Depends on what props you use on them. The Master Air Screw props are designed to cut noise and add performance.
Depends on what props you use on them. The Master Air Screw props are designed to cut noise and add performance.
Hmm, great tip. That said, I am only using my 4 Ty 4Ks as camera platforms, so performance is not a huge concern. I can see how the Master Airscrew props would be quieter though, the blades look wider. 3 blades instead of 2 also looks like the quads would perform better. I have so many Yuneek props though!! 8 sets to be precise. I will probably use those until they become an issue. The Q500 Ty 4K seems pretty quiet out of the box.
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One thing to consider is that if you get your 107 Cert and begin to fly under those rules, you are required to operate and maintain the aircraft according to any and all factory recommended maintenance procedures. I do not know about the Typhoon 4K, but the manual for Typhoon H specifically states: Do not use with incompatible components or alter this product in any way outside of the instructions provided by Yuneec. So aftermarket, non-Yuneec props are a no go for commercial operators. 
PatR
Premium Pilot
The original intent behind the creation of three blade props was to make effective use of high output engines where two blade props were so large they interfered with ground clearance. Think F4U Corsair in WW2. A 2 blade prop that would work would impact the ground upon landing, even with the gull wing. Three blade props for modeling are typically used to reduce propulsion noise by lowering tip speed but in the process also reduce performance efficiency to some extent. The general rule is to increase pitch while reducing diameter when adding a blade but our blade pitch is very low in order to generate maximum thrust. Full scale Reynolds numbers don’t scale down proportional to model size, weight, and power levels. For improved efficiency a wider, slower turning prop is a better choice as they can generate greater thrust levels for the diameter and pitch in play.
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One thing to consider is that if you get your 107 Cert and begin to fly under those rules, you are required to operate and maintain the aircraft according to any and all factory recommended maintenance procedures. I do not know about the Typhoon 4K, but the manual for Typhoon H specifically states: Do not use with incompatible components or alter this product in any way outside of the instructions provided by Yuneec. So aftermarket, non-Yuneec props are a no go for commercial operators.
Very helpful information! I had not gotten to that detail yet. Thanks for the useful tip.
The master air screw props I was referring to are these ones. Still two blades but have the turned up end. They can be used on the Phantom series or the Autel X-star. They claim about 2 minutes more flight time but you will never see any difference in flight time. Just a lot quieter.
DJI Phantom Propellers – Master Airscrew
DJI Phantom Propellers – Master Airscrew
By the way, I don't know if any of you experienced pilots (or some less so) are using Yuneek's UAV Pilot Flight Simulator or not, but man, that thing is awesome!! Cheap too, picked up the dongle for $35 bucks and it works perfectly with the ST10+.
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
Yes, the P2V+ is a dji jobby. P2V+=Phantom 2 Vision Plus.
It is a rather elderly quad, but I still have it in service as a back up to my H and I use it on many of my hobby flights...tending to reserve (but not exclusively) the H for the commercial stuff. Indeed, I only ordered a new battery for it earlier today: Last time I had it out, yesterday, I noticed that one of my batteries (3 and a half years old) wasn't performing too well.
Are the batts LiPo on yours? They are tricky to take care of. It is necessary to store them at 50% charge. If they are stored at full capacity it wrecks them, and they are also damaged by storing them fully discharged. I have a buddy with that bird. They are pretty stout. He recently crashed it into a cliff, and all he had to do was change the props. I like the Yuneek UAVs better, but it is a good unit. It is just so loud!!
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
Yes, Li-Po. The P2V+ smart batteries are supposed to auto-discharge to storage from fully charged if they haven't been used for 10 days.
Wow, that is a cool feature! It took me hours to discharge a bunch of batts that I charged up before knowing about the 50% issue. I took the props off along with the camera and achieved 50% by tracking the discharge percentage on the ST10+. Kind of a pain!
Get yourself a cheap aftermarket charger. They come with a discharge option. You can pick up a aftermarket charger for under $100 bucks.
The Smart batteries that discharge on their own are really not so smart, trust me on that one. You need to deep cycle these batteries every 3 months or 20 charges which ever comes first. The battery Sense Module (BSM) needs to recalculate as it gets confused as to how much charge is actually left in the battery. These batteries have their own firmware and it sometimes is a big pain in the rear end. I have had them go from 40% charge to a critical drop 0f 8% and wanting to land now. Not a nice feeling when you are out over water
Get yourself a cheap aftermarket charger. They come with a discharge option. You can pick up a aftermarket charger for under $100 bucks.
The Smart batteries that discharge on their own are really not so smart, trust me on that one. You need to deep cycle these batteries every 3 months or 20 charges which ever comes first. The battery Sense Module (BSM) needs to recalculate as it gets confused as to how much charge is actually left in the battery. These batteries have their own firmware and it sometimes is a big pain in the rear end. I have had them go from 40% charge to a critical drop 0f 8% and wanting to land now. Not a nice feeling when you are out over water
Interesting. Sounds like maintaining the batts manually via one method or another is still better. This likely explains why Yuneek apparently did not make their batteries "smart".
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An aftermarket charger with the storage option is pretty mandatory but as noted, the time it takes to bring a fully charged battery to storage level on a charger can take a lot of time. I've found that if I have a battery that was not used and in need of storage (this is for the Typhoon H, YMMV), I simply do a flight at home in the back yard till the voltage as read on the ST 16 is down to around 14.6 - 14.8 volts under flight load. After a cool down period, the batteries rebound very close to a 15.2 volt standard, from there the storage procedure is used and time on the charger is usually less than 15 minutes or so and a few times you'll get lucky and be very near right on it. How the batteries get to the rested state of 15.2 does not matter, get it close from flying then do the rest with a charger.
Makes sense. I have read about that procedure in several other places as well. What I was not aware of is how much the batts rebound. I should go back and check the ones I discharged to 50% and make sure that is still where they are at. Thanks for the great tip.
Disclaimer: Always use extreme caution! The following is not an endorsement but rather an example of a tool to rig up a discharge option.
Another option some other of us old, I mean experienced fliers use, is to hook up a battery to a car headlight (aka Steve Carr) or a fog light.
Check out this: Ultimaxx BATTERY TESTER FOR YUNEEC Q500 & TYPHOON H BATTERY
Note the digital readout. Using the proper connector, one can rig up a load to help discharge a Typhoon H battery.
Jeff
Another option some other of us old, I mean experienced fliers use, is to hook up a battery to a car headlight (aka Steve Carr) or a fog light.
Check out this: Ultimaxx BATTERY TESTER FOR YUNEEC Q500 & TYPHOON H BATTERY
Note the digital readout. Using the proper connector, one can rig up a load to help discharge a Typhoon H battery.
Jeff
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Thanks for that tip, Jeff! Looks like a great low-cost alternative to buying another charger...especially considering I already have 4!! haha
