H motors not starting

[Ozark]

Last time I flew (last fall) it flew great. Packed everything up in the original box when done and stored it in a spare bedroom and pulled it out last week. No motor start. I did a restore three times on the controller. I manually rolled the firmware back on the H and re-updated it three times as well. (Note: last time I updated was about 2 years ago, so it had nothing to do with the failure) I cleaned the right stick pots and everything looks great, except it won't start. I remembered that I got a wizard with it and even tried that. Same failure to start. I've never used the wizard before so I'm not real familiar with its use so I had to watch a couple of online videos to get it hooked up. One thing I did notice is that the light under the third icon on the wizard never lit up. The manual says it's an "aircraft status led". Ready indicator?? When on the ST16 it does indicate "ready" under the model.
I did hook up the H to my laptop via the gui and got the motors to start without issue. After my last model build and binding, the motors started once (idling without the props). I let them run for 3-4 seconds and thought I was good to go so I shut it down and put the props on. I took it outside and got ready to fly, but again the motor startup. I'm at wits end.

 

[WTFDproject]

@Ozark,
Please clarify if any of the "restore" , "roll back" or re-update was done just before or just after the problem emerged.

 

[Ozark]

Thanks for the quick reply.

Nothing was done before the problem emerged. I flew several months ago and all went well. Also noted at it was a sunny day, so no possible weather / moisture related trouble. I pulled my H out last week to fly and the motors would not start. My initial thought was to get it hooked up to my laptop to verify that the motors worked. After having some trouble getting the gui up on my new laptop I finally got it running by entering the gui as administrator. Anyway, I was able to get the motors going through the gui. After reading through the forum threads I started with building a new model; to no avail. Then I stumbled across the instructions for factory resetting the controller, so I did that. Still nothing. Then I ran across the instructions for rolling back the firmware of the H and re-updating it. Again, nothing. I've done all of the work over the last 4 evenings, after getting the gui going. Oh, I also pulled the top off the H to verify that there was no obvious electrical trouble (ie. overheated caps or burnt smell). All looked and smelled ok.

 

[WTFDproject]

Lets start here:
Use the ST16 "Final Output Display" to verify the Start button is actually sending a signal:
1.) Ensure The Typhoon H is OFF.
2.) Ensure ST16 is booted up and on the main screen.
3.) Do a rapid double tap on the volts Icon. A new display will pop up.
4.) Ensure CH01 is at about 50% by reading the value above the CH01 scale.
5.) Press and hold the red start button, and ensure CH01 goes all the way to the bottom of the scale and reads about -025% above the scale. Ensure the (-) (negative) sign is present.
6.) Release the Start Button.
7.) Place the rabbit/turtle slider down to "turtle".
8.) Move the Left stick full range up and down. The CH01 should move again, but this time should range from about +20% to about +80%. (a couple of percent miss is OK).
9.) Move the rabbit/turtle slider up to "rabbit".
10.) Move the Left stick full range up and down. The CH01 should move again, but this time should range from about +100% to about 0.0% (a few percent of miss is OK).

 

[Murray Martz]

Last time I flew (last fall) it flew great. Packed everything up in the original box when done and stored it in a spare bedroom and pulled it out last week. No motor start. I did a restore three times on the controller. I manually rolled the firmware back on the H and re-updated it three times as well. (Note: last time I updated was about 2 years ago, so it had nothing to do with the failure) I cleaned the right stick pots and everything looks great, except it won't start. I remembered that I got a wizard with it and even tried that. Same failure to start. I've never used the wizard before so I'm not real familiar with its use so I had to watch a couple of online videos to get it hooked up. One thing I did notice is that the light under the third icon on the wizard never lit up. The manual says it's an "aircraft status led". Ready indicator?? When on the ST16 it does indicate "ready" under the model.
I did hook up the H to my laptop via the gui and got the motors to start without issue. After my last model build and binding, the motors started once (idling without the props). I let them run for 3-4 seconds and thought I was good to go so I shut it down and put the props on. I took it outside and got ready to fly, but again the motor startup. I'm at wits end.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you do not have a GPS lock, it will not start. Try turning off the GPS to see if it will fire up.

 

[Ozark]

Lets start here:
Use the ST16 "Final Output Display" to verify the Start button is actually sending a signal:
1.) Ensure The Typhoon H is OFF.
2.) Ensure ST16 is booted up and on the main screen.
3.) Do a rapid double tap on the volts Icon. A new display will pop up.
4.) Ensure CH01 is at about 50% by reading the value above the CH01 scale.
5.) Press and hold the red start button, and ensure CH01 goes all the way to the bottom of the scale and reads about -025% above the scale. Ensure the (-) (negative) sign is present.
6.) Release the Start Button.
7.) Place the rabbit/turtle slider down to "turtle".
8.) Move the Left stick full range up and down. The CH01 should move again, but this time should range from about +20% to about +80%. (a couple of percent miss is OK).

CH01 is exactly 50% and exactly -025% on press of the start button
Left stick nets 079% and 020% on turtle and 099% and 001% on rabbit

 

[Ozark]

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you do not have a GPS lock, it will not start. Try turning off the GPS to see if it will fire up.

