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Interesting. In that menu are you able to move the indicator for J2 back to center with the scroll type buttons under the sticks? I have not seen any description of what they are for, but I imagine something like that perhaps. Trim buttons; EPA...?When the h520 is stationary in the air, it slowly yaws to the left.
When looking in the hidden menu of the St16s I see that with the sticks centered, the channel J2 corresponding to the yaw, is displaced.
Will the sticks be badly calibrated?
View attachment 7548
I'm experiencing the same problem. Angle mode. Solid GPS. Accelerometer and compass calibrated. But when sitting still in the air, it slowly yaws left.
Did anyone find a solution?
How do you check/calibrate the ST16S sticks?
Thanks in advance
Thanks for posting that information. Since it's also possible the stick may have oxidation causing an erratic output, where do you find the test screen to check all the controls? On the H, the sticks need to be checked prior to doing a calibration.P.D.I will publish it in the thread of basic procedures so that it doesn't get lost.
Thanks for posting that information. Since it's also possible the stick may have oxidation causing an erratic output, where do you find the test screen to check all the controls? On the H, the sticks need to be checked prior to doing a calibration.
Many of the ST16's supplied with the H had oxidized sticks on the first flight. Also, many of the replacement sticks had the same problem right off the shelf. That is exactly why it's important to verify the stick is good before calibrating. Obviously, calibrating a poorly functioning stick will yield a temporary fix, if at all.For now, being everything new, I don't think that oxidation will give us any problems , but later it could be.
I think the batteries only have a 30 day warranty, so if this is new you might want to call Yuneec immediately.I am now more concerned that one battery doesn't charge me 100%
I think the batteries only have a 30 day warranty, so if this is new you might want to call Yuneec immediately.
You have not had a good day. Sorry to hear about the weather and the problems. It does sound like a bad battery. The charger should not get that hot. Can you check each of the cells with a volt meter?This new one, not even a flight, I just loaded it to set it all right. I've started charging that battery and the ST16S at the same time. I detected that the transformer was heating a lot, almost burning to the touch. I don't know if it's normal. I'm surprised he gets so hot because otherwise his life will be too short. Then with the other battery I tried it for a while and it didn't get too hot, I have to do more tests but I'm afraid it might be defective, I don't know yet.
Unfortunately, the haulier besides bringing the H520 has also brought bad weather. Bad luck
You have not had a good day. Sorry to hear about the weather and the problems. It does sound like a bad battery. The charger should not get that hot. Can you check each of the cells with a volt meter?
@arruntus the H520 is starting to look like a bad purchase...
I checked the yaw stick in the hidden menu. Sure enough, it is not centered and is wandering in value even with stick input. Also, on full left and right it only gets about 60% across the screen, and it varies in value while holding the stick at full left or right.
I did a recalibration and it looked ok for a few movements, but then it started to do the same thing - off set center, poor range, and wandering values at any given fixed stick input.
So I've just contacted Vertigo Drones via their website to ask about getting a new ST16S.
@Steve Carr / @arruntus Also, my yuneec supplied power supply blew the other night, and it was linked to charging the ST16S through the drone battery base unit. With living in NZ, I just got on and bought a new power supply from a laptop shop that had the same output. I have had to charge the ST16S from a generic charger, but it gets VERY hot. Worryingly hot. So you are not the only one concerned about the ST16S battery / power draw. I think we should start a separate thread on the battery issue.
For now, I believe I have a defective ST16S. And I had might have work for it next week. This might be costing me money...
That is a sure sign of oxidation. This seems to happen from the sticks being in storage and less of a problem when they are used often. It's a 2 minute fix. Just spray the base of the stick with Electrical Contact Cleaner (the type that is safe for plastic) while moving the stick in all directions. Then test it again and if it works correctly, re-calibrate. Most people who have had this problem have only had to clean the sticks once.it is not centered and is wandering in value even with stick input.
I agree with you on everything except that it's a bad buy. I have blind confidence that it will be a very good product. It happens in many new products. How many cars just out of the factory are developed and revised? It's the same here, and it's the same for all brands. That we have something in bad shape? It bothers us to have to change it, something similar happens to me with the camera slider but in this case is not important.
Having flown a long time with Pixhawk I have complete confidence in the system. And I can assure that in that system every time you change versions it's like playing Russian roulette. Users are the betatesters. I don't think that's the case here. Too bad they haven't chosen Ardupilot which I think is more powerful but the base certainly is the best there is.
@Steve Carr would this work - CRC Co Contact Cleaner 500mlThat is a sure sign of oxidation. This seems to happen from the sticks being in storage and less of a problem when they are used often. It's a 2 minute fix. Just spray the base of the stick with Electrical Contact Cleaner (the type that is safe for plastic) while moving the stick in all directions. Then test it again and if it works correctly, re-calibrate. Most people who have had this problem have only had to clean the sticks once.
That is definitely a concern. You need at least a 2 amp charger. A larger one would be better. If the charger is still getting hot then the battery is suspect. I did see a post where the ST16s was modified to use a standard connector so the battery could be changed in the field. Seems like a good idea.I have had to charge the ST16S from a generic charger, but it gets VERY hot. Worryingly hot.