Problem with h520 yaw

[javier Olalla González]

When the h520 is stationary in the air, it slowly yaws to the left.
When looking in the hidden menu of the St16s I see that with the sticks centered, the channel J2 corresponding to the yaw, is displaced.
Will the sticks be badly calibrated?

 

[ArltTech]

When the h520 is stationary in the air, it slowly yaws to the left.
When looking in the hidden menu of the St16s I see that with the sticks centered, the channel J2 corresponding to the yaw, is displaced.
Will the sticks be badly calibrated?
View attachment 7548

Interesting. In that menu are you able to move the indicator for J2 back to center with the scroll type buttons under the sticks? I have not seen any description of what they are for, but I imagine something like that perhaps. Trim buttons; EPA...?

 

[Steve Carr]

I'm guessing the sticks need cleaned before doing a calibration. This has occurred on many ST16's.

 

[journeyman]

I'm experiencing the same problem. Angle mode. Solid GPS. Accelerometer and compass calibrated. But when sitting still in the air, it slowly yaws left.
Did anyone find a solution?
How do you check/calibrate the ST16S sticks?
Thanks in advance

 

[Steve Carr]

Maybe @Bob520 will have some answers.

 

[arruntus]

I'm experiencing the same problem. Angle mode. Solid GPS. Accelerometer and compass calibrated. But when sitting still in the air, it slowly yaws left.
Did anyone find a solution?
How do you check/calibrate the ST16S sticks?
Thanks in advance

H520 - Calibrate ST16S sticks and controls

If you have to calibrate the ST16S sticks and controls, these are the steps to follow.

1.- Check the status of the sticks and transmitter controls

In DataPilot we press the menu
​

2.- Within the menu we must activate the hidden and advanced menu pressed several times on the menu button until a warning dialog box appears.

Warning!!!! Using the advanced mode is dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Do it with caution and without changing anything you don't know what it's for.
In advanced mode, more options appear and even more so if you are connected to the H520.​

3.- To check the values between which the transmitter controls oscillate, click on the Channels button. This option only exits if you are connected to the H520.



If the numerical range of a control is not correct or does not focus well on the midpoint.....

4.- We proceed to calibrate by pressing the Rc Calibration option.

In order to do that, we must disconnect from the H520. We proceed to shut down the aircraft and press the Start Calibration button.
​

We must take all the sticks and sliders (the two rear and the rotating front that controls the camera panning) to their highest and lowest values several times until the indicators turn green. It is important to leave the sliders in their mid-point (in the rear ones we are guided by the mid-point mark).
​

5.- Once we have all the indicators in green and the sliders in the middle point we press the Stop Calibration button.



The process is complete, we can turn on the H520 and check that everything is correct.

P.D.I will publish it in the thread of basic procedures so that it doesn't get lost.

 

[Steve Carr]

P.D.I will publish it in the thread of basic procedures so that it doesn't get lost.

Thanks for posting that information. Since it's also possible the stick may have oxidation causing an erratic output, where do you find the test screen to check all the controls? On the H, the sticks need to be checked prior to doing a calibration.

 

[arruntus]

Thanks for posting that information. Since it's also possible the stick may have oxidation causing an erratic output, where do you find the test screen to check all the controls? On the H, the sticks need to be checked prior to doing a calibration.

I accidentally deleted an image, the third one. Tomorrow morning I will put it right that here we are at dawn and you can mute the transmitter but the H520 is not and I will wake everyone up if I do it now

Anyway you can see it in the image of the first post, Channels button. The transmitter must be connected to the H520.

For now, being everything new, I don't think that oxidation will give us any problems , but later it could be.

I am now more concerned that one battery doesn't charge me 100% and I can't run the new SD card

 

[Steve Carr]

For now, being everything new, I don't think that oxidation will give us any problems , but later it could be.

Many of the ST16's supplied with the H had oxidized sticks on the first flight. Also, many of the replacement sticks had the same problem right off the shelf. That is exactly why it's important to verify the stick is good before calibrating. Obviously, calibrating a poorly functioning stick will yield a temporary fix, if at all.

 

[Steve Carr]

I am now more concerned that one battery doesn't charge me 100%

I think the batteries only have a 30 day warranty, so if this is new you might want to call Yuneec immediately.

 

[arruntus]

I think the batteries only have a 30 day warranty, so if this is new you might want to call Yuneec immediately.

This new one, not even a flight, I just loaded it to set it all right. I've started charging that battery and the ST16S at the same time. I detected that the transformer was heating a lot, almost burning to the touch. I don't know if it's normal. I'm surprised he gets so hot because otherwise his life will be too short. Then with the other battery I tried it for a while and it didn't get too hot, I have to do more tests but I'm afraid it might be defective, I don't know yet.

Unfortunately, the haulier besides bringing the H520 has also brought bad weather. Bad luck

 

[Steve Carr]

This new one, not even a flight, I just loaded it to set it all right. I've started charging that battery and the ST16S at the same time. I detected that the transformer was heating a lot, almost burning to the touch. I don't know if it's normal. I'm surprised he gets so hot because otherwise his life will be too short. Then with the other battery I tried it for a while and it didn't get too hot, I have to do more tests but I'm afraid it might be defective, I don't know yet.
Unfortunately, the haulier besides bringing the H520 has also brought bad weather. Bad luck

You have not had a good day. Sorry to hear about the weather and the problems. It does sound like a bad battery. The charger should not get that hot. Can you check each of the cells with a volt meter?

