Wifi connection on my ST16

[ChadCloses]

I have to manually connect to my wifi everytime. But even when I do that as soon as I go back to the home screen my connection disappears!! Anyone else had this happen?


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[ChadCloses]

For the life of me I cannot get my controller to bind with the flight simulator.


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[PatR]

Did you download the sim software from the Yuneec site? Don't know it that's a prerequisite for linking with the ST-16 but thought I'd toss it out there.

 

[Steve Carr]

Not sure I understand. Are these two different issues?

 

[ChadCloses]

Finally got it to work. Does the wifi signal indicator always disappear when going to the home screen?


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[Eagle's Eye Video]

For the life of me I cannot get my controller to bind with the flight simulator.

Yes, it usually takes me 2 or 3 attempts to get the sim to talk to the ST16...

 

[ChadCloses]

Just took my drone out of the back back for the first time as I was going to see if I needed to do a firmware update and the grommets on the camera gamble don't seem to be attached. Two of the opposite corners have the pins in them but one of the grommets isn't glued to the frame and two of the grommets aren't pulled through the hole. Is that normal? It looks like there's a lot of movement.



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[ChadCloses]

Wouldn't it be better to have pins in all 4 locations?


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[Eagle's Eye Video]

It is the correct setup... the gimbal has dampeners on all 4 corners and 2 pins in opposite corners.
However if the any of the dampeners have pulled out of the holes you should pull them back through.
A loop of dental floss can help you pull them through, and a small pair of hemostats works well to
ease the rubber flange all around that hole. You should remove that upper cover plate from the
gimbal and check that the dampeners are all completely seated correctly on the other side too.

The premise behind it is, whatever is minimal to keep that camera steady. In the event of a minor
crash (which I have had), the mount will pull apart relatively easily... I had also thought, well that
should be shored up somehow. But if it was more securely attached, it will be likely to transfer more
kinetic energy directly to the camera, resulting in more damage. With the camera being $500, and
the replacement mount being $10, I'll blow through as many mounts as necessary.

It's also cheap enough that it's worthwhile to order a set in advance, so when necessary to replace,
you don't have to wait a week on shipping (or pay additional for Expedited Shipping).

 

[PatR]

None of the vibration dampers should be glued to anything. They are slip fit through holes in the mounts at both ends. People like UPS are very hard on the way they handle things despite the best efforts of manufacturers to protect them them within well designed, protective containers. Because of that there are times when some of the dampers have separated from the mounts before they get to the buyer. Places like CarolinaDronz appear to check them out before shipping to the end customer but we still have to deal with the final links in the delivery chain that bring them to us.


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[ChadCloses]

Thanks everyone!!! I can't believe this worked but I straightened a small paper clip except for the small end which I pinched to hold the top of the grommet. I then fed the paper clip from the underside of the mount and when I pulled it through the grommet snapped into place. Only took me two tries, not sure I'd get that luck again. Lol


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[ChadCloses]

It is the correct setup... the gimbal has dampeners on all 4 corners and 2 pins in opposite corners.
However if the any of the dampeners have pulled out of the holes you should pull them back through.
A loop of dental floss can help you pull them through, and a small pair of hemostats works well to
ease the rubber flange all around that hole. You should remove that upper cover plate from the
gimbal and check that the dampeners are all completely seated correctly on the other side too.

The premise behind it is, whatever is minimal to keep that camera steady. In the event of a minor
crash (which I have had), the mount will pull apart relatively easily... I had also thought, well that
should be shored up somehow. But if it was more securely attached, it will be likely to transfer more
kinetic energy directly to the camera, resulting in more damage. With the camera being $500, and
the replacement mount being $10, I'll blow through as many mounts as necessary.

It's also cheap enough that it's worthwhile to order a set in advance, so when necessary to replace,
you don't have to wait a week on shipping (or pay additional for Expedited Shipping).

Where are you buying the grommet set for $10? I think having extras is solid advise!! Also, do you buy extra propellers? If so, where would you recommend I purchase them from?

Thanks,
Chad

 

[Eagle's Eye Video]

Where are you buying the grommet set for $10? I think having extras is solid advise!! Also, do you buy extra propellers? If so, where would you recommend I purchase them from?

Thanks,
Chad

Mount Set: Yuneec Typhoon H CGO3+

Yes, I have in my emergency parts "kit":

3 sets of both "A" and "B" propellers - total of 18 props
1 set I had already had as a spare, then got 2 more spare sets with a purchase of my second H from a member.

1 Gimbal mount
1 Landing strut
2 Propeller locks, one each for "A" and "B"

The Brotect Matte Screen Protector really cuts down on the glare when using the ST16:

https://www.amazon.com/BROTECT-Screen-Protector-Anti-Glare-Anti-Scratch/dp/B01M8IV102/