Hello Fellow Yuneec Pilot!
Join our free Yuneec community and remove this annoying banner!
Sign up

I have flipped my H on landing 3 times now. ENOUGH!

I do believe it is operator error on my part because, regardless of the various reasons that it happens, I need to operate it in a way to overcome the tipover. I just know that landing in a different spot (different altitude) and propwash are combining to make it more likely to tip somehow.
When it happened to me many times over, I believed it was an issue with the H or something to do with the firmware. I was **** bent on proving it was due to that. Being blind to the fact it could have been me I could only believed it was the H. NOPE......user error. Took me a month with multiple tests to recreate what had happened and find the solution. What worked for me was to swap the control sticks from left to right control. I also bought the prop guard kit from Yuneec just in-case it happened again. For the $15 investment, it's worth it.
 
How do they attach? Can they be taken off and put back on easily every day?
 
Some might argue against this but I'll suggest using at least one full battery, two would be better, to practice landings. Take off, go up about 10', and practice a straight down descent to about 1'-2' off the ground. Hover in place for a few moments to get the "feel" of the controls. Do not touch down yet. Repeat this process over and over until battery voltage falls to 15V and then land. I say 15V because it leaves you with plenty of remaining battery if you have to abort the actual landing and try again.

Never commit to a landing, always be prepared to abort and try again if the last attempt looked or "felt" bad. Leaving a voltage "reserve" in your battery assures you have enough battery left to abort one or more landings if needed to make a good one. Remember, take offs are optional, landings are mandatory. Practice makes perfect.

Oh, if breaking a prop or three voids making "a profit" you need to revise you rate structure. A lot!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ThunderChicken
I found this clip very interesting. The pilot is simply using the kill button a couple of feet above the ground and the H lands itself and shuts down. I know this worked really well with the Q500 because I used that method dozens of times.

 
Last edited:
I found this clip very interesting. I don't know if it will show on this forum, but the pilot is simply using the kill button a couple of feet above the ground and the H lands itself and shuts down. I know this worked really well with the Q500 because I used that method dozens of times.

You had suggested that to me when we were trying to resolve my user error flipping and it worked quite well.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Greetings!

I don't see anything in the original post to suggest the following may be at play in this particular situation, but a reminder just as well... As stated in past threads, don't forget environmental factors unless completely ruled out.

I was once practicing some maneuvers above our "country" driveway, meaning dirt/gravel road. All was going well, until the landing. I noticed the motors were not idling down and was quick to lift back off before tip over. Decided to try again but this time instead of the driveway, a few feet to the side in the grass. No issues.

Being a troubleshooter by trade, I had to know it if was a fluke and thus repeated my flight and landing to the original spot, only a slightly different spot due to a perceived incline or decline from the previous landing location. Same thing happened. This time I was ready and had my finger on the motor shut-off button to depress immediately. (I felt the need to test this technique, not having the need to do so previously.) The motors did not idle down once again, but the motor shut-off did it's job. Started up again, landed in grass; no incident.

Then came the head slap moment: Our electrical feed for the cabin runs along the driveway, on the opposite side of where the successful grass landings were executed. It has been enough years that the memory isn't positive that portion of the driveway actually has the cables closer to the center crown, given the excavating and landscaping that has happened since.

Bottom line: I can't rule out electrical interference, so... anytime I am "playing in the driveway" I have to be cognizant of where I am at!

Happy flying!

Jeff
 
The design of the "dogs" in the landing gear is great reason not to cut the motors before the H is on the ground. Doing that will have you buying landing gear retract mechanisms on a regular basis. Much better to learn how to land instead of arrive. There's just no reason to handicap yourself.
 
I found this clip very interesting. The pilot is simply using the kill button a couple of feet above the ground and the H lands itself and shuts down. I know this worked really well with the Q500 because I used that method dozens of times.


Never thought about it, but I can now make sense of it; the telemetry data shows that the Start/stop button actually works on Channel0 which is the same for throttle.

Pushing the throttle all the way down (in rabbit mode) logs a minimum value of 676.0 (center position being 2048.0), while pushing the Start/stop button will log a value of 0.0 indeed "pushing" the Throttle to even lower than possible with the stick. However if you do it a bit too high you will end up killing the engines while still in the air.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steve Carr
One thing I am wondering is when people are "releasing" the throttle are they just letting go or are they easing it back to center? I have noticed if you let go the throttle stick springs up and could move past center and cause the H to power up a little again. As skeet said " The H was already on the ground with me pushing the red button and the motors momentarily fluttered and sped up causing the tip overs"
...

I'm glad you brought this up! @Shadowolf This was something I wanted to discuss quite some time ago and completely forgot about it.

Releasing the sticks is something a lot of us will not even think about (I know I didn't before), but I've come to understand that its important to be aware of it, specially during landing!

If you release the stick after landing there's a big chance that the props will start revving up, and there's a big possibility that this will catch you off guard since a lot of us tend to "ease off" after landing.

