New firmware !
- Thread starter Daemon1
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Drifting problems are usually corrected by proper calibration. Accelerometer completed on a completely flat surface, not outside if windy. Same with Gimbal. When doing the GPS, it is suggested to remove the Gimbal to reduce the stress on the Gimbal internals. You can re-attach it when your completed with the calibration.
First, before calibrating the GPS, turn on your H (power ONLY, Not the props) and let it sit for 12.5 minutes to ensure it has locked onto as many Satellites as possible. This is especially important if this is the first time you have used the H or have installed a new GPS card.
Calibrate the GPS outside, at lease 25 feet from any metal. Remove your watch, keys, key fobs, and anything else metal in your pockets. Do not do this over concrete as there is metal rebar in the concrete. Also keep your ST16 controller away from the H while calibrating.
Give it a short hover test, fly it back and forth, side to side, and hover for 10-20 seconds, all at least 10-15 feet up. If there is still a slight curve at the end of each movement or any drifting, re-calibrate again as sometimes it will take 2-3 time for it to lock in.
You should then have a solid H after that. If you still have problems, contact Yuneec, you may have a bad GPS card. Good Luck and Happy Flying.
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I still say B.S. on this. It does not in no way take 12.5 minutes to get a good GPS lock. There would be nobody flying if that was the case. Garbage information is whats in that video
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If you had run your telemetry files through the program I told you to use you would see after a short time it is acceptable to fly. Your video would have me dragging along a suitcase full of spare batteries waiting for the 12.5 minutes to go by before I could take off. B.S. I say
A few seconds in it changes from dark red to light red to light green....take off time
You can sit on the ground till the cows come home, it really don't matter to me
A few seconds in it changes from dark red to light red to light green....take off time
You can sit on the ground till the cows come home, it really don't matter to me
Hey I'm still trying to get used to the other stuff that they just released. Wonder how long it will take us to get acquainted with all this.
I agree, this makes no sense at all. Perhaps their intention was to add the redundancy for short distance flights?
Does Yuneec Engineering know something we don't, as in, have their tests shown that their may be a problem with loss of 2.4 ghz signal in the flight controller?
Yuneec needs to provide an explanation of why this feature is critical enough to add it to an update while not addressing the widespread drifting issue.
Okay, maybe I am getting my hopes up, but after the update when you go to the Camera Select screen, it now has C-GO4 in the list of cameras.....
After updating, I performed a gimbal calibration and now for some reason the gimbal is centering slightly to the left.
It allows me to manually twist it back to center, but after calibrating again, it goes back to centering to the left.
I tried powering down and back on, but when I do it centers a little to the right instead.
It allows me to manually twist it back to center, but after calibrating again, it goes back to centering to the left.
I tried powering down and back on, but when I do it centers a little to the right instead.
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Good points.
I would add also that considering diversity as a range improvement solution isn't a good understanding of it. Diversity does not increase the range, but the robustness of the link, especially at range limits. It is meant to help keep a good signal polarisation, mainly with linear polarised antennas. That's true especially on fixed wings. When the plane banks the signal weakens by few dB, which means halving the power.
I hope then that at Yuneec they really know what they are doing, because charging the video link, which probably is already using a great portion of its bandwidth, for control continue to sound strange to me. Probably I'm missing something.
Ric
P.s.: and that seem even not a diversity, but a band swap.
The 12.5 minute GPS lock is only if you install a new GPS card. It is not necessary for each flight. When a GPS card is new or has sat for an extended period of time it may not have an updated register, this is when I suggest this action to add that extra step ensuring you have plenty of locked satellites for calibration. All of mine fly solid after doing this. If you are having the problems described, it is your choice to keep doing what you are doing now. "Don't expect different results if you are not willing to do something different".
No. Just sitting on the ground powered up but with motors off for 12+ minutes uses very little battery.
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Really???? Are you sure??? I have been flying lipo batteries for over three years, they drain very fast in my experience Sir. You really need to educate yourself before posting.
3-5 minutes is acceptable but 12 -13 minutes ....pack up and go home
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according what i ve read about that,it allows the drone to fly with the 5.8ghz network in case it lose 2.4ghz connection or something like that.
Letting the H sit with the power on and motors off for 12-13 minutes uses little if any power. It is very easy to check yourself. Turn it on and let it sit there for the 12.5 minutes while at home and monitor the power level. It only takes one time to verify it.
Yes, try it. The motors draw orders of magnitude more power from the batteries than the computers and telemetry.
David it's possible you need to recalibrate the st16 hardware. If it's always the same position it may mean the controllers position sensor is slightly off and calibrating that is likly to fix the position issue.
Also I don't think it's a good idea to move that gimble around by hand. It could create slop in the stepper motor they use. I would avoid that. Try the st16 hardware Calibrations. There is a few mentions of it on the forums here on how to access it. But I'm on an iPhone an don't like searching on it. Also quick way to check the position sensors on the st16 is to double tap the battery level on the top left of the green and it will show you the position of each sensor realtime. If you don't know what each position should be don't make assumptions something is wrong. Play with the controls positions so you can learn what normal looks like
I installed the new firmware no problems. But i never had any problems before.
The only small problem i still have (But i think it is related to the Europe version having much lower power on the ST16) is losing wifi connection while raising the landing gear on takeoff.
I still have it but not so frequently as before. I used 4 lipos today and had it once.
Marnix
