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Problem with h520 yaw

Let's see if I remember what I saw of how to fix this. I saw it with the H480 but it can works on this one too.

Turn it upside down, turn it on, flip the gear switch. I can't remember if it had to be turned on or off when I turned it on. You prove that the tests are very simple.
 
Let's see if I remember what I saw of how to fix this. I saw it with the H480 but it still works on this one too.
Turn it upside down, turn it on, flip the gear switch. I can't remember if it had to be turned on or off when I turned it on. You prove that the tests are very simple.
Remove the camera first. And it does work on the H480. Allow it to boot up while level and then turn it over to test the gear.
 
Ouch.......check the operation of the stick on the ST16 in the channel menu and see if it is working properly. I have not heard of anyone having any issues when cleaning the sticks. That is what the cleaner is made for and it doesn't affect plastic.
Thanks @Steve Carr I looked in the channels and the switch doesn't cause any of the green bars to fluctuate. So guessing it might be an ST16S again, and not the H520 itself.
The only thing done since the last flight is the application of the contact cleaner.
I know you can't jump to conclusions, but it would seem probable that that is what has affected it, short of a fundamentally duff ST16S.
Either way, I'm edging towards just asking for a new ST16S as replacement OR a whole new H520 pack (though I've discarded much of the original packaging, etc and shipping from NZ to US is expensive, never mind I can't get the H520 back in its packaging with legs splayed open) OR a refund and go buy the new DJI Matrice 200 when it comes out...
 
Thanks @Steve Carr I looked in the channels and the switch doesn't cause any of the green bars to fluctuate. So guessing it might be an ST16S again, and not the H520 itself.
The only thing done since the last flight is the application of the contact cleaner.
I know you can't jump to conclusions, but it would seem probable that that is what has affected it, short of a fundamentally duff ST16S.
Either way, I'm edging towards just asking for a new ST16S as replacement OR a whole new H520 pack (though I've discarded much of the original packaging, etc and shipping from NZ to US is expensive, never mind I can't get the H520 back in its packaging with legs splayed open) OR a refund and go buy the new DJI Matrice 200 when it comes out...
Do you know how to do a factory reset on the ST16?
 
Don't despair, on the Channels screen you have to look at the last one called Switches. It's common for all switches, you should see that the number changes when you move it.

If you reset the drone and return the undercarriage to its place, leave it in a level position for at least a couple of minutes so that most calibrations are performed automatically. Then you'll just have to do one manually.
 
on the Channels screen you have to look at the last one called Switches. It's common for all switches, you should see that the number changes when you move it.
I think that is what he did to check the switch and nothing changed on the graph. It's possible this is a software issue rather than a mechanical switch problem. Doing a factory reset of the ST16 would correct it if it's software related. If it doesn't fix it then the switch may be bad.
 
In the menu Parameters I seem to remember. Now I can't start the aircraft, it's too late and I don't want my wife to kill me.

If you can't find it, tomorrow I'll tell you for sure. Have you tried turning it and flipping the switch?

P.D.: I have to check what I post before I send it, my English makes me kick the dictionary :oops:
 
I think that is what he did to check the switch and nothing changed on the graph. It's possible this is a software issue rather than a mechanical switch problem. Doing a factory reset of the ST16 would correct it if it's software related. If it doesn't fix it then the switch may be bad.
@arruntus / @Steve Carr apologies. Just reviewed the Channels, and whilst no green bar changes with the toggling of the undercarriage switch, the Switch value/number beside the bar changes. Missed it in the field as it was subtle. But now I'm home and reading your post I see the small number changes.

In some good news, I left the H520 on its back and powered it on without the E90 and the legs came down on their own.

But now I have to either get back in the car and go see if it does it again in the field, or find some way of verifying without actually flying the thing if the switch and undercarriage are playing nicely again. And why it happened in the first place.

I'm thinking I should write this weekend of flying off and erase it from my memory....
 
You can't visually see that it changes because the number difference is small.

Always remember to lift all switches before turning on the transmitter.

Don't worry, it's the nerves of the new toy. That's how we all learn. ;)

Good flight and you can tell us if you've had any more problems.
 
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ut now I have to either get back in the car and go see if it does it again in the field,
So you don't have the 520 with you? Not sure how much difference there is with the H480, but turning it up side down allows the landing gear to be cycled.
 
So you don't have the 520 with you? Not sure how much difference there is with the H480, but turning it up side down allows the landing gear to be cycled.

Yes Steve, has solved it :)

So many messages and we got confused. In my case again until almost dawn here. Reading the entire manual again. I have to say that I have had to look at the English version because in the Spanish version there are many translation errors.

I have a ticket with Yuneec open for the SD card. With a bit of luck, tomorrow, Monday, I get a reply and I comment on what they tell me.
 
For anyone else with a slightly yawing (or any other axis movement, I guess) H520, please follow the brilliant advice of @Steve Carr and use a little plastic-safe electrical contact cleaner down the base of the stick whilst moving it.

It seems to have fixed my problem.

I have had 2 flights since, and the yaw seems to have gone away.

Also, checking the Channels screen in the hidden menu, the stick now centers after movement and there is no wandering of slider value.
@Steve Carr / @arruntus thank you SO much guys!
 
oh on the st16s mod I did when changing out the battery you must detached the mod cartridge (ex main st16s battery from the back of the st16s controller due to a now duplicate battery safety circuit. the mod just removed the battery itself but not the supporting safety circuit board.
 
got 12 full flights in with the mod no problems just additional step of when changing h480 st16+ battery I also disconnect the h520 st16s battery shell from the controller and after I change out one of 4 remaining h480 st16+ fully charge controller batteries. I reconnect the h520 st16s battery shell to the h520 st16s controller then turn the power back on for the next set of flights to be flown. I have to wait till I get new props in. with 20 full flights the props are now expired but current condition for the props are still in near mint shape.
 
I'm experiencing the same problem. Angle mode. Solid GPS. Accelerometer and compass calibrated. But when sitting still in the air, it slowly yaws left.
Did anyone find a solution?
How do you check/calibrate the ST16S sticks?
Thanks in advance

I have had the same problem with ST10 and 16.
Took me a while to figure out the slight drift when in hover.
Had the controler replaced but after a while the problem returned.
It turns out, that the right stick can get stuck slightly from 0 position, while controller is OFF
To solve this, I now give both sticks a good rattle for a few seconds and then turn the controller ON again.

Seems that many ST16 experience the same issue.
 
I have had the same problem with ST10 and 16.
Took me a while to figure out the slight drift when in hover.
Had the controler replaced but after a while the problem returned.
It turns out, that the right stick can get stuck slightly from 0 position, while controller is OFF
To solve this, I now give both sticks a good rattle for a few seconds and then turn the controller ON again.

Seems that many ST16 experience the same issue.

What is rare is that the ST16S being new and knowledgeable about the problem we are in the same situation. Will they be the same components on both transmitters?

At least the solution is simple without having to send the transmitter to fix.
 

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