Any time the aircraft is on the ground and the props are not idle they are producing thrust and autopilot is engaged and ready to react, ergo, the aircraft is very unstable.

If this happens and you are unaware of it then things can go very bad very fast!

Again I've prepared a video regarding this topic using some real-life footage as example. Plase excuse the raw editing I just put everything together in a few hours, maybe later I will edit everything in a more fashionable manner.


Greetings!
 
This is something I've never liked about the spring loaded center stick, but I started in multirotors when the operator had low stick position as idle and everything above that point a progressive increase in power. Back then we set up the ESC's where center stick, or close to it, equated to "hover". Of course that was predicated upon the weight of the aircraft. A decently set up system would have a light aircraft hover at a bit less than half throttle and a heavy aircraft would hover at a bit more than half throttle. Although not as automated as a spring loaded center stick, operators had greater control flexibility over throttle.

With the introduction of the spring centered throttle stick, center position is a power level that equates to putting the aircraft in a hover. Think about it for a moment and you'll realize that when flying, any time you leave the stick at center position, or "hands off", the H will maintain altitude and hover. Pull back to descend, push up to climb. Once the H is landed by pulling back the throttle, releasing pressure to allow the stick to center again puts the H in a hover power setting, but with the landing gear touching the ground. As far as the H knows, it is still flying and maintaining altitude. Until the throttle stick is held back long enough to reduce motor speed to idle the system is still generating enough thrust for the aircraft to hover. Any amount of forward stick during this time is a climb command. Any amount of pitch, roll, or yaw stick displacement is telling the H to move in the direction of stick displacement. Think about when your H when it is in a hover without moving the throttle stick forward. If you move any of the directional sticks the H will move in the direction of stick displacement with the throttle stick centered.

This is why I believe many have landing roll over problems. They don't yet understand their systems and may think the H knows when it is on the ground. I don't believe it does, recognizing only a throttle position has been established that is designed to accomplish a specific task (altitude hold), which is why it has the 3 second throttle hold down requirement to further reduce motor speed to idle and to disengage the auto pilot. Until the motors have been reduced to idle the auto pilot is still engaged and will continue to respond to stick displacement. It bears mentioning that after reducing the motors to idle speed, pushing the stick above the middle position not only increases motor speed but also engages the auto pilot again. It's ready to fly until the disarm/stop button has been depressed and held down long enough for the motors to stop.
 
^^ You're spot on with the explanation Pat. I remember the first few times I flew my H, I couldn't get my head around the throttle stick position resting at centre position. That was the first time I had ever flown with a system like that. Even after a year of flying the H, it still goes against my instincts. While I enjoy flying the H, I still love flying my other Multi's and flying with a 'proper' throttle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PatR
That is definitely not the issue for me. I always hold the throttle all the way down while I press the arm button and until the props stop. Just a habit.
 
I know I'm late to the party, but I have a couple of suggestive points.

1) Turtle mode, this slows down the airframe response, which slows down the motor response. Which in turn will decrease the tendency to roll forward/backward/left/right.

2) As soon as your TH touches ground hold the throttle stick all the way down and the red button (I know I saw you already do this).

3) check all of the switches, make sure they are all centered before attempting a landing.

4) which ever way the airframe is tipping, give opposite input with the right stick (while holding the throttle and red button down), this will cause the airframe to right itself. Don't slam the opposite stick gently apply it.

5) If it starts to tip, bail on the landing, throttle out and try again. When you do this make sure you apply opposite roll so your airframe doesn't fly off in the direction it was trying to tip. Also, let go of the red button.

6) let RTH/RTL do its job (unless you are trying to land somewhere you didn't take off from). Get close to your landing area and flip the RTH switch to force a landing. With this method you also need to go into the controller settings and set your return altitude so the TH doesn't try to climb to sixty to eighty-five feet.

6) prop guards (yes, I know they were already mentioned).

7) Practice

8) Purchase a landing pad, Hoodman (look them up) has a very good weighted series which can take a prop impact. I've tipped over on the landing pad and it saved my props. Slighty pricey, but it's cheaper than replacing 20 sets of props.

9) Lastly, check the ST16 calibration. If you have yaw or roll out of sync, on landing it will be exaggerated. ST16 Requires Calibration ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steve Carr
I have a question about the ST16 calibration. Could you elaborate on that point? Are you talking about the "curves" or something?
 
Once making the touchdown approach keep your throttle stick all the way down as well as turttle mode activated .

Do not release the throttle from all the way down until the motors Reduce speed to idle . then kill the engines .
 
I have a question about the ST16 calibration. Could you elaborate on that point? Are you talking about the "curves" or something?

Look at the post directly above yours. Point #9, in the red text, it says "ST16 Requires Calibration" If you click on that it will take you to the link that explains it.

For the curves, you can find info here.

Please keep in mind that these are two individually separate things.
 

New Posts

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
20,980
Messages
241,853
Members
27,401
Latest member
zuhoouk