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Newbie, here… needs guidance, please

FLDirector19

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Thank you in advance, to anyone interested in helping with my newly purchased used H920+.

My situation is this:
I recently purchased a used (“only flown ten times”) H920+.
After verifying that all batteries were charged, I put two of them in the H920+.
I turned on the ST16, then the H920.
I went into ’system settings’ and there was an aircraft model SR24_ (etc). Knowing I have a ST16, I looked up online and read that ‘if all else fails, do a factory reset,’ which I did (guided by a YouTube video by [folei22].)
My ST16 now shows (Not Connected) for both model & camera. The YouTube video said that if it doesn’t appear, tilt the H920+ a few times, then hit <refresh>. I did this, however, I noticed the status light on the H920 was very dimly lit.

Any ideas as to what I did incorrectly? How do I get an ST16_ model number.

Sorry, but the skimpy instructions I received with the package, was very little help.

Thank,
Tom
 
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h-elsner

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Simply spoken all digital wireless connections have the same problem, both need to know each other and have to negotiate modalities of the connection (addresses, channels, kind of encryption, passwords and so on). Basics like transmission medium, frequencies and protocol are definded by hardware in use.

For H920 we hve two different connections:
1. RC connection 2.4GHz, ZigBee protocol.
2. Camera Wifi connection, 5GHz band.

Both connections have to negotiate their modalities to know aech other. We call this 'bindig', binding procedure.
What you have seen was the name of the receiver in the drone: SR24, followed by a unique number so that the ST16 knows his partner in the air. I guess binding was done. But now due to factory reset als this "knowledge" is lost. By the way, I hate this idea to do a factory reset all the time when this go wrong. First should be to check what was wrong and solve the problem. Factory reset is the very last action if nothing helps. But then we should know we have an naked system and have to rebuild all.

So, what to do?
First step is to create a new model from scratch. Give it a name like MyBigDrone or whatever you want.
Then do the whole binding procedure for drone and camera as described in the manual.

From my point of view the user manual is the best source, YouTube videos may be correct or may not, an insecure source.

br HE
 
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Thank you in advance, to anyone interested in helping with my newly purchased used H920+.

My situation is this:
I recently purchased a used (“only flown ten times”) H920+.
After verifying that all batteries were charged, I put two of them in the H920+.
I turned on the ST16, then the H920.
I went into ’system settings’ and there was an aircraft model SR24_ (etc). Knowing I have a ST16, I looked up online and read that ‘if all else fails, do a factory reset,’ which I did (guided by a YouTube video by [folei22].)
My ST16 now shows (Not Connected) for both model & camera. The YouTube video said that if it doesn’t appear, tilt the H920+ a few times, then hit <refresh>. I did this, however, I noticed the status light on the H920 was very dimly lit.

Any ideas as to what I did incorrectly? How do I get an ST16_ model number.

Sorry, but the skimpy instructions I received with the package, was very little help.

Thank,
Tom
Welcome to our forum Tom, happy place to be
 

DoomMeister

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The H920+ with CGO4 and the Typhoon H with CGO3+ both use the ST16 for their ground station so the binding procedure is close to identical. The differences are the 920 model type when creating a new model, selecting the CGO4 camera type, and the camera SSID of YUN_xxxxxx in the binding menu.

This video is for the Typhoon H, but you will need to substitute the above information in the appropriate places while creating a new model and binding to it.

If you have further questions feel free to ask.

Edited post to remove erroneous information about the location of the Status LED. 4/22/22
 
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FLDirector19

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Simply spoken all digital wireless connections have the same problem, both need to know each other and have to negotiate modalities of the connection (addresses, channels, kind of encryption, passwords and so on). Basics like transmission medium, frequencies and protocol are definded by hardware in use.

For H920 we hve two different connections:
1. RC connection 2.4GHz, ZigBee protocol.
2. Camera Wifi connection, 5GHz band.

Both connections have to negotiate their modalities to know aech other. We call this 'bindig', binding procedure.
What you have seen was the name of the receiver in the drone: SR24, followed by a unique number so that the ST16 knows his partner in the air. I guess binding was done. But now due to factory reset als this "knowledge" is lost. By the way, I hate this idea to do a factory reset all the time when this go wrong. First should be to check what was wrong and solve the problem. Factory reset is the very last action if nothing helps. But then we should know we have an naked system and have to rebuild all.