Thanks, I did that as well. The only thing I get is 3 descending tones. I've tried all 3 flight modes as well. The leds on the drone change colors corresponding with the mode changes.

 

[WTFDproject]

Next thing:
The system is not only looking at the number of satellites, but also the quality of the signals. GPS readings indoors are far more subject to reflection, and are not usable. With this in mind;

Have you allowed both Controller and Drone to stand powered up, in an open area, with clear view of the sky, for at least 20 minutes?

 

[Ozark]

Next thing:
The system is not only looking at the number of satellites, but also the quality of the signals. GPS readings indoors are far more subject to reflection, and are not usable. With this in mind;

Have you allowed both Controller and Drone to stand powered up, in an open area, with clear view of the sky, for at least 20 minutes?

No, I have not. I will sit them both outside and get back with you in about 20.
However, I did turn GPS off when trying to start it as well.

 

[WTFDproject]

At the end of the 20 minutes:
What color is the rear LED?
Is it solid or flashing?

 

[Ozark]

At the end of the 20 minutes:
What color is the rear LED?
Is it solid or flashing?

OK, the LED is purple (3 flashes). Also, the H sounds a short beep every 30 seconds.
Attached is a pic of the controller.

 

[NorWiscPilot]

Did anyone notice “Acquiring” for GPS status?

 

[PatR]

Power buttons oxidize too.

 

[WTFDproject]

So now we need to take a little side trip.

I just noticed you did not mention having the RealSense module. I don't think IPS is available without Realsense.

 

[Ozark]

OK, I do have the realsense module. It did not come with it, I added it.
The unit will not go into IPS mode. I tried fast cycling the mode control and slow cycling.

 

[WTFDproject]

And I don't have the ReasSense, and am not familiar with it to the point I can suggest anything else. I hope one of the other participants will chime in with better information on this.
However, we can move on. We will eventually have to get to the real issue anyway.
At this point, I am fairly convinced the issue is in the drone, not the controller.

There are some things to check inside the drone.
1.) GPS battery voltage. This is not a high likelihood, since it was only in storage for a few months. However, it is worth checking. A reading with drone "power off" less than 1.4V will mean the GPS cannot maintain it's almanac while power is off, and will require an extended acquisition period at each start-up. A voltage less than 1.4V with the drone "powered on" means it will never acquire GPS. This video by @Steve Carr will show how to check voltage:
"

"
Recharging the battery takes changing out the flight battery every couple hours, and can take up to 72 hours to fully charge. Not a really inviting solution. We can talk more options if readings are too low.

2.) Corroded contacts on the GPS plug. Unplug and replug several times, and use alchohol or plastic safe contact cleaner to help remove any corrosion:

3.) Corroded contacts on the flight control board. Carefully pull the FC board off, again use alcohol or contact cleaner, and try to freshen the contacts. CAREFULLY align the pins. It's easy to install it one row of pins out of alignment.

If none of these help, it may be that either the FC Board, or the GPS module are bad, and will require replacement.

 

[Ozark]

Power buttons oxidize too.

And I don't have the ReasSense, and am not familiar with it to the point I can suggest anything else. I hope one of the other participants will chime in with better information on this.
However, we can move on. We will eventually have to get to the real issue anyway.
At this point, I am fairly convinced the issue is in the drone, not the controller.

There are some things to check inside the drone.
1.) GPS battery voltage. This is not a high likelihood, since it was only in storage for a few months. However, it is worth checking. A reading with drone "power off" less than 1.4V will mean the GPS cannot maintain it's almanac while power is off, and will require an extended acquisition period at each start-up. A voltage less than 1.4V with the drone "powered on" means it will never acquire GPS. This video by @Steve Carr will show how to check voltage:
"

"
Recharging the battery takes changing out the flight battery every couple hours, and can take up to 72 hours to fully charge. Not a really inviting solution. We can talk more options if readings are too low.

2.) Corroded contacts on the GPS plug. Unplug and replug several times, and use alchohol or plastic safe contact cleaner to help remove any corrosion:

3.) Corroded contacts on the flight control board. Carefully pull the FC board off, again use alcohol or contact cleaner, and try to freshen the contacts. CAREFULLY align the pins. It's easy to install it one row of pins out of alignment.

4.) If none of these help, it may be that either the FC Board, or the GPS module are bad, and will require replacement.

OK, Thanks.
I'll get the multi meter out tomorrow and start checking voltages and plugs. I'll check back after I'm done and see if any more ideas are floated. I may try taking the RealSense off and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts.

 

[WTFDproject]

OK, Thanks.
I'll get the multi meter out tomorrow and start checking voltages and plugs.

This is another video by @Steve Carr, showing how to remove the FC Board:
"

"

In general, he has lots of good videos in this tutorial series. You might want to save this link somewhere:
"Yuneec Typhoon Repair Tutorials - YouTube"

 

[Ozark]

Quick question. What is purpose for the micro sd card socket on the bottom of the flight control board?

 

[Murray Martz]

Thanks, I did that as well. The only thing I get is 3 descending tones. I've tried all 3 flight modes as well. The leds on the drone change colors corresponding with the mode changes.

3 descending tones are because the remote is not bound even though the camera is. Create a new model in the system settings. Bind the new Model H with the system and the sound should go away.