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Problem with h520 yaw

@arruntus fingers crossed you're right. I'll keep you posted on the ST16S. Hopefully I'll see some of that great Yuneec support I've read about :)

Support is something I've always heard very good things about Yuneec. I don't think it's gonna change now that we're here :)

I've created a new thread on the subject of battery and charger. Hopefully we'll all come up with something clean.

@|journeyman this one for example https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Plastic-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B000BXKZVA
 
@Steve Carr would this work - CRC Co Contact Cleaner 500ml
Worried about doing something like that and invalidating the warranty.
But if you're right it could keep me flying...
Yes. Several people have used the CRC with good results. I've been using the WD40 Contact cleaner which is basically the same. It's fast and it dries quickly and leaves no residue. The trick is to keep the stick moving while using the cleaner.

Note.....not WD40 penetrating oil.
 
That is definitely a concern. You need at least a 2 amp charger. A larger one would be better. If the charger is still getting hot then the battery is suspect. I did see a post where the ST16s was modified to use a standard connector so the battery could be changed in the field. Seems like a good idea.

Unfortunately, few chargers support charging LiHV batteries. That's a problem when you already have a lot of purchased material. But it is an option, yes. I have already bought connectors to make adapters.
 
Unfortunately, few chargers support charging LiHV batteries. That's a problem when you already have a lot of purchased material. But it is an option, yes. I have already bought connectors to make adapters.
The ST16 uses a LI-Ion battery does it not? So no special charger for that.
 
Yes. Several people have used the CRC with good results. I've been using the WD40 Contact cleaner which is basically the same. It's fast and it dries quickly and leave no residue. The trick is to keep the stick moving while using the cleaner.

Note.....not WD40 penetrating oil.

I use one from another lesser known brand but the same thing. Contact cleaner that leaves no residue. I use it to clean the engines and it's a way to really extend their life.

Yes transmitter battery is Li-ON but the problem is that the connector is not standard.
 
My supplier is going to change the stick of the St16s

So we assume that after recalibration the problem was still present, right?

In my case it happens with a slider but only in the end and for now I do not give it importance, if it goes further then I will have to go through the same procedure.
 

Terrence is very brave. A product that hasn't caught any dust.... :rolleyes:

Last night while we were here chatting I set to charge the transmitter with a 2A mobile phone charger and I really don't know how long it took but 100% charged before I went to sleep. It's supposed to take five hours, I'll take a good look next time.

We still don't have the possibility to buy spare batteries for the ST16 (I haven't seen them anywhere at the moment) so I'm more of trying to make my own adaptor before I do what Terrence did, open the original one.
 

Terrence is very brave. A product that hasn't caught any dust.... :rolleyes:

Last night while we were here chatting I set to charge the transmitter with a 2A mobile phone charger and I really don't know how long it took but 100% charged before I went to sleep. It's supposed to take five hours, I'll take a good look next time.

We still don't have the possibility to buy spare batteries for the ST16 (I haven't seen them anywhere at the moment) so I'm more of trying to make my own adaptor before I do what Terrence did, open the original one.

Earlier I said that I had not seen battery replacements for the ST16S and they are beginning to show, an example

YUNEEC ST16 LIPO AKKU 1S 8700 mAh
 
Will start the contact cleaner soon. Not sure how much to use or how best to get it beneath the joystick, but will just use the thin nozzle to get some around the base of the stick and keep moving it...
Here goes
 
Early signs are good. Will take it out for a flight shortly and recheck channels later today.
If any signs of degradation, then guessing it might be a dodgy stick. If it still looks good on the channels then I might hold off on requesting any replacement.
Down side is, visually trying to center the back analogue sliders is nigh on impossible. So the manual camera control means I can't get 0 degree pitch any more... Stops at 3 degrees. But that's minor in comparison to the yaw issue. So feeling better so far. Here's hoping it stays fixed.
Thanks again for the advice and all the help. You guys are awesome. Thank you!
 
I can't get 0 degree pitch any more... Stops at 3 degrees
The ST16s calibration should fix that.
Not sure how much to use or how best to get it beneath the joystick
The first time I tried it was on an ST10 which uses the same stick. I opened up the case to spray the stick. I found later it works to just spray around the base of the stick. Some of the spray will penetrate into the potentiometer to get it clean.
 
Early signs are good. Will take it out for a flight shortly and recheck channels later today.
If any signs of degradation, then guessing it might be a dodgy stick. If it still looks good on the channels then I might hold off on requesting any replacement.
Down side is, visually trying to center the back analogue sliders is nigh on impossible. So the manual camera control means I can't get 0 degree pitch any more... Stops at 3 degrees. But that's minor in comparison to the yaw issue. So feeling better so far. Here's hoping it stays fixed.
Thanks again for the advice and all the help. You guys are awesome. Thank you!

Good news, now fly and if the problem comes back slightly apply again product to see if it is finished solving.

As soon as I read the calibration and the rear slider for the camera, I started laughing. You don't know how many times i run the calibration until know that all the sliders have to be left in the center before the calibration is finished. The front one is easy because you physically find the center.

As for the two of the back side, you have to do it by eye and guided by the plastic mark and it costs a lot to do it well. In the end, I get the same thing 3 or 4 degrees between doing the calibration and I think it's something else about the controls. That kind of controls, in all the transmitters I have used, the extremes give some problem of this kind but nothing of importance.

Not having to send something to the service technician to repair is always good news :)
 
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Well, I"m trying to stay optimistic, but finding it hard...

Went out to test the H520 and see if the yaw had been fixed, and before I could even start the motors, the legs retracted. Lowered the drone onto the E90 on the floor. And nothing I can do to get the legs back down.

The switch on the top does nothing.

Tried powering everything on and off. Replaced the battery. Etc. But the drone is now stuck on its back with its legs stuck out.

I'll start a new thread for that one. Really getting sick of this.

Could the use of the Contact Cleaner cause trouble with other switches internally? It's been about 3 hours since I did the spray.

Created a another ticket with Yuneec (US) and Vertigo Drones (purchased from) but no feedback from either so far.

So now it's a bloody big expensive paperweight.
 
before I could even start the motors, the legs retracted. Lowered the drone onto the E90 on the floor.
Ouch.......check the operation of the stick on the ST16 in the channel menu and see if it is working properly. I have not heard of anyone having any issues when cleaning the sticks. That is what the cleaner is made for and it doesn't affect plastic.
 

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