So, what to do?
First step is to create a new model from scratch. Give it a name like MyBigDrone or whatever you want.
Then do the whole binding procedure for drone and camera as described in the manual.

From my point of view the user manual is the best source, YouTube videos may be correct or may not, an insecure source.

br HE
Thank you for your reply. I’ll try as you suggest.
Any ideas as to why the LED is dim & non responsive to any controller commands?
 

h-elsner

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What LED do you mean and what do you see as dimmed? As long as the receiver in the drone is not bound with ST16 no command will be reach the drone.

BR HE
 
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FLDirector19

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What LED do you mean and what do you see as dimmed? As long as the receiver in the drone is not bound with ST16 no command will be reach the drone.

BR HE
There is a small LED on the battery compartment door… isn’t this the “status” LED?
 

DoomMeister

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25DEF221-BB30-4A09-82B3-CB501BDBB987.jpeg
Isn’t this the status LED for the 920+?
 

FLDirector19

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View attachment 27915
Isn’t this the status LED for the 920+?
I thought so, then again I thought the red motor arms were the front, making the LED & battery compartment in the rear of the aircraft.

Any thoughts as to why this LED is dim and not bright?
 

WTFDproject

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I went into ’system settings’ and there was an aircraft model SR24_ (etc). Knowing I have a ST16, I looked up online and read that ‘if all else fails, do a factory reset,’ which I did (guided by a YouTube video by [folei22].)
My ST16 now shows (Not Connected) for both model & camera. The YouTube video said that if it doesn’t appear, tilt the H920+ a few times, then hit <refresh>. I did this, however, I noticed the status light on the H920 was very dimly lit.

Any ideas as to what I did incorrectly? How do I get an ST16_ model number.

Sorry, but the skimpy instructions I received with the package, was very little help.

Thank,
Tom
The water is a little muddy here. Since I don't have an H920Plus, I'm making assumptions based on similar models. Not the least of which assumptions is that the H920plus uses an original ST16 controller, not an ST16S. With that said;

First thing; Yes. The status light is on the rear and is mounted on the battery door. Long story made short, let's not worry about that right now.

Second thing. You stated:
"I went into ’system settings’ and there was an aircraft model SR24_ (etc). Knowing I have a ST16, I looked up online and read that ‘if all else fails, do a factory reset,’ which I did (guided by a YouTube video..."
Seeing "SR24_xxxx" is normal at that point if the drone is already properly bound. But your description went straight into factory reset from there, using the phrase "if all else fails".
So what happened between "normal" and "last resort"?

Third:
"My ST16 now shows (Not Connected) for both model & camera."
Did you create a new Model for the H920Plus and select it on the model screen after the reset?
Did the SR24_xxxxx show up under the "Not connected" in the "Model" column when you hit "refresh" on the binding screen>

Fourth:
"I did this, however, I noticed the status light on the H920 was very dimly lit."
Doing a factory reset on the controller has nothing to do with how bright the LED on the drone is (on other models). So;
Are you certain the LED was at normal brightness before the Reset?
If so, did anything happen (other than factory reset of the controller) between the last time it was at normal brightness and the first time it was not?
You mentioned the status LED was dim. But; What color is it? Is it steady? Is it flashing? If it is flashing, what is the pattern of the flashing?
 

Yuneec Skins

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View attachment 27915
Isn’t this the status LED for the 920+?
The Battery Compartment with the Status LED is on the Rear of the H920/H920-Plus, and the GPS Towr is on the Front, the Camera is Facing Backwards in this Photo, most likely the Gimbal is installed Backward...
 
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DoomMeister

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Thanks to all who got me pointed in the right direction. So I will edit my post to reflect that.
 

FLDirector19

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The water is a little muddy here. Since I don't have an H920Plus, I'm making assumptions based on similar models. Not the least of which assumptions is that the H920plus uses an original ST16 controller, not an ST16S. With that said;

First thing; Yes. The status light is on the rear and is mounted on the battery door. Long story made short, let's not worry about that right now.

Second thing. You stated:
"I went into ’system settings’ and there was an aircraft model SR24_ (etc). Knowing I have a ST16, I looked up online and read that ‘if all else fails, do a factory reset,’ which I did (guided by a YouTube video..."
Seeing "SR24_xxxx" is normal at that point if the drone is already properly bound. But your description went straight into factory reset from there, using the phrase "if all else fails".
So what happened between "normal" and "last resort"?