 

[Steve Carr]

The LIHV battery at full charge should read 4.35 volts on each cell for a total of 17.4 volts.

 

[journeyman]

@arruntus the H520 is starting to look like a bad purchase...

I checked the yaw stick in the hidden menu. Sure enough, it is not centered and is wandering in value even with stick input. Also, on full left and right it only gets about 60% across the screen, and it varies in value while holding the stick at full left or right.

I did a recalibration and it looked ok for a few movements, but then it started to do the same thing - off set center, poor range, and wandering values at any given fixed stick input.

So I've just contacted Vertigo Drones via their website to ask about getting a new ST16S.

@Steve Carr / @arruntus Also, my yuneec supplied power supply blew the other night, and it was linked to charging the ST16S through the drone battery base unit. With living in NZ, I just got on and bought a new power supply from a laptop shop that had the same output. I have had to charge the ST16S from a generic charger, but it gets VERY hot. Worryingly hot. So you are not the only one concerned about the ST16S battery / power draw. I think we should start a separate thread on the battery issue.

For now, I believe I have a defective ST16S. And I had might have work for it next week. This might be costing me money...

 

[arruntus]

You have not had a good day. Sorry to hear about the weather and the problems. It does sound like a bad battery. The charger should not get that hot. Can you check each of the cells with a volt meter?

I've already done that. They're well balanced and all over 4.28V. It's not much the difference but between the excess temperature and a new battery that begins to lose charge capacity so quickly......

A new battery of this type has to charge 4.35V per cell making a total of 17.4V. It only charged 17.12V. Although it may seem little these batteries degrade quickly..........

 

[arruntus]

@arruntus the H520 is starting to look like a bad purchase...

I checked the yaw stick in the hidden menu. Sure enough, it is not centered and is wandering in value even with stick input. Also, on full left and right it only gets about 60% across the screen, and it varies in value while holding the stick at full left or right.

I did a recalibration and it looked ok for a few movements, but then it started to do the same thing - off set center, poor range, and wandering values at any given fixed stick input.

So I've just contacted Vertigo Drones via their website to ask about getting a new ST16S.

@Steve Carr / @arruntus Also, my yuneec supplied power supply blew the other night, and it was linked to charging the ST16S through the drone battery base unit. With living in NZ, I just got on and bought a new power supply from a laptop shop that had the same output. I have had to charge the ST16S from a generic charger, but it gets VERY hot. Worryingly hot. So you are not the only one concerned about the ST16S battery / power draw. I think we should start a separate thread on the battery issue.

For now, I believe I have a defective ST16S. And I had might have work for it next week. This might be costing me money...

I agree with you on everything except that it's a bad buy. I have blind confidence that it will be a very good product. It happens in many new products. How many cars just out of the factory are developed and revised? It's the same here, and it's the same for all brands. That we have something in bad shape? It bothers us to have to change it, something similar happens to me with the camera slider but in this case is not important.

Having flown a long time with Pixhawk I have complete confidence in the system. And I can assure that in that system every time you change versions it's like playing Russian roulette. Users are the betatesters. I don't think that's the case here. Too bad they haven't chosen Ardupilot which I think is more powerful but the base certainly is the best there is.

 

[Steve Carr]

it is not centered and is wandering in value even with stick input.

That is a sure sign of oxidation. This seems to happen from the sticks being in storage and less of a problem when they are used often. It's a 2 minute fix. Just spray the base of the stick with Electrical Contact Cleaner (the type that is safe for plastic) while moving the stick in all directions. Then test it again and if it works correctly, re-calibrate. Most people who have had this problem have only had to clean the sticks once.

 

[journeyman]

I agree with you on everything except that it's a bad buy. I have blind confidence that it will be a very good product. It happens in many new products. How many cars just out of the factory are developed and revised? It's the same here, and it's the same for all brands. That we have something in bad shape? It bothers us to have to change it, something similar happens to me with the camera slider but in this case is not important.

Having flown a long time with Pixhawk I have complete confidence in the system. And I can assure that in that system every time you change versions it's like playing Russian roulette. Users are the betatesters. I don't think that's the case here. Too bad they haven't chosen Ardupilot which I think is more powerful but the base certainly is the best there is.

@arruntus fingers crossed you're right. I'll keep you posted on the ST16S. Hopefully I'll see some of that great Yuneec support I've read about

 

[journeyman]

That is a sure sign of oxidation. This seems to happen from the sticks being in storage and less of a problem when they are used often. It's a 2 minute fix. Just spray the base of the stick with Electrical Contact Cleaner (the type that is safe for plastic) while moving the stick in all directions. Then test it again and if it works correctly, re-calibrate. Most people who have had this problem have only had to clean the sticks once.

@Steve Carr would this work - CRC Co Contact Cleaner 500ml
Worried about doing something like that and invalidating the warranty.
But if you're right it could keep me flying...

 

[Steve Carr]

I have had to charge the ST16S from a generic charger, but it gets VERY hot. Worryingly hot.

That is definitely a concern. You need at least a 2 amp charger. A larger one would be better. If the charger is still getting hot then the battery is suspect. I did see a post where the ST16s was modified to use a standard connector so the battery could be changed in the field. Seems like a good idea.