and possibly the motor) has to be replaced on one of the axes. The slip rings only transfer power and PWM signals.
If doing the gimbal calibration from the ST-16 screen doesn’t work, then there was more wrong than just the slip rings. Make sure to power cycle the TH after doing the calibration.
How bad was the damage? Did anything else get repaired or replaced? Who replaced the slip ring?
@Mrgs1 reminds me of a couple things that can go wrong when replacing the slip ring:
The pan sensor(encoder) wires are easy to damage, especially if the slip ring wires were "fished" out at the bottom. The fishing method may also dislodge the sensor from it's holder. Even if the camera was disassembled, the short, frail wires on the sensor are easy to damage anyway. And, of course, the sensor may have suffered either mechanical or electrical damage during the event. The may be something to check.
As @DoomMeister stated, the new slip ring itself does not require recalibration. That assumes nothing is damaged, and everything is properly connected. Specifically, the green wire controls camera rotation. Normally, it should be in a range of just a couple volts. I don't know the actual target voltage for CGo3+, but the camera spins if that control voltage is a little below target, or if it is above target. If green wire voltage is zero, I THINK the camera defaults to it's on-board control, and will just face forward. It sounds like the green wire is either in the wrong place, or something is shorted to it.
Note also the possibility of some very bad news. Both the blue and red wires are at battery voltage. If the green wire contacted either of these during the event, it is possible the mainboard is damaged, the gimbal board is damaged, or both.
The pan sensor(encoder) wires are easy to damage, especially if the slip ring wires were "fished" out at the bottom. The fishing method may also dislodge the sensor from it's holder. Even if the camera was disassembled, the short, frail wires on the sensor are easy to damage anyway. And, of course, the sensor may have suffered either mechanical or electrical damage during the event. The may be something to check.
As @DoomMeister stated, the new slip ring itself does not require recalibration. That assumes nothing is damaged, and everything is properly connected. Specifically, the green wire controls camera rotation. Normally, it should be in a range of just a couple volts. I don't know the actual target voltage for CGo3+, but the camera spins if that control voltage is a little below target, or if it is above target. If green wire voltage is zero, I THINK the camera defaults to it's on-board control, and will just face forward. It sounds like the green wire is either in the wrong place, or something is shorted to it.
Note also the possibility of some very bad news. Both the blue and red wires are at battery voltage. If the green wire contacted either of these during the event, it is possible the mainboard is damaged, the gimbal board is damaged, or both.
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PatR
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