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Reached 1 mile with Build 822

Here’s 3 combination ideas in solving this.

1) Install a main Tri-color LED.
(unflashed and flashed to register the build parameters)

2) Re-flash H Plus, without the RS.
(register the build parameters)

3) Do both 1 and 2
 
Here’s 3 combination ideas in solving this.

1) Install a main Tri-color LED.
(unflashed and flashed to register the build parameters)

2) Re-flash H Plus, without the RS.
(register the build parameters)

3) Do both 1 and 2
Reflash my drone just had the white connector hanging loose under the cap.
 
Hello thanks for the feedback on build 822. Q. Can you change the still photo options on this build?
I have 822 and you can change the still photo options but I always get the the photos in 1280X720.
Am I doing something wrong or is it the build? Thanks!
 
Hello thanks for the feedback on build 822. Q. Can you change the still photo options on this build?
I have 822 and you can change the still photo options but I always get the the photos in 1280X720.
Am I doing something wrong or is it the build? Thanks!
You can change the size in the app under settings.
1280x720 sounds like the preview file on the remote Are you taking them from the SD card in camera?
 
Reflash my drone just had the white connector hanging loose under the cap.

First attempt: RS uninstalled.

I reflashed the build, and the “Ultrasonic Not Working” message disappeared during the first and second battery cycled flight, got the H Plus to height to make use of the OBS. Flew the H Plus towards a wall and OBS kicked in and halted the drone to fly forward.

On the third, and fourth battery cycle, the “Ultrasonic Not Working” message came back, I ignored it, replicated the same test method, and the H Plus kept moving towards the wall.

Second attempt: RS uninstalled.

With the batteries freshly charged, I rigged up a 5mm LED 2pin diode, and tapped into one of the open connection leads to trip the system. Replicated the same test, this time the error did not come back and the OBS is working flawlessly during power cycles. Problem solved.

Now purchasing a main multi tri-color LED to plug into the connector.
 
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You can change the size in the app under settings.
1280x720 sounds like the preview file on the remote Are you taking them from the SD card in camera?

I believe so. I only see the pics if the Drone is idling. May I ask how you would designate that the pics go to the ST16 so I can use the modes available for the the still pics?
 
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@RPR: One question: What program did you use to capture the FPV display on the ST16s?
I've tried some screen recording programs from Google Play store but none of them worked as they required the machine to be rooted (rooting the Android system, voids the controller warranty).
 
@RPR: One question: What program did you use to capture the FPV display on the ST16s?
I've tried some screen recording programs from Google Play store but none of them worked as they required the machine to be rooted (rooting the Android system, voids the controller warranty).

HD Game Capture, HD ezcap Video Capture, 1080P HDMI Recorder Amazon.com: HD Game Capture, HD ezcap Video Capture, 1080P HDMI Recorder into USB Disk for Xbox One / 360 PS4 PS3 WII: Computers & Accessories
 
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Actually had a thought about the RS.
Since the plugin connecter just hangs in there wouldn't it be possible to mount a micro switch on the outside on the drone to turn it on and off when needed?
 
Actually had a thought about the RS.
Since the plugin connecter just hangs in there wouldn't it be possible to mount a micro switch on the outside on the drone to turn it on and off when needed?

I would not add an inline kill switch if you are not able to assign its use in PX4, because you will create a “bias unknown” that can trigger a domino effect of problems. Or you have to reflash all the time, when you switch the trigger On and Off to be able to accept the new parameters in the build.
 
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I would not add an inline kill switch if you are not able to assign its use in PX4, because you will create a “bias unknown” that can trigger a domino effect of problems. Or you have to reflash all the time, when you switch the trigger On and Off to be able to accept the new parameters in the build.
Good point [emoji108]
 
I just shielded mine as well, unbelievable how much interference the RS module emits.

Thanks for the tip.
 
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I just shielded mine as well, unbelievable how much interference the RS module emits.

Thanks for the tip.

Can you guys post a pick or a description of this?

I have some copper tape left over from a guitar rebuild. I replaced the pots and pickups....shielded the cavities with copper tape.
 
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I didn't have any cobber tape lying around. So just used some chocolate wrap [emoji23] it was available and you get a little joy out of it.

Other than that same installation as RPR.

Did a phone test just before assembly and it completely blocked the signal so should be good enough for this. 1555888220469.jpeg
 
I didn't have any cobber tape lying around. So just used some chocolate wrap [emoji23] it was available and you get a little joy out of it.

Other than that same installation as RPR.

Did a phone test just before assembly and it completely blocked the signal so should be good enough for this. View attachment 16074

Hahaha... Now that’s literally SWEET! (Job)
 

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