Click all the i on right on every column and it will give you an explanation of the block. I saw GPS issues as well in the GPS block.Saw the 5 compass errors which I fully expected to see during a fly away, but did not see that last part. Thanks!
Click all the i on right on every column and it will give you an explanation of the block. I saw GPS issues as well in the GPS block.Saw the 5 compass errors which I fully expected to see during a fly away, but did not see that last part. Thanks!
Saw the 5 compass errors which I fully expected to see during a fly away, but did not see that last part. Thanks!
@CAPTAINDRONE Wow man, I totally feel for you here. Some years back when I was experiencing problems with some of my homebuilds using the DJI Naza-M v.1 FC, flyaways were almost a given. A lot of my buds here in Spain either lost their vehicles outright or they were severely damaged. We struggled for a long time trying to figure out what event or combination of events was causing this, and the message boards at various forums (RC Groups especially) were literally on fire with frustrated RC pilots. We never really figured out the ultimate cause, and our begs and pleas for assistance from the a-holes at DJI were met with complete silence. When Naza-M v.2 came out things seemed to really improve, but the flyaways were still occurring frequently enough for a lot of us hobbyists to start looking elsewhere for "reliable" FC's. I for one went the ArduCopter (Pixhawk) route.
I spent a lot of time with a lot of people (including brick and mortar hobby suppliers here) developing protocols to recover and regain control when experiencing DJI FC malfunctions and flyaways. What we came up with was that first and foremost, the RC pilot had to learn to master his vehicle in total Manual mode, meaning no GPS nor gyro stabilization. With the Naza-M and a good Tx (my Taranis comes to mind ;-) ) you could program a 3-position switch to go from GPS, Atti, Manual modes and then you were all set. In almost all instances flipping your switch to Manual while the vehicle was having a "FC moment" almost always saved the aircraft IF one had the proper altitude to do so.
What really pisses me off about the TH is there literally is no way to do this. Taking the vehicle out of GPS mode while in flight does NOT infer manual mode. It's essentially the DJI equivalent of ATTI mode (I think), but does not relinquish 6-axis control to the pilot. So in a sense we're f**ked because since there is no true Manual Mode available for this aircraft, it therefore becomes a relative crapshoot if one can regain control or not. Having said that, Manual mode requires rather advanced flying skills and experience that I would assume most RTF buyers do NOT have, as they just want to launch their drone and take video, which I totally understand.
Thanks so much for keeping us posted on this issue. I for one do not trust my TH at all, and have been experiencing all sorts of crappy and bizarre behavior from it (even with latest firmwares) that leads me to the conclusion that probably sooner than later, I will lose this thing once and for all (and then I'm finally done with this POS).
Sure, send an email to:Hey Captain can you send your telemetry file? I would like to take a look if thats ok
I will say that from now on, each time I fly the H, there will be a small part of me at the ready for when it misbehaves.
Thanks for that. I'll do a compass calibration before the next flight. Very odd though that the entire H was out of whack during the time of the flyaway, but then it fixed itself and came back safely with what appeared to be a working compass.I checked the numbers in your file. Something the error codes don't reveal at the times when you started and stopped the motors, are that your compass reading went from 57 to 337 degrees on motor start, and from 281 to 109 degrees on motor stop.
If all the motors and esc's are fine, which they seem to be, then the current draw should not affect the compass that much unless the is a problem with the compass. I havent opened up my H so not sure how its mounted but a wire may have shifted too close or the compass board itself may be loose, or it is simply faulty.
Of course this could also be some weird software thing......but I would start with the compass.
Cheers
Thank you Captain for your sharing, hope that the next firmware update allows the Aux button can be programmed to GPS off mode, so that in your case we can immediately switch to non GPS mode to gain controlI think the H may confuse where it is vs where it wants to be. With the old firmware switching back into GPS could cause a sudden flyaway but once it got where it wanted to be it was solid. Look at 6:25 in this video.
I have a few questions for all those that have experienced a fly away. Both have to do with soft/firmware updates. I'm trying to determine if there is any commonality between them aside from a fly away.
How many experienced a fly away after a firmware update?
How many experienced a flyaway after a firmware update was released, but that update was not performed?
How many experienced a fly away out of the box and what firmware version was installed?
Has anyone experienced a fly away that had updated some firmware, skipped an update, and recently updated to the latest firmware, without previously installing all the earlier updates?
For those that have experienced a fly away, what OS and anti virus programs are you using? For me that's Win10 and AVG.
I'm two updates behind but I'll be installing the earlier update before installing the latest in case the code builds on each previous update.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A quick and dirty way to determine if there may be ferrous material under your takeoff point is to use the compass feature of your phone (my iPhone has this app, I assume Android does too?). Stand somewhere away from metal structures and look at your compass. Now, set your phone on your takeoff spot oriented exactly the same way and see if the compass goes bonkers or not.I wonder how much ferrous material is buried under the takeoff point on the road. I did two tests a few months back with the P4 on a granite plate at work in the lab. Observe the compass interference graphs with the P4 on the granite plate compared to the floor. I didn't use a Gauss meter but am sure it would bend the needle.
It doesn't take much to throw off the compass; even a magnetized screw nearby on the board can wreak havoc, and why I always use non-magnetic SS screws or plastic as required for my copters.
That would be nice. I had a look at the AUX button. It appears to be designed as a non-latch mode button. In other words, it only provides a signal when held down (like the engine start/stop button), which could be again used for something in an emergency.Thank you Captain for your sharing, hope that the next firmware update allows the Aux button can be programmed to GPS off mode, so that in your case we can immediately switch to non GPS mode to gain control
This 4th battery was used 20 minutes after the 3rd, so heat would not be an issue.In your case it this cause by the heat and affect the circuit board causing out of control because this is the fourth batteries that your are flying.
I wonder how much ferrous material is buried under the takeoff point on the road. I did two tests a few months back with the P4 on a granite plate at work in the lab. Observe the compass interference graphs with the P4 on the granite plate compared to the floor. I didn't use a Gauss meter but am sure it would bend the needle.
It doesn't take much to throw off the compass; even a magnetized screw nearby on the board can wreak havoc, and why I always use non-magnetic SS screws or plastic as required for my copters.
I hope that i'll never know a "fly away" but thanks to your "experience" the first thing i'll do is trying to switch gps off. Thanks for sharing Captain.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.