Third:
"My ST16 now shows (Not Connected) for both model & camera."
Did you create a new Model for the H920Plus and select it on the model screen after the reset?
Did the SR24_xxxxx show up under the "Not connected" in the "Model" column when you hit "refresh" on the binding screen>

Fourth:
"I did this, however, I noticed the status light on the H920 was very dimly lit."
Doing a factory reset on the controller has nothing to do with how bright the LED on the drone is (on other models). So;
Are you certain the LED was at normal brightness before the Reset?
If so, did anything happen (other than factory reset of the controller) between the last time it was at normal brightness and the first time it was not?
You mentioned the status LED was dim. But; What color is it? Is it steady? Is it flashing? If it is flashing, what is the pattern of the flashing?
Thank you for your reply!
1) I thought so.
2) Normal amounted to seeing the (now realized) correct ‘model’ & ‘camera’. I thought it was an error and went looking for YouTube videos to help me. I panicked & went to ‘reset’ instead of posting here.
3) I did create a new model & ‘refresh’, however, the ST24_ never showed up under model.
4) Once I put three fully charged batteries into the H920+, turned on the ST16 & waited for the startup to complete, I switched on the H920+. There was never a time when the LED was bright. The dim color appeared to be a pin head size red, blue & green, never flashing, or pulsing.

What should I check on the H920+ ( I realize I have two distinct issues.)
A) the LED brightness & B) Getting the model & camera correct on the ST16, so I can bind the two.
Correct?
 
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DoomMeister

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Did you create a new model based on the 920 and try to bind to it?

The SR24_xxxxxx is what you will look for in the left column of the binding screen when you select Refresh there. The ST24 is the ground station used with the H920 and not the 920+.

You may have to remove the top cover of the 920+ and insure the Status LED cable is fully seated at the main board. @Yuneec Newbe found one of his completely unplugged.
 
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WTFDproject

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3) I did create a new model & ‘refresh’, however, the ST24_ never showed up under model.
"create" and "refresh" could be seen as Steps one and four of four "high-level" Steps. You've already confirmed Steps one and four. Step three I'm pretty sure you already know about.
Step 2 is the one of interest in this post, mainly just to confirm it was done.
1.) Create the new Model on the Model screen.
2.) SELECT the new model. It's not automatically selected. You have to go back to the Model screen and tap the new model to ensure there is a blue box around it.
3.) Tilt the drone forward a couple of times to get the orange flashing status light. (Not sure how this will look given the issue with the light.)
4.) Tap the "refresh" icon on the binding screen.

Those are just four of the higher-level steps/indications involved in the binding sequence. There is an incredible amount of detail in the process that can provide diagnostic information. I don't have an H920Plus for comparison, but I suspect the process is similar to the binding process of the original Typhoon H. You may want to look at the Binding Verification diagnostic process for the Typhoon H (linked below). The indications for the drone part will need to be interpreted for the differences in the actual drones. But the idea is to do each step. It does a lot of "preps" at the front of the guidance, then falls into a routine of stating a step then verifying the exact result of the step. When something does not match the expected result, STOP and report that step back to the forum, including what you actually saw. If the H920Plus reality is close enough to a Typhoon H, we may be able to find the problem. And keep in mind I don't know what I'm talking about in the similarities between the two models. If the guidance does not seem applicable, don't use it.

Typhoon H Binding Verification
 
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Yuneec Newbe

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Good Morning, I have my wifi card for the ST16 Controller. The aircraft flew fine 2 weeks ago with my spare ST16. No problems except the time given from the *#%@%# battery life.
 
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DoomMeister

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Good Morning, I have my wifi card for the ST16 Controller. The aircraft flew fine 2 weeks ago with my spare ST16. No problems except the time given from the *#%@%# battery life.
Do you have instructions for changing out the WiFi card? I think I had sent a link to a video of the process a few weeks ago.
 

Yuneec Newbe

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Good Morning DoomMeister,
I have instructions but have not devoted the time to complete the repair. I have a working controller and the one that failed is put away. Just purchased another Typhoon H + for the one that decided to fly away. The ST 16 Has 2 antenna's. I am going to contact Yuneec Skins and see if their is an upgrade to the three. Also the intel obstacle avoidance is non functional.
 

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